I replaced my wife's Coolant Temp Sensor and now it's not working again
#1
I replaced my wife's Coolant Temp Sensor and now it's not working again
Okay --
My wife owns a R56 2013 Mini Cooper Base Coupe. She had P173B and P0128 CEL codes. I went to menu 7 and saw CTMP-MOM read *** so I figured it had to be the sensor. No problem. I went to Mini and bought an OEM sensor and replaced it.
It's been about two weeks and the check engine light is back on and CTMP-MOM is reading - *** again.
I'm wondering if anyone else has replaced this sensor and within a couple of weeks ran into the same problem.
Is there another underlying issue that could be shorting the sensor? Maybe it was just a faulty sensor? I'm not sure. Looking for advice!
She did drive for a day or two without the coolant expansion tank cap on. Could that have caused damage to the sensor? Thanks!
My wife owns a R56 2013 Mini Cooper Base Coupe. She had P173B and P0128 CEL codes. I went to menu 7 and saw CTMP-MOM read *** so I figured it had to be the sensor. No problem. I went to Mini and bought an OEM sensor and replaced it.
It's been about two weeks and the check engine light is back on and CTMP-MOM is reading - *** again.
I'm wondering if anyone else has replaced this sensor and within a couple of weeks ran into the same problem.
Is there another underlying issue that could be shorting the sensor? Maybe it was just a faulty sensor? I'm not sure. Looking for advice!
She did drive for a day or two without the coolant expansion tank cap on. Could that have caused damage to the sensor? Thanks!
#2
#3
If it hasn't been too long since you had the temp sensor changed, I would just go back to Mini and have them deal with it. If the new temp sensor is faulty, they should replace it again no charge. If they say it is fine, then I would expect them to find the real cause and to factor in what they charged me for the temp sensor and the inconvenience caused.
#4
Yes, check with MINI and also check the plug side of the wire, these plugs can break apart or crack and then the pins lose contact.
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#5
If it hasn't been too long since you had the temp sensor changed, I would just go back to Mini and have them deal with it. If the new temp sensor is faulty, they should replace it again no charge. If they say it is fine, then I would expect them to find the real cause and to factor in what they charged me for the temp sensor and the inconvenience caused.
#7
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#8
Well, the temp sensor is pretty much at the highest point in the system. If there is any air trapped, it will likely stay there. And if the engine was not completely cold when you changed it, it most likely does need bleeding.
There is a plastic screw head right next to the temp sensor on the top side of the thermostat housing. Open it slowly and only a bit until some coolant comes out. Then run the engine and check whether the coolant level in the expansion tank retracts. If it does, repeat (and re-fill coolant if needed).
There is a plastic screw head right next to the temp sensor on the top side of the thermostat housing. Open it slowly and only a bit until some coolant comes out. Then run the engine and check whether the coolant level in the expansion tank retracts. If it does, repeat (and re-fill coolant if needed).
#9
Well, the temp sensor is pretty much at the highest point in the system. If there is any air trapped, it will likely stay there. And if the engine was not completely cold when you changed it, it most likely does need bleeding.
There is a plastic screw head right next to the temp sensor on the top side of the thermostat housing. Open it slowly and only a bit until some coolant comes out. Then run the engine and check whether the coolant level in the expansion tank retracts. If it does, repeat (and re-fill coolant if needed).
There is a plastic screw head right next to the temp sensor on the top side of the thermostat housing. Open it slowly and only a bit until some coolant comes out. Then run the engine and check whether the coolant level in the expansion tank retracts. If it does, repeat (and re-fill coolant if needed).
Does it need to be warm first? Or is this a bigger issue? Thanks for the help
#10
Is the coolant above the minimum mark? If so, coolant should come out even if the engine is cold. Did you open the expansion tank's lid?
Note: this is not to say that the cause for the mis-reading is potential air in the system. It may well be a wiring or electronic issue as suggested above. Either way, if there is any air inside, it needs to get out.
Note: this is not to say that the cause for the mis-reading is potential air in the system. It may well be a wiring or electronic issue as suggested above. Either way, if there is any air inside, it needs to get out.
#11
Is the coolant above the minimum mark? If so, coolant should come even if the engine is cold. Did you open the expansion tank's lid?
Note: this is not to say that the cause for the mis-reading is potential air in the system. It may well be a wiring or electronic issue as suggested above. Either way, if there is any air involved, it needs to get out.
Note: this is not to say that the cause for the mis-reading is potential air in the system. It may well be a wiring or electronic issue as suggested above. Either way, if there is any air involved, it needs to get out.
#12
#13
Alright, I'll try it out. Thanks!
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