Hi everyone, my first post and it's not a cheerful one :(

​​​​​My wife took my 2011 Mini Cooper S Convertible into the Mini dealer today because of electronics problems which I pretty much diagnosed to a faulty Footwell Module (FRM) this could be replaced for free under the recently extended FRM 10 year warranty.

However we also have spotted some oil on the garage floor so they took a look at that as well...

And found what they described as a major leak on cyclinder head plate.

They said they could do a unwarrantable kludge fix for $1000 or... Over $8000 for a cylinder head replacement.

The rest of the car is in good condition (always garaged at work and home) 66,000 miles.

I'm a little bit in shock about this bad news. What are my options people please?

I could a complete mini of same spec and age for not much more ....

Really appreciate any advice.

Thanks

Bill

Job Quote
ENGINE CONCERN IMMEDIATE ATTENTION
CYL HEAD SIDE PLATE LEAKING OIL 8,943.38
Qty Part Number Part Description Price Ext Price
1.00 11-12-7-634-077 CYLINDER HEAD W. IN
1.00 11-12-7-595-138 CYLINDER HEAD GASKE
1.00 11-12-7-560-274 SET BOLT CYLINDER H
1.00 11-12-7-582-400 SET OF PROFILE GASK
1.00 11-51-8-613-804 O-RING
1.00 11-51-8-613-803 PROFILE-GASKET
1.00 11-37-7-612-902 GASKET
1.00 11-37-8-662-525 SHAFT SEAL
2.00 11-36-7-534-776 O-RING
4.00 11-61-7-528-340 PROFILE-GASKET
1.00 11-65-7-557-013 SEAL
1.00 11-66-7-610-690 GASKET RING
4.00 13-64-7-600-869 SET OF SEALING AND
1.00 11-43-7-560-212 O-RING
2.00 11-36-7-507-729 O-RING
1.00 11-43-7-560-211 O-RING
1.00 11-12-7-634-960 O-RING SET
1.00 11-62-7-626-106 GASKET W/HEAT PROT.
10.00 11-62-7-588-104 HEX NUT WITH PLATE
2.00 07-11-9-905-973 HOLLOW BOLT
4.00 07-11-9-963-201 GASKET RING
1.00 11-65-7-534-454 OIL PIPE
2.00 07-11-9-905-176 HOLLOW BOLT
4.00 07-11-9-963-151 GASKET RING
1.00 11-65-8-617-069 RETURN PIPE
1.00 11-34-0-033-950 REPAIR KIT VALVE SE
2.00 11-36-7-536-087 TORX BOLT
1.00 18-30-7-589-503 FLAT GASKET
5.00 18-30-7-583-746 FLANGE NUT
3.00 18-30-7-598-251 STUD BOLT
1.00 18-30-2-756-352 CLAMP
1.00 11-42-7-622-446 SET OIL-FILTER ELEM
50.00 83-21-2-450-384 BMW GROUP LL-01 FE
1.00 82-14-0-031-133 ANTIFREEZE
Labor Hrs 2,520.00
Parts 5961.37
Misc
Tax 462.01
Total 8943.38

 

I would get it fixed ASAP if it's a major oil leak.

I would also try and get a second opinion diagnostic and costs to repair/replace from a trusted independent garage.

The kludge fix for $1000 is a risky option and $8000 for a cylinder head replacement seems expensive as you could rebuild the engine for not much more than that (I know most of that cost will be the MINI labour costs).

I do hope you find a reasonable solution.

 

I would ask rhem what caused the leak to form? Was the car overheated or abused in some way?

 

Personally, I would spend NO penny at the dealer because they are not trust worthy. now that's out of the way, don't panic. when the car gets back home, make sure your oil is kept up with. Not sure how often you change the oil, but it should be no more than 5k miles interval. next, pop the hood and look around the valve cover. can you see where the oil is leaking from or which side? also, you could take the car to another shop for a second opinion. wash your hands from the dealer as nothing good comes out of them.

for added comfort, I have a friend whose car developed a knock. he took it to the dealer and another "reputable" shop and was told he had a spun bearing. they recommended an engine replacement. his car was a 2011 hardtop S. after connecting with him on this forum, he brought the car to me to check it out. long story short, I found his serpentine belt was chipped and was making a "knock" sound. a $10 part fixed his "spun bearing' issue..lol Ridiculous!

All I'm saying is, get second opinions and do some digging yourself or with family or friends if you're not comfortable with cars.

 

As MTB says, avoid the dealerships. Head gasket is not a common fault in my humble opinion. There are several common leaks to check for before condemning an engine (that are a lot cheaper to fix).

 

I have been really happy with work done by GT Peace Automotive, northern virginia. Like them, a shop that caters to MINIs, should give you a better estimate for what's wrong and how to get you back on the road safely.

 

I'm with MiniToBe and Scudder. Avoid the dealer and find a reputable independent if you can. Try to spray the engine down with brake clean and isolate where the oil is coming from. It should give you a better idea of what is going on. There are lots of common places for these engines to leak and they all will sooner or later without monitoring.

 

What did you end up doing? I'd clean that engine with the gel type brake kleen and isolate it like @Jakomcbean said and replace that one part.. if you are up to the challenge... or empty your wallet ..

 

You have to look at how mechanics are compensated at the dealership. Many get paid if they have work to do on a flat rate basis. The system encourages them to find work from your car.

 

Was the flux capacitor bad as well? Heard that one runs major bucks in a Gen 2...

Gosh, I wonder if they might have hinted to her she should consider trading the car in on a new Mini or BMW in the showroom just across the parking lot...

+1. Or keep coming here until you find the answers on how to do it yourself. Guaranteed even the most expensive tools and diagnostic equipment will not add up to the wallet rape the dealer has planned for you.

 

Thanks for posting this, mine was making a hedious bottom end noise, just like big ends, was about to drop the sump and start digging around inside and saw this post. Mine was also the drive belt coming apart, and you could not see it without taking the arch liner out etc, saved me a stack of oily work, many thanks