Hello all. I posted a month or so ago on whether to tear into the bottom end after having a timing chain snap. I’ve tote everything done rebuilt the head and I’m now ready to start putting together the short block.
I went with King bearings in a standard size after seeing what the OEM ones ran. The block nor rods needed machining.
I’ve purchased all new OEM rod, main and bed plate bolts.
I plan on double checking the clearances using the new TIF info and plasti gauge .
Do you think I can torque everything down using the old bolts(and specs) with the new bearings to check clearances and then install all the new hardware on final assembly?

Thanks
John

 

Been a lot of years since I rebuilt an engine but that is the way I recall doing it. Plastigauge and use the old main bolts to tighten the main caps to the required torque values to check the main bearing clearances and old rod bolts to do the same for the rod caps to check the rod bearings.

I can't recall now if I replaced the main and rod bolts. If I replaced any bolts it was probably the rod bolts.(And in one case I remember replacing the head bolts. If these are torque to yield they should not be reused.

'course, if you have info the main bolts should be replaced by all means adhere to that. Do not think these get magnafluxed but they can be checked via ultrasonic testing to ensure they are good. For what to do I either relied upon factory service/repair manuals I obtained from the automaker or from a reputable engine machine shop where I'd take the block and heads to be hot tanked (cast iron only; not for aluminum!) and have the crank, rods, and main caps magnafluxed.

 

Thanks Rock C!! I was hoping for that answer.

John