Yay...Good job bro.

 

Well continued to work on the old girl since this, while i was doing the timing, noticed the water pump pulley was looking a bit rough, didn't think much of it, but ordered one in for sake of having it, a couple weeks after the car was back I had a knocking sound from the right front wheel well, gut instantly says, water pump pulley... swaped it on Wednesday, bam sound gone, back to A1.... save a code that started a bit ago, cant remember the exact code number, but it is the thermostat needs replacing "Coolant temperature below expected temperature service if performance issues are noticed"... well no performance issue. But i'm not gonna wait for one, I have the thermostat, but doing research decided to replace the water pump to thermostat pipe also. Pipe is on order, gonna get the correct coolant, so bing bang the old girl will be almost new... already done a pile of work to it prior to this.

 

did you ever solve the issue or figure it out? I’m having the same issue with my mini and the same 3 codes popped up. I had been driving my mini as a daily commuter and then I stopped driving it for 3 months. Just started to drive it a few days ago and noticed it drives fine and I don’t notice anything different except the speedometer doesn’t work and there’s no illumination on the dash or gas gauge.

 

I did, my DME/ECU was busted, it had shorted when i had charged my battery during the work, I had to buy a used numbers matching one, send it along with my CAS, and Keys to PrecissionECU and have them code the new(used)dme for me.

 

I’m battling these two codes after doing a valve cover, I too cooked my ECU and ordered a new one car starts but the pedal isn’t adding throttle and I’m getting the same two codes. Early in the process I tried swapping my relays as they were of two types with the same part numbers.

I’m praying my problem is similar to yours but I can’t see any way in which my relays are different.

How did you ID the relays were incorrectly placed?

Did you have the same issue with the pedal not working when it coded?

When you replugged in the DME after you replaced the pressure sensor did you try a start or go right to the relays?

 

@aowolf sorry for the late response....
Mine had unique configuration on the internals and didn't share a part number thus were not interchangeable, they look exactly the same, but operate on a different pin configuration.
I pulled up the wiring schematics for my mini, I can snap a picture tonight as the car is in my shop due to trusting a parts store to get the correct belt ... 3 times in a row... i will write that all up in a minute.

I had no issues with the pedal no, when i initially plugged it in with the relays incorrect I immediately got the fuel pressure sensor code, but had limp mode and could drive if needed (shuffled it in and out of the shop a couple times before diving into it) I swapped the sensor but that did nothing for me as mentioned it ended up being my relay. I worked systematically when doing it testing along the way.

So when i hooked up the new sensor, even with the air box off and the intake out I still put the car to the "on" position (engine not running) to pull and clear codes... this was how i was able to determine it wasn't the sensor as this didn't provide any progress. (obviously it threw a pile of codes as I had a bunch of sensors all unhooked but the one i was looking for was still there), next when i was beyond frustrated and combing over electrical diagrams I just happened on the relay, and was back tracing it, when i found the relay was in the incorrect spot, swapped it and code was gone. so put her back together and off to the races.

Now to the most recent adventure. While doing my timing chain and belt and water pulley I trusted a parts store to source me the correct belt.... so I installed their belt, it failed after about 6k km... just cut into pieces, fine, so i called and got another one, a different one.. was a bit concerned as to why this one was different, figured oh well its a brand thing... So installed the new belt, car worked great until last friday, driving home from work get engine temp light, pull off check coolant, real low... steam in engine bay, coolant sprayed all over driver-side of engine... Pour in a bottle of water i had just to try and get home, after sitting 20mins start the car, drive 5minutes, coolant light followed immediately by oil light... first thought is ... **** Head gasket... stop call buddy tows me home. Put the car up on the ramps, start investigating, all the collant has left through the Thermostat housing... okay so the housing broke, so luckly i had a spare around, swapped it out on saturday, figured i best check the oil since im under there. Drop the oil out, looks great no milkyness, grab my magnet (i check my oil every time for filings) check for metal in the oil nothing! couldn't be happier. whilst under there i check on my belt, low and behold its been cut down to 1/3 of its size, missing the friction wheel all together thus water pump wasn't running...
So I order a new belt from the same parts store, after giving them the part number from RealOEM.com (part number for reference for the belt for an N14 turbo is 6pk905 or 6pk906). They bring it in for me... guy hands me the 6pk900... i give it back explain that this belt just cost me 600$ and tell him that its the wrong one, after arguing with them with them stating the one im looking for doesn't exist, I go home and order it from Rockauto.com .... its scheduled to be here 6 days after ordering. Lets hope this ends my headach for a while!

 

Last time I rebuilt my engine, a Sep '07 R56, the numbers on my belt corresponded to this Dayco catalog listing. Since I removed the A/C, I needed a shorter belt, so I used the listed Dayco specs to ensure a correct fit. Couldn't find a Dayco listing for the 6PK0905 or 6PK0906, and the listings I could find were different mfg's and didn't list specs, only Mini part numbers. Only the 6PK0906 agrees with the RealOEM 11287566789. So, if your next belt gives you grief, consider this one.


As a side note, I found some spark plugs are only available in certain countries. Other countries use a different part number for a similar plug. Maybe the same holds true for accessory belts? Manufacturers instead of countries, or both? Both of my ~905 and ~906 #'s came up with foreign sources, and my OEM belt was replaced by a USA Mini dealer several years ago.

 

More Information for CONTITECH 6K906 (rockauto.com)
this is the belt i have ordered. after looking on Realoem.

 

Well part arrived on Tuesday, so I went to town, got the old belt cut off, and low and behold one of bolts for the friction pulley mount had backed right out, luckly no damage to the water pump pulley, that i replaced 3k km ago, or to the friction wheel. Thus bolts on order from ECS and just to get another thing outta the mix I've also got a new rear wiper arm coming in. (mine slips) Fingers crossed we will be fixed.!!!

Should rename this to my Mini Adventure!

 

Low and behold 10 months later, the transmission bought the farm so this old girl is parked for now, trying to determine if I should repair or part out at this point.

So I went and got a new mini Countryman All4

 

I bought a used 2007 mini cooper s r56 n14 and it showed the codes U114B, U115B, U115E, U3FFF, but unlike your car it starts, but it has a bunch of errors on dash and cannot connect ob and has no tachometer reading.