Good day, (I posted this originally in the wrong place and am now posting it here, sorry forum gods).

Start with the back story.
I have a 2007 Mini Cooper S (R56, N14) sitting at 250,000 km on it.
I am the second owner and have put on 50k km almost worry free. (replaced 2 hub assemblies as soon as they started sounding off)

About a month ago I noticed a weird sound under the hood, so I popped it and listened found that the noise was clearly the timing chain. Parked the car and started researching and getting quotes. Dealer wanted 4,500$, local shop wanted 2,500$ and that was minimum. So I got looking found the parts and the special tools to do the job.

Jumping a head to the job.
I followed the instructions and got it torn down. (damn that crank shaft bolt is nerve racking), decided it was best to drop the oil pan and confirm all was good there an no debris, as it had been 250k and I don't know what all was done prior. (oil pan had clearly been removed prior easily noticeable once removed.) Cleaned and reinstalled after looking around for unusual sights. (nothing)
Reinstalled the timing chain following the directions. (installed intake and exhaust cam sprockets loose, installed crank sprocket and bolt (using crankshaft holder tool), confirmed all locks had remained, tightened intake and exhaust cam sprockets. Hand cranked the engine (socket on crank) 4 full rotations (2 on cam) checked timing. (re insert tool then cam locks) confirm all fit. I repeated this 4 times to ensure it was right.
I reassembled engine 100%. Filled oil to appropriate level!

Started engine, started no issue, small puff of smoke, but expect to be from a couple drops of oil I spilled into a plug hole when filling the cam chamber for oil, as I did this prior to final rotation so I could coat all sprockets and cams by hand prior to engine running.
Shut it off and waited 5mins and started again, no problem, did notice battery seemed weak so after I shut it off I hooked it up while I reinstalled wheel liners, and hood latchs (etc).
couple hours later, went to start it for a test drive and just keeps cranking, no sputtering nothing.

First thought, there goes my timing. I pull valve cover, put in crank lock and then cam locks.... They line up perfectly. (no misalignment at all)
So I put it back together, and recheck my connections, Ground on engine mount is attached, Cam Sensor Attached, Air flow sensor attached, all appear to be connected correctly.

Took out code reader, pulled codes

• U114B - Lost communication with Engine Control Torque 1
• U115B - Lost communication with Engine Control Torque 3
• U115E - Lost communication with Engine Data

Tests completed and trouble shooting I have done

• Check fuses for continuity (no issues)
• Remove test and reinstall Crank sensor (no issues)
• Check Relays for action (audible click when provided power)
• Cleared codes immediately come back
• Unhook battery 24hours hook up, codes come back
• Checked all connections at ECU appear fine.

Planned checks tonight

• Confirm ECU Ground,
• Confirm again All grounds on engine
• Confirm continuity for all grounds to negative terminal of battery (should be a no brainer but gotta rule everything out)
• Check power supply wire to ECU

I am running out of ideas, and there is very limited information pertaining to these error codes short of the generic dealer suggestions of "go to a dealer". I have a mid-low range reader, and it pulls up all other codes ive ever had, but this one is a generic one across not only mini but ford also.
I need some ideas for testing and confirming ECU is or is not the issue before I bite onto the 500-1500$ Big one of a new ECU... or scrapping the poor mini. which would be terrible.

Suggestions, Experiences and guidance are much appreciated.!

 

ECU is very sensitive to battery voltage. It compensates for aging, so when you recharge it, there is a "registration" process that might need to be performed, especially if you have the "IBS" (Intelligent Battery System???, I forgot and too lazy to look it up) feature. If you have this IBS, there will be a small "module" at the battery ground connection. Note the difference between items 1 and 4 on the attached chart.

Hopefully you had the battery disconnected during the recharge process. Best of luck ---

 

this video shows the dash warning lights in conjunction with the codes I pulled.

Tested all engine grounds today.
Pulled all fuses and confirmed good.

 

Spoke to my local mini service experts (they focus on mini, bmw, Mercedes) and they are saying it sounds like its a problem with one of the "busses" and want 500$ to tow it, 100$ to hook up the tool and an hr labour(100$) just to hook up their tools. so we are 700$ before I even get the car to them, when it is likely something much smaller issue.

Does someone have a "map" of bus locations for the 07 mini. Or anything that may help we find and repair this error.

Or perhaps a software for computer that can read all the hidden bmw codes or something to help reduce the size of the search.
Thanks.

 

Not making any progress to speak of, but still ruling things out.

No spark at plugs, no gas smell in cylinders
New spark plugs (Numbers matching OEM (30$ cdn each... ouchy)
Crank sensor is working 100%.
ECU is getting power through terminal 1 as intended.
Fuse is good, relay is good.
Power to coils on terminal 3 as intended.

Gonna pickup a battery next week (getting a good one brought in) to ensure the battery (which i know isn't great) isn't the cause for the computer hiccups (as it is stated this can cause all kinds of problems).

Still looking for ideas and or suggestions.

 

There are places that will test your ECU for a reasonable price.

I have heard of other people finding a relay built into the fuse block was defective, so FYI there.

Sounds like your shop didn't want to work on it at all!

 

$500.00 to tow it?? Is this shop across the country? That's outrageous. Honestly, it sounds to me like you may have a dead ECU if you're not getting fuel or spark. I wish I could be more help. Fingers crossed on finding a battery issue. Where are you located? I have a scanner that can get BMW codes, but deciphering them might be difficult

Neil M.

 

Got a trailer coming to pick up the car next week to take it to the shop (case of beer, so saved some money here) Shop can test and reprogram the ECU at their location.
100$ use their computer 100$ for the guy to do the test, so im 200$ before they even start.... I really think these guys are exploiting the fact they are the only ones around that can do this stuff.

 

Its been a while, but the car got moved to my local mini specialist and it is confirmed that the DME is fried, thus I have spoken to RPM motorsports but after some looking into them I am a bit nervous sending my CAS, new DME and 2 keys to the car across the country to an address that shows up as a Country Club in Victoria BC.

I have found WINKFP along with a few other programs that seem user friendly, just have never played with this in depth into car programming. (good at turning a wrench but computer and electrical stuff is intimidating) Anyone have experience with programing a used DME (that superceds my old one) with a new vin number, then matching the CAS and keys to it? I have been following a few topics a bit and see others have had luck and some have failed. I would gladly send the necessary parts to RPM but am a bit nervous sending some many key components so far.

 

I replied to your PM.

 

I will be having the car brought home to remove the CAS and will be shipping CAS, new DME, and keys to PrecisionECU. Nice to talk to someone on the other end that understood the concerns about shipping parts especially ones that are so expensive so far.

Thank you for the recommendation and advice minitobe.

 

Well CAS is out, what a pain in the butt that was, as only instructions I can find were of people demoing scrap cars for information.
Patience and a cold beer later the dash is out (note on this, you gotta remove the passenger airbag with the dash to remove the entire thing, least this is how I had my success without destroying anything).

Either way, CAS, DME, and 1 of my 2 keys are scheduled to ship this week to precisionECU.

Next question, while tinkering found out the battery in my second key is dead, why in the world did mini make it so the battery cant be replaced in these keys? mine is soldered into place, so im looking into a "ebay" key that I can have my local mini experts program up. Anyone had success or issues with these before? or have recommendations?

 

Well got the DME, CAS and my Key back, reinstalled into the car, confirmed my work and turn it over, Fired up. GREAT! then a short while (15seconds) after I got 2 codes.

P0697 - Sensor Reference Voltage C Circuit/open
P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor

Seems odd as these codes have never been present before. From what I have read the P0697 points to the DME, and P0190 to the fuel rail sensors (fuel rail was never accessed or even approached on any of the previous work).

My inclination is that the Fuel Rail Sensor wiring accesses the new DME through a different terminal number then the hold one, or the DME isn't recognizing the sensor. I have reached out to Precision ECU for their thoughts as they did the DME work for me, but am curious if any others have encountered this issue before. I let it run a few moments and cleared the code only to see it come back the next start up. Car had a rough idle, and was clearly in limp mode (half yellow service engine light), Zero other warning lights.

Would appreciate Thoughts and suggestions. @MiniToBe

 

Hey brother....good thing it started. I remember having something like this and i think the donor ecu was from a front end damaged mini. I'd say, disconnect the fuel rail sensor and see what new codes come back.

 

Well @MiniToBe Got the intake off enough to get the fuel rail sensor, got it disconnected cleared codes and then turned ignition to the on position to refresh codes... got the P0190 (sensor code) but not the open circuit, thought okay maybe its a fluke, hooked the sensor back up, cleared codes and refreshed, got both the p0190, and p0697.... So again i unhooked the sensor, cleared the codes and pulled new codes, P0190... so, this is making me wonder if i have a short in the sensor, or the return wire to the DME... potentially not going to the right pin for the new model DME.

Thoughts?

 

Just to be sure, both ecus are the same part number, right?

is it possible to replace the sensor?

also, if you want, I could test your set on my car if you dont want to spend money chasing parts

 

They are not the same part number as i want able to find a numbers matching. That being said mine was superceded by this new one.


I have attached the info.
My old is in red new in black, precision confirmed they were comparable and so did the mini dealer as they were gonna bring me in the one circles on black.

 

Ok, so the donor car is the same as yours in terms of being turbo charged. I don't think there would be a pin mismatch. It is possible that the sensor got damaged some how and coincidentally the ecu got damaged. You could unplug the ecu and the fuel rail sensor and check for shorts. It is uncommon for the sensor to go bad, but it happened to me on my 2011 countryman N18.

Lastly, did you confirm the donor car wasn't involved in a severe front end collision?

 

when I was working on the timing I noticed that stupid whimpy pvc pipe for the vacuum line so I swapped that out for the Flexline "update". So might of damaged a wire in there somehow... got some instructions from precision I am working through also.

(I have the vin number from the other car never thought to check it but precision assured me that they were from the same car, I asked them to ensure it was a automatic w turbo programed into new ECU, I suspect I may have a wire that might be damaged from the hose swap... gonna run through that tonight, but its a hard spot to reach, not sure at this time.)

 

Understood. You might want to consider removing the intake manifold to better access that area. In the meantime order the sensor.

Forgot to mention, check the pins on the ecu to make sure non is bent. Happened to me once lol.

 

I did have a look at the ECU pins lastnight and they looked all good. I removed enough of the intake to get my hand down to unhook the sensor but gonna need to get it completely out I guess to swap the sensor as there isn't quite enough room to work. Will watch and read up some more on removing the intake as it is a PIA to deal with from what I learnt last night. And I am gonna get a new sensor... not gonna frig about testing, when the easiest is to just swap it out, if swap works A1... if not then I know its wiring or ECU.

 

Went at the car today to get the fuel pressure regulator off the fuel rail, was successful after some contortionist moves to get to a few of those bolts (what a stupid place for those btw). Got the sensor removed, looks fine has some purple around the head of the sensor but otherwise seems fine.

I am going to order a replacement as that is the only way to 100% guarantee that it is not the issue. Only problem I am having is that I cant find the damn part number on RealOEM at all below image shows where it connects and shows the darn thing but doesn't identify it.

Lo

Looking at the sensor i see some numbers
V7540439 80-05
6ph2001
24-02-07 09s (this seems to be the date of manufacture)

I was able to find it of course on amazon by looking up the V7540438 number, but never like buying parts from there, hopefully when the car shops open on Monday, I will be able to get one brought in for me quickly.

Should this not be the issue, where should i look next?

 

RealOEM part numbers have apparently been moved down significantly on the screen --- scroll down from the illustration and you'll find them. However, I question if you really want the PN of the bracket you have highlited in yellow? Is the sensor you refer to item 10 found on intake manifold (part of the engine, not fuel system) or one of the other items on realoem's fuel system?

 

I'm looking for the part that connects to number 13... which is the sensor wire.
and I cant find it on any schematic... been through so many lately... by time I'm done I'll be able to handle any job on this car!

 

Well the girl is running like a top!

Went and got the sensor, swapped it...no change... so I went and tested continuity from sensor wire to dme connector... tested good...hmmm put original sensor back in the car, re hooked up the dme... said screw it let's check the relays... got looking and noticed 2 were in wrong spot... frick, who the heck did that??? Garage... never trust work by someone else folks... put the relays back in the correct spots and bam codes all clear and stay cleared.
now the mini runs better then ever.

Oh and while I was at the salvage yard, pickedup a new sunroof motor (mine was stripped). Got both exterior Aframe covers (mine had a chip and a crack from rocks) got the trunk thing that hides ur stuff... and an armrest all for 60$ including the sensor.