Hey Guys,
Let me describe my Struggle.

I have bought a 2013 MCS manual with a dead engine, from an online Auction.
Than I swapped the engine from 2013 Mini Countryman S, with automatic gearbox into my MCS.

I left my old ecu and harness untouched. just replaced the engine.
(but some sensors, like knock sensor, camshafts sensors e.t.c. are from a Countryman)


So from the day first, I have a problem :
car revs pretty normal until ~ 3800 (while moving) and then RPMs start bouncing. It feels like i'm hitting the redline, but I'm only at 3800RPM.
it doesn't matter if i push WOT or just 10% of throttle. it bounces every time when RPM gets to ~3800.
but if I keep pushing it at ~3800RPM for about 3-4 seconds, it will jerk untill 4200rpm and after the 4200RPM car revs pretty happy and
RPM will increase till the actual redline ~7000.


After testing it on OBDII scanner (launch) there are two problems, (1. Bad Oxygen Sensor, 2. My thermostat is dead)
I think that neither of them can cause - what I described before.

1.Spark Plugs are brand new.
2.Ignition coils are OK.
3. HPFP works Great.
4. No Boost Leak.
5. Turbocharger is in Great condition.
6. Boost is about 12-17PSI it depends on conditions.
7.ARF is good.

The car is BONE Stock.


any suggestions guys ?


Sorry for my bad English.

 

just for sanity, did you check the compression? how is the timing chain condition, has it been replaced or serviced? Maybe the stock ECU was tuned or messed with hence the initial issue or the cause of the issue.

 

No, but engine Idles like charm, i don't thing that's the issue. But I'm going to check it.

Nothing Wrong with it. there are no codes for chain or vanos.


​​​​​​​So you think that My ECU was tuned or may be reset by the previous owner and that's why ECU thinks that it manages engine with an automatic trans ?
Did I get it right ?

 

The engine itself is the same on the manual and the auto. But the N18 comes in 2 variations; 1 with bosch high pressure fuel pump and the other with continental hpfp. Were those the same? If so, maybe you need to reset the adaptation.

What I meant earlier was whether the ecu was tuned and those add-ons were removed/swapped prior to the auction. Lastly, what damage did the car have?

 

No they are 100% the same.


How can I reset the adaptation ?

 

You need something like ISTAD or similar software to do that. Pulling the relay won't work.