Mini r56 cranks, but won't start, "no communication possible with engine electronics"
#1
Mini r56 cranks, but won't start, "no communication possible with engine electronics"
Hi all,
Thanks for reading my post.
I have a Mini Cooper S R56 year 2010.
I replaced valve cover (bad CCV), and during the work, grounding wire that attaches to valve cover stud broke off.
The car cranks, but won't start. Throwing U114B U115B U115E codes.
I fixed the grounding wire. reset all the codes in all the modules through ISTA (Rheingold). Disconnected the battery for a few minutes.
Now all the modules work, except the DME is not responding, I get the following errors:
S 0129 "no communication possible with engine electronics"
00D515 "No message DME-DDE, receiver EPS, transmitter DME-DDE"
Did I fry by DME ?
How can I troubleshoot/fix it?
I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. Does anyone have leads to getting the pinout of the DME?
I would very much appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks!
Thanks for reading my post.
I have a Mini Cooper S R56 year 2010.
I replaced valve cover (bad CCV), and during the work, grounding wire that attaches to valve cover stud broke off.
The car cranks, but won't start. Throwing U114B U115B U115E codes.
I fixed the grounding wire. reset all the codes in all the modules through ISTA (Rheingold). Disconnected the battery for a few minutes.
Now all the modules work, except the DME is not responding, I get the following errors:
S 0129 "no communication possible with engine electronics"
00D515 "No message DME-DDE, receiver EPS, transmitter DME-DDE"
Did I fry by DME ?
How can I troubleshoot/fix it?
I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. Does anyone have leads to getting the pinout of the DME?
I would very much appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks!
#3
Check this out, It might be corrosion on the connectors which exit the fuse distribution module.
Have you ever noticed damp carpet on the passenger floor area?
remove the carpet and if you see moisture on the floor pan, you likely have corrosion on bottom connectors.
This allows the car to crank over, but no spark, it’s as if the key fob does not read.
do you see icon with key crossed out?
Have you ever noticed damp carpet on the passenger floor area?
remove the carpet and if you see moisture on the floor pan, you likely have corrosion on bottom connectors.
This allows the car to crank over, but no spark, it’s as if the key fob does not read.
do you see icon with key crossed out?
The following users liked this post:
minioleg (04-06-2020)
#4
Thanks, MiniToBe, and Snix_jcw for your suggestions!
Further troubleshooting and this is how far I got:
I bought an ECU from a junk yard. Plugged it in, and it works and responds on CAN bus. So the problem is clearly in my fried ECU.
I opened up both units and tried to use KTAG interface to copy the info from one to the other. My ECU is dead and doesn't respond.
I resoldered the EEPROM from mine to the Junk Yard ECU and now KTAG can read my EEPROM data from it fine.
The part that I can't figure out how to do, is to write my VIN into the Infineon TC1766 and also to write the ISN number into it.
If my ECU is dead, can I use JTAG to read this ISN info from the microcontroller directly? If not, where else can I get it?
Thanks!
Further troubleshooting and this is how far I got:
I bought an ECU from a junk yard. Plugged it in, and it works and responds on CAN bus. So the problem is clearly in my fried ECU.
I opened up both units and tried to use KTAG interface to copy the info from one to the other. My ECU is dead and doesn't respond.
I resoldered the EEPROM from mine to the Junk Yard ECU and now KTAG can read my EEPROM data from it fine.
The part that I can't figure out how to do, is to write my VIN into the Infineon TC1766 and also to write the ISN number into it.
If my ECU is dead, can I use JTAG to read this ISN info from the microcontroller directly? If not, where else can I get it?
Thanks!
#6
I didn't try to crank yet.
After re-soldering over the EEPROM, I plugged the donor ECU back in the car and queried codes with ISTA to make sure the ECU is alive.
It was responding well and threw a code: "002FD7 DME: EWS anti-tempering protection".
I was afraid to have ISN go out of sync between EWS and my now dead ECU, so I didn't try to crank, with hopes that maybe JTAG would be able to recover some data and ISN from fried microcontroller.
I also noticed that the VIN number was still wrong (from the donor car), which made me hesitant trying to crank.
Does you guys have any pointers of what areas of EEPROM store what data?
Is VIN in EEPROM or in the microcontroller?
How about ISN?
Thanks so much for responding and helping!
After re-soldering over the EEPROM, I plugged the donor ECU back in the car and queried codes with ISTA to make sure the ECU is alive.
It was responding well and threw a code: "002FD7 DME: EWS anti-tempering protection".
I was afraid to have ISN go out of sync between EWS and my now dead ECU, so I didn't try to crank, with hopes that maybe JTAG would be able to recover some data and ISN from fried microcontroller.
I also noticed that the VIN number was still wrong (from the donor car), which made me hesitant trying to crank.
Does you guys have any pointers of what areas of EEPROM store what data?
Is VIN in EEPROM or in the microcontroller?
How about ISN?
Thanks so much for responding and helping!
#7
Oh ok. since you have the anti tampering code, it wont start. If I remember correctly, the short VIN is in the eeprom and the long vin is in the maps/flash file. The ISN is in the flash/maps files. I spent few years trying to figure out a way to marry a donor ECU to the original CAS and have yet to succeed. I know of one tool that does it but is well over $3500. you could reach out to RPM or precisionecu@gmail.com (Andy) to marry them. at the time, he used to charge $250. reach out to him and see how he can help.
back to my quest, even if you locate the ISN, it is not just copy and paste, there are few other numbers that need to be copied over and they located in two different sectors...
back to my quest, even if you locate the ISN, it is not just copy and paste, there are few other numbers that need to be copied over and they located in two different sectors...
The following users liked this post:
minioleg (04-07-2020)
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#8
Thanks, MiniToBe!
I saw his service, and spoke with him on the phone a couple of times. He can clone an ECU if it's alive, but if it's dead, then his service requires removal of CAS, which is unfortunately a major pita. 6 hour disassembly of dashboard, and 6 hour re-assembly. At that amount of unexciting labor, dealer's rate for a new ECU starts looking not so bad :(
Is there a way for me to read out the info from my CAS and send it to Andy without the disassembly?
Edit:
I didn't talk to Andy, it was RPM Motorsport. I'll talk to Andy as well. Thanks!
I saw his service, and spoke with him on the phone a couple of times. He can clone an ECU if it's alive, but if it's dead, then his service requires removal of CAS, which is unfortunately a major pita. 6 hour disassembly of dashboard, and 6 hour re-assembly. At that amount of unexciting labor, dealer's rate for a new ECU starts looking not so bad :(
Is there a way for me to read out the info from my CAS and send it to Andy without the disassembly?
Edit:
I didn't talk to Andy, it was RPM Motorsport. I'll talk to Andy as well. Thanks!
#9
The Dash removal takes about an hour or 1.5hr really. I just removed mine last week. you do not need to remove the radio and the controllers or the glove box but the secret compartment would need to come off. When I was doing the N18 Swap on my 08 Clubman, I asked him if I can only send him the CAS eeprom file, he didn't want me to send it. he wanted the whole CAS because it was encrypted and maybe he has a set up to plug the CAS and ECU with KEY to read and write the ISN from the Donor ECU to the original CAS and then reset the "working hours/sync" them.
Removing the dash is really straight forward. start from one side and move the next. remove the trim and speedo to make it easy/more room to slide and lift the dash. for the vent screws, I used a small T20 bit with small vice grip and slowly worked it out.
Removing the dash is really straight forward. start from one side and move the next. remove the trim and speedo to make it easy/more room to slide and lift the dash. for the vent screws, I used a small T20 bit with small vice grip and slowly worked it out.
Last edited by MiniToBe; 04-07-2020 at 01:13 PM.
#10
Hi all,
Thanks for reading my post.
I have a Mini Cooper S R56 year 2010.
I replaced valve cover (bad CCV), and during the work, grounding wire that attaches to valve cover stud broke off.
The car cranks, but won't start. Throwing U114B U115B U115E codes.
I fixed the grounding wire. reset all the codes in all the modules through ISTA (Rheingold). Disconnected the battery for a few minutes.
Now all the modules work, except the DME is not responding, I get the following errors:
S 0129 "no communication possible with engine electronics"
00D515 "No message DME-DDE, receiver EPS, transmitter DME-DDE"
Did I fry by DME ?
How can I troubleshoot/fix it?
I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. Does anyone have leads to getting the pinout of the DME?
I would very much appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks!
Thanks for reading my post.
I have a Mini Cooper S R56 year 2010.
I replaced valve cover (bad CCV), and during the work, grounding wire that attaches to valve cover stud broke off.
The car cranks, but won't start. Throwing U114B U115B U115E codes.
I fixed the grounding wire. reset all the codes in all the modules through ISTA (Rheingold). Disconnected the battery for a few minutes.
Now all the modules work, except the DME is not responding, I get the following errors:
S 0129 "no communication possible with engine electronics"
00D515 "No message DME-DDE, receiver EPS, transmitter DME-DDE"
Did I fry by DME ?
How can I troubleshoot/fix it?
I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope. Does anyone have leads to getting the pinout of the DME?
I would very much appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks!
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