Well this part definitely needs to be fixed. I can't fill the system with coolant until it is fixed. All fluid based systems are first pressure checked with air. The idea is that if the air can't escape, there is no way the water, refrigerant, oil or any other material can. The bleeder screw is an "open hole". I don't have one so there is no way anything is coming out out that.

Once the top part of the coolant system will hold air, it will force the coolant out of any other holes below that at 15psi.

 

That's correct, as long as the system is not sealed, or close to being air tight, any amount of air you inject will just come out depending on the elevation of your leakage in reference to where the coolant level is. Once it's sealed, you'll be able to force coolant out with the pocket of air you're putting into the system.

 

Just to finish this off. The turbocharge coolant line was leaking. See picture.

Old one broke.

After replacing, I was easily able to pressure the system with the hand pump and it held pressure. The new part I reinforced the hinge with JB Weld. I expect this part to fail very commonly and it is expensive. So I just went ahead and fixed the old part with JB Weld and glued the front and back for added stability for a backup when this fails again. You have to cut back the rubber hose overhang her to glue the plastic and not the rubber. I guarantee it will break somewhere else before it breaks at this JB weld joint.


Old one fixed.

 

Thanks for following through with the end result MIFM, it's well appreciated.

I haven't seen the part first hand, but it appears to be a simple tee intersection. A crafty dude could fashion the same thing up with copper or iron pipe, or even pex. Maybe schedule 40 PVC pipe too? Any thoughts on this?

I would lean towards copper myself, although I don't know what the potential metallurgy problems would be.