R56 Cranks but will not start
#1
R56 Cranks but will not start
Hello, I'm new to the forum and have seen lots of great content.
My daughter has a 2010 S that is not running. She just bought it a couple months ago and it was running great. It started running rough so she took it for a tune up and afterwards it was running much worse. The codes showed multiple misfires so I replaced the coil packs and it ran great for a week then shut down while she was on the highway and would not restart. It cranks, has spark and seems to be getting gas as it tries to fire and I smell gas out the exhaust and on the plugs. I've replaced the cam sensor, fully charged the battery, and checked the fuses. I loosened the fuel inlet to the HPFP and there was a good stream of fuel. I'm getting no ODB codes now and 2 OEM codes, 2F8F (Motor Shutoff Time, Plausibility) and still getting 2983 (Intake Cam Sensor).
I've seen conflicting information about the 2F8F code, do you have any advice about it?
Is it worth replacing the HPFP even though there are no codes?
I don't have a compression tester but I've read here in the forum that timing could be an issue. Even if it is, would that keep it from starting?
Do I need to inspect the timing chain even though it seems to be turning okay?
Don't think I would be able to diagnose an ECU issue.
Pretty much at the limits of what I can do.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
My daughter has a 2010 S that is not running. She just bought it a couple months ago and it was running great. It started running rough so she took it for a tune up and afterwards it was running much worse. The codes showed multiple misfires so I replaced the coil packs and it ran great for a week then shut down while she was on the highway and would not restart. It cranks, has spark and seems to be getting gas as it tries to fire and I smell gas out the exhaust and on the plugs. I've replaced the cam sensor, fully charged the battery, and checked the fuses. I loosened the fuel inlet to the HPFP and there was a good stream of fuel. I'm getting no ODB codes now and 2 OEM codes, 2F8F (Motor Shutoff Time, Plausibility) and still getting 2983 (Intake Cam Sensor).
I've seen conflicting information about the 2F8F code, do you have any advice about it?
Is it worth replacing the HPFP even though there are no codes?
I don't have a compression tester but I've read here in the forum that timing could be an issue. Even if it is, would that keep it from starting?
Do I need to inspect the timing chain even though it seems to be turning okay?
Don't think I would be able to diagnose an ECU issue.
Pretty much at the limits of what I can do.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
Timing chain is always the first thing to check when a car doesn't want to start. The easiest thing to do is to remove the valve cover and visually inspect the chain guides and any abnormalities.
if the timing chain seems to be good (post a picture), then the next thing to check is the fuse box behind the passenger kick panel. check the carpet for water intrusion SPECIALLY if you have a sunroof.
Here is a site for the how to and torque specs. newtis.info
By the way, welcome to the forum
if the timing chain seems to be good (post a picture), then the next thing to check is the fuse box behind the passenger kick panel. check the carpet for water intrusion SPECIALLY if you have a sunroof.
Here is a site for the how to and torque specs. newtis.info
By the way, welcome to the forum
#3
Thanks for the quick reply and the welcome message.
It does have a sunroof but I didn't see any evidence of water intrusion as I did look for that based on a video I saw (guy called it a German fish bowl). Although, I didn't access the entire fuse panel as part of it is behind the kick panel and not accessible just by taking the access door off, which will be the next step to try.
I've been avoiding pulling off the valve cover (even though it doesn't look too difficult) but I will try that this weekend. It's just strange that it would cause a no start when it was running and cruising at 60 MPH when it just shut down. To my ears, it doesn't sound like anything is off or broken when it's cranking.
Any advice about the 2F8F code? I've read that it's an issue with the gas pedal assembly, but when I read "Motor Shutoff" it seems like it could/should be significant.
It does have a sunroof but I didn't see any evidence of water intrusion as I did look for that based on a video I saw (guy called it a German fish bowl). Although, I didn't access the entire fuse panel as part of it is behind the kick panel and not accessible just by taking the access door off, which will be the next step to try.
I've been avoiding pulling off the valve cover (even though it doesn't look too difficult) but I will try that this weekend. It's just strange that it would cause a no start when it was running and cruising at 60 MPH when it just shut down. To my ears, it doesn't sound like anything is off or broken when it's cranking.
Any advice about the 2F8F code? I've read that it's an issue with the gas pedal assembly, but when I read "Motor Shutoff" it seems like it could/should be significant.
#4
#5
Well you found your problem. The upper timing chain guide has failed and the chain has completely jumped off the VANOS. You will need to find a competent Mini mechanic that won't soak you because there could be siginificant damage to the valve train and potentially the pistons. There will most likely be many pieces of the guide and support bracket in the oil pan so that will have to come off also. It isn't out of the question that it could be rebuilt but you would have to be ready for the task.
Sorry it isn't any good news.
Sorry it isn't any good news.
#6
I'll have to disagree with my friend above.
You might still be in the clear. I bought a clubman back in the day with the same exact issue as yours. I simply reset the timing and but a new timing chain kit. Cleaned the oil pan and oil pickup. All was fine. No bent valves and ran like a champ.
Moral of the story, you still have a chance to saving it.
You might still be in the clear. I bought a clubman back in the day with the same exact issue as yours. I simply reset the timing and but a new timing chain kit. Cleaned the oil pan and oil pickup. All was fine. No bent valves and ran like a champ.
Moral of the story, you still have a chance to saving it.
#7
I'll have to disagree with my friend above.
You might still be in the clear. I bought a clubman back in the day with the same exact issue as yours. I simply reset the timing and but a new timing chain kit. Cleaned the oil pan and oil pickup. All was fine. No bent valves and ran like a champ.
Moral of the story, you still have a chance to saving it.
You might still be in the clear. I bought a clubman back in the day with the same exact issue as yours. I simply reset the timing and but a new timing chain kit. Cleaned the oil pan and oil pickup. All was fine. No bent valves and ran like a champ.
Moral of the story, you still have a chance to saving it.
Last edited by mildensteve; 06-14-2020 at 06:44 AM.
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#8
#10
OP, please don't forget all the "while your in there" stuff to do on a 10 year old car. If you get it all done at once, you will have a good car that is really fun to drive for years to come.
#11
Literally had the same problem last month still currently in the process of putting mine back together. I had 4 bent valves. I replaced those its really not that hard either just tedious. It just matter of having the right tools is what delayed me. Hopefully you don't also check your oil pump chain as well. Mine did had to be replaced. I'll be able to have everything put back together and possibly start it tomorrow. Just take your time if you're going to be doing it yourself.
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