i have a 2007 mini cooper S ; just completed a thermostat replacement and i also replaced the water pipe connecting the water pump to the thermostat. it took quite a long time and had trouble getting all the parts to properly align. I have refilled with new coolant, reattached the battery terminals. The car turns and turns, stumbles but wont turn over. Any suggesttions before I have it towed to mechanic. Im pretty sure that i reconnected the wires properly. I gad to wait a few weeks for all the parts before i put the car back together. Any ideas on what to look for? I spent a lot of time with my arms behind the motor trying to get the water pipe seated properly. Could i have broken the engine ground? IDK where that is located.

 

The only engine ground I can remember is on the other side of the engine, on the passenger side motor mount, so I doubt it's a ground issue. However I know there are a lot of connections that have to be undone to access the thermostat. I would guess you either missed a plug for an important sensor like MAF or cam position, or possibly switched two connectors. How much of the car did you disassemble exactly? Take apart anything related to fuel or spark? By any chance did you disconnect any of the plugs on the ECU?

 

we took off the cover to the ecu, but could not get any of the connections off and left it alone. its possible i connected the elictrical connectios wrong to the thermostat. is there any way to diagnose if i have them attached in wrong spots. the car started fine previously.

 

we took off the ground screw to the wires near the spark plugs. we broke the tip of the wire putting it back on. we streipped the wire back a bit and pressed on a new end piece and screwed it back togetehr. it seems with how its turning over that the spark is not right or maybe the camshaft sensor might be connected wrong.

 

Check your plug going into the HPFP. I'd imagine you your work there in there thermostat vicinity that you may have loosened that plug and maybe forgotten to plug it back.

 

Take out a spark plug ground it, see if you have spark... check for spark and fuel... do you have an obde reader? if so pull some codes.

When you replaced the tip on the ground wire did you have the battery unhooked or hooked up? Confirm continuity between the wire and the engine mount ground (this should be a guarrentee) then confirm it against the negative terminal on your battery, and a couple random spots on the frame.

 

i checked that plug and it is connected properly, but i notice tha black housing where this plug attaches to on the hpfp is loose and it wiggles, i suspect that we may have damaged the black piece on the hpfp? do you agree? does that mean buying a new hpfp?

 

Did you remove the intake manifold to replace the black pipe from thermostat to WP? If so there are a number of disconnects that will keep the car from starting.

 

I just got a R56 2010 S myself as a fun, toy car. 2 weeks after I got it, Timing chain failed. Got the tools and parts and repaired it. I also changed the water pump, intercooler and cool air intake system. New oil change and coolant system drain and refill. Car was put back together and fired up on the 1st start. Let it warm up an hour, no leaks or increased temp. Took it for a 5 mile drive and seemed great. After parking it, would not start again. We think there might be air in the coolant system and there is now a check engine light. Waiting on Amazon to deliver the code reader/reset device. Some buddies have suggested that the coolant system must be bled to get the air out and the code reset before it will start again. I am impatient waiting, after being broken down for 5 weeks now.

 

I would worry the timing is off myself. You do have to bleed the air out of the coolant system. However, unless you get an air lock, it will somewhat take care of itself, assuming the piston/rod doesn't come through the side because of it overheating, but leave your expansion tank empty. I don't like to do so many things at once myself.

 

I didn't think the car would start, let alone run if the timing wasnt right. I used a diagnostic tool and got 3 codes, which I can't locate anything online about these codes. They are AOB4 engine starter operation, AOC1 output terminal 50 and AOC2 output terminal 50 RS. No idea what they are and how to fix them. I'm going to call West Chester Mini later today. Any ideas?

 

I assume you hear the starter engaging and turning over. Is it possible you missed a connector? It might be one of those hand in the front of the head issues.

Have you checked all fuses?

 

So, I found out that the codes are related to the CAS system. And to answer your questions, the fuses are OK, and there is no sound at all when starting the car. No turning over, no clicking, nothing. The dash lights up and headlights turn on then nothing else. Several companies online says that you have to mail them the CAS and the vehicle keys and they will repair and reprogram the unit and send it back to you. This is getting out of control! Thanks for your replies! Always great to hear others experiences and knowledge.

 

Wow. So the second you fixed the timing chain, you get the CAS....
A case of bad luck. How much is the CAS repaired? How many miles are you at?

 

I am around 79,500 miles. My dad did some work on the car and found that there was no power at the starter. So, I found one about 55 miles from me in NJ, so I got it and replaced same. No Start and even more engine codes now. All electrical. Other blogs are saying that the CAS is fried, probably from hooking and unhooking the battery over the course of 6 weeks. Some companies can fix the CAS system. So now I have to remove the dash and get the CAS out. I bought another key fob, only had 1 and will send the fobs and the CAS to a company so they can either clone or repair the CAS and program the keys. I wont have any hair left to pull out if this does not work. I dont anticipate on having a update till mid May.

 

Am around 79,500 miles. My dad did some work on the car and found that there was no power at the starter. So, I found one about 55 miles from me in NJ, so I got it and replaced same. No Start and even more engine codes now. All electrical. Other blogs are saying that the CAS is fried, probably from hooking and unhooking the battery over the course of 6 weeks. Some companies can fix the CAS system. So now I have to remove the dash and get the CAS out. I bought another key fob, only had 1 and will send the fobs and the CAS to a company so they can either clone or repair the CAS and program the keys. Luckily, its only $215 to clone or repair. I wont have any hair left to pull out if this does not work. I dont anticipate on having a update till mid May.