So I did the timing chain job on my 2008 cooper s. It all looked great till I tried to start it. I get a crank no start condition. I re checked timing with lock tools in place and plugs out with sticks in the cyl to verify all same level. All this was good. Still no start. So I pulled the plugs and put the coils back in the holes. Hit the starter and it blew the coils out. I’m at a loss. I have a ton of codes for steering, Ecu, abs, entry/start. Any body have some advice they would be willing to share?

 

Did you put your chain tensioner in before you tightened the cam gears? If not that could be the issue.

 

Here's a legitimate procedure for checking N14 timing --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...mshaft/4PAbHZs I suggest you get familiar with this website. Also, when using the "lock tools", it's necessary to not only lock both cams, but also the flywheel, otherwise it's possible to time everything 180 deg out. "Sticks in the cyl" is a waste of time and useless if you know what you're doing.

"So I pulled the plugs and put the coils back in the holes." That was another waste of time --- coils are useless without plugs, and you need the spark plugs to do just what their name implies --- provide spark and plug the compression chamber.

As for all your codes, if you don't have a code reader that can clear codes, take it to an auto parts store and ask them to read / clear your codes. Or, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect it and try again. This will usually clear codes. Disadvantage is, date / time will need to be reset. Ensure windows and sunroof are closed before disconnecting battery or you might need to reset them too.

Best of luck ---

 

Lock tools were used on crank and cam

i put the coils back in and turned over engine to see if there was compression to blow them out..there was

i have cleared the codes with a scanner and pulled the battery

before the repair I had no codes now I have
9c75
9c6c
e72c
9c57
a8bf
a8b9
a8ac
9cb5
9cc7
9cc8
6116
5e30
5e31
5de6
5e50
5d90
5e05
5e04
2a75
2885
2b64
296a
2a75

now I know these are hexadecimal but I can’t convert them this is all my scanner will pull

i drove the car 30 miles this am with no prob and now it won’t rev or move

the fuel rail pressure is reading 700-900 at idle and up to 1500 at speed when it was running this am now it still read between 700-1000 at idle but barley idles and shakes and studers

 

I put the coils back in the holes and cranked it to ensure I had compression

ive cleared the codes and they come back.. 25 of them for everything from abs to windows

the Hpfp is running at 700-900 at idle and around 15k under load

im ata a loss as to why it won’t run correctly now

 

Post #1 it wouldn't start. Post #4 it ran for 30 miles with no problem. What fixed it to run for 30 miles?

Any chance the battery is shot? Low voltage can cause all kinds of weird codes and symptoms. Then, keeping RPM's close to idle speed may not cause enough alternator re-charge.

I'm guessing you're a novice at repairing Mini's. Timing setup is completely different from most other cars and procedure / torque settings are critical. If the car ran fine for a short time, chances are one of the cam or crank bolts loosened. I suggest you do it again --- with a new set of TTY bolts, and use the newtis procedure for installing the chain. At least, recheck the timing --- with a feeler gauge.

If you're a DIY'r, you're gonna need a better code reader --- one for BMW / Mini code translation.

2nd gen Mini's can be a money pit, be prepared ---

 

agree, battery, then check timing with the right tools. I would and didn't even consider touching timing without the appropriate locks for mine. A good code reader (200+$) will at least tell you obdi codes and be useful, then all you can do is start working through them one at a time.