(removed "URGENT" from title as I have made a decision on going OEM alignmentsalignment)

(See pics) Replacing my chain, sprockets, and guides and trying to line up the OEM marks before taking the old chain off.

Seems like the existing chain is off by a tooth on the cam sprocket?

I'll keep turning to see if I can get that tooth back but it seems like if the crankshaft ones are on, the cam should be on as well.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Andy

 

Went all the way around again. Same location. Now, should I go mark to mark or go off like I'm taking off...I've got a little time since I still have to take off the crankshaft sprocket and that I haer can be a tough one - let's hope it is easy.

 

When you reinstall, just follow the timing marks and the chain links...put it back correctly!!!

 

I agree with 1qwkmini--put it back where it belongs. I can't imagine there's ever really a reason to install it a tooth off. It's almost certainly a mistake by the last yahoo who was in there. Just out of curiosity: does it run OK? I guess the ECM could try to adjust for it but I would still assume it would be a little "off."

For the crank sprocket I ended up grinding it off with a dremel (Dremel 9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter). I couldn't get a puller to grab. The dremel made pretty quick work of it once I fell back on that option. Work on top of the key to make sure you don't gouge the crankshaft. When you replace it, bake it to ~350F and it'll slide right on. I used a hot plate, a can, and a tinfoil tent. If you don't get it hot enough, you'll be in the same boat trying to take it off again, so make sure it's at the right temp.

 

One other thing I'd add is that if I didn't have replace the crank sprocket, I wouldn't. I've read that you should replace the sprockets if you replace the chain, but mine with 100k miles didn't seem much "sharper" than the new one. For the headache, it's not worth it. Chain, top sprocket, guides? Golden! Just my opinion.

 

Thanks for the info. I did end up putting it OEM alignment.

It did run fine previously though I haven't driven a MINI before so no comparison. I bet the ECM can adjust some stuff and at some point mechanical/physical the position of the cylinder relative to the valves being open or not is just what it is and no ECU coding magic can change the physical world. I'm really excited to drive it after this although all the things I'm doing I'll never know which caused any changes.

My sprocket came off easy. Used a 2/3 puller from advance auto. Interestingly with 3 arms it kept slipping of the gear. With 2 arms it held right and it came off like butter. I ended borrowing all the different FLAPS pullers in anticipation of this possibly difficult task and this one was definitely the nicest.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...20OR%209150040

I am surprised to hear your 350F target temp as other post I read warn against heating over 300F/150C. I heated mine to about 270F and put it on. It was a tight fit and ended up persuading it to fill contact Turns out that a 2" receiver hitch fits right over the crankshaft and right on the collar of the gear so it doesn't touch the teeth and is a good length for clearance to swing the hammer. Hope I didn't cause issues inside with the force from the hammer blows.

The OEM alignment eased my OCD and I slept well

 

Funny how the 2-arm puller worked better: great info. For the sprocket heat, I guess my goal was to ensure you were aware you needed to heat it. Steel doesn't start to do anything until about 600, and paper doesn't even burn until 450. So I think the difference between 300 and 350 is trivial. But you're right, Mini says not more than 300.

Glad you got it back together with everything lined up. Have you fired it up yet?

 

not yet. still have many things to complete...and need to order OEM coolant hoses and orings, etc, so that will take some shipping time....though this timing chain is the deepest I'm going in so not is putting it back together.