'07 N14 Starts, Runs, But throwing 10+ Codes
#1
'07 N14 Starts, Runs, But throwing 10+ Codes
Hello all, bear with me and my short story...
A year or two ago my mom bought a 2007 Cooper Base with a 6 speed and sport package, and she instantly fell in love with the car. She works very close to home and only drives a mile or two a day, albeit up and down the quite steep hill, but is generally very gentle with the car.
A little while ago she complained how the car wasn't as powerful as it used to be in the lower RPM's, around 1k-2.5~3k. CEL came out to be a misfire, so I replaced the spark plugs with OEM NGK's and replaced the coil with a genuine. (I think Beru) I also noticed spark plug tube seals were leaking so I replaced the valve cover gasket at the same time. Car seemed the get its life back and was good to go for a couple months.
About a month ago, power loss came back with more CEL's, along with a REALLY rough idle when the car is warm. Came out to be the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Exhaust VVT solenoid. I only replaced the Position Sensor, (again genuine part) just to see if both codes would go away. CEL came back on, but this time only for the Exhaust VVT solenoid. I bit the bullet and bought one (again, genuine) and installed it. The car was immediately MUCH more powerful than it had ever been, idles super smooth, revs up really well. You can just feel this car wants to go now! However, this is where my problems arise.
After starting the car and driving, upon coming to a stop sign or light, the car will instantly cut out when i press the clutch pedal in. It is a very hard RPM dive and goes straight to 0. It will start right back up and idle every time, but the second you start going and stopping it wants nothing to do with it. I expected another CEL to point to the problem after a day of driving it.
Oh Boy.
To my horror tonight I plugged in my scanner and got 20 codes back, in various states of Pending and Stored, as listed below:
P0010 Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank 1)
P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank1)
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit
P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low
P0597 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit / Open
P0598 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low
P2088 A Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P2090 B Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P113B Mass or Volume Air Flow 1 Correction Signal Plausibility Period Too Short
I am REALLY hoping there is a common denominator to all these codes, as most of these I have never seen on this vehicle before. How could all of this go bad at the exact same time??? I've worked at an auto parts store for 4 years and this is BY FAR the most codes I've gotten back on ANY car I've scanned.
Car has ~128k miles. I've changed the oil regularly with Valvoline synthetic 5w40 and a new filter every time. The car is still reliable and will always turn over, but this issue needs to be resolved quickly for obvious reasons.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm fairly experienced working on cars, please let me know if there's anything I can peek at or take pictures of! I am not scared to rip things apart, any suggestions are a blessing!
Thank you for your time!
A year or two ago my mom bought a 2007 Cooper Base with a 6 speed and sport package, and she instantly fell in love with the car. She works very close to home and only drives a mile or two a day, albeit up and down the quite steep hill, but is generally very gentle with the car.
A little while ago she complained how the car wasn't as powerful as it used to be in the lower RPM's, around 1k-2.5~3k. CEL came out to be a misfire, so I replaced the spark plugs with OEM NGK's and replaced the coil with a genuine. (I think Beru) I also noticed spark plug tube seals were leaking so I replaced the valve cover gasket at the same time. Car seemed the get its life back and was good to go for a couple months.
About a month ago, power loss came back with more CEL's, along with a REALLY rough idle when the car is warm. Came out to be the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor and the Exhaust VVT solenoid. I only replaced the Position Sensor, (again genuine part) just to see if both codes would go away. CEL came back on, but this time only for the Exhaust VVT solenoid. I bit the bullet and bought one (again, genuine) and installed it. The car was immediately MUCH more powerful than it had ever been, idles super smooth, revs up really well. You can just feel this car wants to go now! However, this is where my problems arise.
After starting the car and driving, upon coming to a stop sign or light, the car will instantly cut out when i press the clutch pedal in. It is a very hard RPM dive and goes straight to 0. It will start right back up and idle every time, but the second you start going and stopping it wants nothing to do with it. I expected another CEL to point to the problem after a day of driving it.
Oh Boy.
To my horror tonight I plugged in my scanner and got 20 codes back, in various states of Pending and Stored, as listed below:
P0010 Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank 1)
P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank1)
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit
P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low
P0597 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit / Open
P0598 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low
P2088 A Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P2090 B Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P113B Mass or Volume Air Flow 1 Correction Signal Plausibility Period Too Short
I am REALLY hoping there is a common denominator to all these codes, as most of these I have never seen on this vehicle before. How could all of this go bad at the exact same time??? I've worked at an auto parts store for 4 years and this is BY FAR the most codes I've gotten back on ANY car I've scanned.
Car has ~128k miles. I've changed the oil regularly with Valvoline synthetic 5w40 and a new filter every time. The car is still reliable and will always turn over, but this issue needs to be resolved quickly for obvious reasons.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm fairly experienced working on cars, please let me know if there's anything I can peek at or take pictures of! I am not scared to rip things apart, any suggestions are a blessing!
Thank you for your time!
#3
Yes, all were stored, along with some duplicate Pending Codes. I have deleted the codes from the computer but I haven't had the chance to drive it again to see if the codes come back.
#5
Found this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...upply-pin.html
This seems to be a very similar situation, my case being non turbo.
I tracked down wire X60231 coming from pin 41 on the ECU and im only reading 3V with accessory/ignition on. Post states it should be 12V. This is leading me to believe my ECU may be fried as well. AM I correct to believe this? Is there anything that could be hampering the ECU from putting out 12V to this specific wire?
Any responses are appreciated!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...upply-pin.html
This seems to be a very similar situation, my case being non turbo.
I tracked down wire X60231 coming from pin 41 on the ECU and im only reading 3V with accessory/ignition on. Post states it should be 12V. This is leading me to believe my ECU may be fried as well. AM I correct to believe this? Is there anything that could be hampering the ECU from putting out 12V to this specific wire?
Any responses are appreciated!
#6
Found this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...upply-pin.html
This seems to be a very similar situation, my case being non turbo.
I tracked down wire X60231 coming from pin 41 on the ECU and im only reading 3V with accessory/ignition on. Post states it should be 12V. This is leading me to believe my ECU may be fried as well. AM I correct to believe this? Is there anything that could be hampering the ECU from putting out 12V to this specific wire?
Any responses are appreciated!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...upply-pin.html
This seems to be a very similar situation, my case being non turbo.
I tracked down wire X60231 coming from pin 41 on the ECU and im only reading 3V with accessory/ignition on. Post states it should be 12V. This is leading me to believe my ECU may be fried as well. AM I correct to believe this? Is there anything that could be hampering the ECU from putting out 12V to this specific wire?
Any responses are appreciated!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bond_007
Stock Problems/Issues
19
10-20-2020 06:32 PM