Possible High Pressure Fuel Pump failing
#1
Possible High Pressure Fuel Pump failing
What do you guys think is the problem.
Looking for some advice. I have a 2012 R55 JCW with 98,000 miles. The car runs fine at any speed in any gear with any amount of throttle after it is started. Yes I hear signs of the "Death Rattle"
https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8Fe1MgRvGCCS2iK7
This is a video with a cold start. I have a feeling i know what it is. So I took it to dealership thinking it was the the High Pressure Fuel Pump. Dealership said it wasnt. They said they want to start by fixing the oil leaks they noticed and the tensioner bolt and timing chain for about $2800 and rule those out as the problem before they look at putting in a new HPFP. I know the HPFP is covered for 10 years 120,000 miles from MINI USA. How do I get my service advisor to work with me and replace the HPFP first and than I will move on to the other issues at my local mechanic
Looking for some advice. I have a 2012 R55 JCW with 98,000 miles. The car runs fine at any speed in any gear with any amount of throttle after it is started. Yes I hear signs of the "Death Rattle"
https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8Fe1MgRvGCCS2iK7
This is a video with a cold start. I have a feeling i know what it is. So I took it to dealership thinking it was the the High Pressure Fuel Pump. Dealership said it wasnt. They said they want to start by fixing the oil leaks they noticed and the tensioner bolt and timing chain for about $2800 and rule those out as the problem before they look at putting in a new HPFP. I know the HPFP is covered for 10 years 120,000 miles from MINI USA. How do I get my service advisor to work with me and replace the HPFP first and than I will move on to the other issues at my local mechanic
Last edited by penguinplf; 10-21-2020 at 06:52 AM.
#2
#4
Best way to diagnose a failing HPFP is to get yourself one of those OBD WiFi or Bluetooth dongles and run either Dash Command or Carly to get the fuel rail pressure reading both at idle and while under load. At idle it should be in the 600-800psi range and in the 1400-1800psi range at heavy throttle. Those are ballparks, but essentially you should be seeing hundreds of PSI at idle and in the teens under heavy throttle. If you're seeing anything in only double digits, its probably only your in-tank pump that is operating.
#5
Best way to diagnose a failing HPFP is to get yourself one of those OBD WiFi or Bluetooth dongles and run either Dash Command or Carly to get the fuel rail pressure reading both at idle and while under load. At idle it should be in the 600-800psi range and in the 1400-1800psi range at heavy throttle. Those are ballparks, but essentially you should be seeing hundreds of PSI at idle and in the teens under heavy throttle. If you're seeing anything in only double digits, its probably only your in-tank pump that is operating.
Thanks which one do you recommend. Dash Command or Carly? Can you link me to a Bluetooth dongle or will any one do?
#6
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
#7
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#8
If you already have a code reader, I'd go with Dash Command, as the option to create your own gauge set is useful. If you need a code ready and want to do some customizations with lighting etc, then Carly might be a better option. As for the dongle, Amazon has dozens of these in the $10 range. Just pick any OBD to Wifi dongle which is compatible with your phone.
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
#9
If you already have a code reader, I'd go with Dash Command, as the option to create your own gauge set is useful. If you need a code ready and want to do some customizations with lighting etc, then Carly might be a better option. As for the dongle, Amazon has dozens of these in the $10 range. Just pick any OBD to Wifi dongle which is compatible with your phone.
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
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