This seems to be a common issue. That said, I bought this car with a known coolant leak, and during teardown saw evidence it was overheated. I had the head rebuilt, new CP pistons, new gaskets, ARP studs. New thermostat, new coolant pipe. It started up and ran pretty good in the driveway, I took it out on the road and was getting some sputtering at 4000 rpm. Then I got the red oil pressure light at idle. Over a 20 min drive, this turned into low pressure at higher rpm. I haven't replaced the pump yet, but I'm seeing lots of threads where people replace them and the problem persists. The engine doesn't sound bad. 112k miles.

 

Any codes being stored? Bad oil solenoid valve? Bad oil pressure sensor?

 

Is this on the new build?

 

Yes, I've been taking my time with it and last night was the maiden voyage.

 

No codes. I'm wondering about the solenoid too. I don't think it's the sensor. I had a friend follow me and he said when I would get on it a cloud of black smoke would come out the tail pipe.
I am getting the half engine light also, but still no codes.

 

So I put a mechanical gauge on it...when cold I've got 30 psi oil pressure, it will jump up to 70 with revs and come back down. When warm, it drops to near zero and goes up to 20 psi with revs. Is this the pump or something else worn? I saw a post where the vanos intake sprocket has a metal ring that wears out and a new gear might fix it. Listed as 'Inlet Cam Adjustment Unit'
Edit- another post mentions it as nylon based o-ring 11317587757
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...317587757~oeb/
ECS says it doesn't fit but Outmotoring says it does.
https://www.outmotoring.com/camshaft-o-ring.html

 

It looks like there are 2 of these on the intake cam...I don't recall seeing them when I had the engine apart. They should arrive this week and I'll know if it works this weekend. Also called a camshaft 'rectangring' or cam end seal. Thanks @Detroit Tuned for the pic. This was not easy to google.

 

Looks like #2 in the parts diagram, the "Rectangring":
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3926

Are they flexible, or do you have to cut a slit to fit? I find it interesting that RealOEM calls out only one for the N14 intake cam, and two for each cam on the N18 engine, even though VANOS is used on the N14 intake. Being only $5 each, I would probably get a few.

 

Yes, I ordered 2 to be safe and then discovered I need 2 anyway. If this is the fix for all the low oil pressure cars, I'll be amazed. I think it just slides on, no cutting.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/11317587757/

We updated our fitment.

 

Thanks Mike!

 

Welcome, if you see something on our site shoot me a PM and we can have it fixed or updated in a day or so.

 

So I'm a little further down the rabbit hole.
The cam has metal versions of these seals, and they look pretty good. I didn't see any significant wear. Cams look pretty good too.
I decided to try a new oil pump, now I have 12 psi at idle...is this enough? I have seen conflicting info. Rod end bearings looked ok, but I had replaced them with the pistons. I don't suspect the mains but I'm running out of ideas. I have seen a million threads of low oil pressure Minis and basically no fix.
In addition, I have a sputtering at high rpm, but only if I get on it. Smooth driving it's not there. Already tried a new VANOS solenoid.
I also have a P1497 with a new valve cover. Is this worth pursuing or do I push this car into the river??
@WayMotorWorks @Detroit Tuned I would love your input.

 

According to the Bentley manual, your oil pressure is OK at idle. Can't help you on the sputtering or P1497...Good luck!

 

P1497 is for unmetered air in the intake manifold. That will effect drivability and smoothness since the ECU can’t control that air.

I feel for you in chasing issues, but maybe it sounds like you might be rushing to get this car going, and possibly missing some torques or gaskets or something... I am not sure where to lead you... What is the condition of the PCV hoses?

 

Definitely not rushing, just hard to find good info. If 12 psi is good, then one problem solved.
PCV hoses look good, there was a catch can that I removed. The hose on the valve cover does not have a clamp, it just presses on?
I suspect maybe the vacuum pump seal?
The HPFP is fairly new, supposedly. I have seen reports of bad gas causing misfires, so maybe that's it.

 

If you are already at, I would just (in order):
* Check rear pcv port and vacuum hose to the intake manifold (they are brittle)
* Put a cheap new vamos solenoid in (well, I guess I cleaned yours when you are in there? If not, clean it)
* Get a vacuum pump seal kit on ebay (replaces the gasket to the head, the gasket for the cover and the one on the nipple)
* Get new valve cover (the eBay stuff is fine for this)

 

Seems like you already have a new vanos solenoid, so ignore.

 

I have a new valve cover too. Rear pcv hose looks good. It seems oil pressure is dropping below 10 psi as the engine heats up. I am also losing coolant, looks like through the overflow cap? It gets very hot. I'm done trying to fix the engine, it was a bad purchase. I've spent almost $6000 at this point, plus untold hours of labor, and it's still not road worthy. The guy that sold it to me did not know how bad it was, and I did not anticipate these additional issues. I'm going to yank the engine and gas tank, turn this thing into an electric. It will take awhile, but it's either that or I set it on fire.

 

Sounds like punting might be your best option. Sell off what you can to make the ev swap cheaper.

 

That really sucks. Maybe a crack in the block or head near an oil passages that expands when hot.

 

Yeah, it's hard to say. It initially ran pretty good with no leaks, but I've put maybe 15 miles on it and it's just getting worse. I love the chassis, it's a shame the engine is rubbish. You are probably right about the block, I had the head tested and did new pistons, but the block stayed in the car. Seller said it wasn't overheated but I found clear evidence that it was.