Replaced the turbo with JMTC JM40 (nice!) and Mario's catless Downpipe (Schweet!), intake manifold gaskets, noise gen delete and some other small bits . The reason for the turbo replacement was the car would go into limp mode if we used the sport mode and drove the car how it should be lol.. Took it to a shop and they said too much play in shaft. I thought okay that makes sense and I thought there is some play but is that enough to cause this issue? This is my first turbo car so okay I will take the shops advice (reputable Euro shop) and replace the turbo myself.

I took it out for a drive after the new turbo was installed and in third gear when driving aggressive it will go into limp mode every time. This leads me to believe that perhaps the old turbo was bad but that was not what was causing the car to go into limp mode. The odds of the new turbo being bad (done some sanity checks already it seems just fine) are like the lotto I would say. So I am looking everywhere else for the cause.

Unfortunately this 2885 error is very vague! There is a list of 10-12 things it could be. I have read many threads about it and some enthusiasts spend a very long time trying to fix, even Mini shops struggle to fix. So here I am...I will start with the boost pressure / temperature sensor and the Turbocharger Boost Solenoid. I have checked the vacuum lines, cleaned the Vanos, and did whatever else other than replacing all parts related. I also read where a dirty air filter can even trigger the 2885 so that will be replaced also.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Debugging a 2885 is tricky

Possible culprits are:
1) Bad vac lines - replace is cheapest/lowest risk option, rather than trying figure out if they are bad
2) Failing/failed Pressure Converter - this is the PWM valve that controls vacuum to the wastegate actuator - replace

In your case I'm assuming that the DV and wastegate actuator are fine. A simple sanity check for WG actuator is to pull and hold vacuum on it for 30 seconds to see if there is a leak.

Another possibility (but not very likely for a new turbo) is the wastegate actuator adjustment - travel should be very close to 8mm

Another note: Assessing a turbo's health via shaft play takes quite a bit of experiance, even a new turbo will have what seems like a lot.

 

Check the code here:
https://bmwfault.codes/

https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AANQA0ADAANAA=

These are the troubleshooting actions:
1. Check vacuum system for vacuum leaks.
2. Check intake system pressurized sector (between turbocharger and throttle valve).
3. Check wiring/plug on electro-pneumatic vacuum converter (open wire / unplugged).
4. Check operation of vacuum pump (measure vacuum generated).
5. Check dump valve.
6. Check operation / motion of wastegate (move WG directly using manual vacuum pump)
7. Determine whether the turbo shaft is loose and whether the turbocharger makes noise when turned by hand. Otherwise replace turbocharger.
8. Replace DME

 

Thank you thefarside & njarmeka for the quick replies!
1. Point taken, I will order new vacuum lines - you must have read my mind. I inspected and thought these are just fine! But you are so right as the part cost is less, so just replace it! Will do
2. Pressure converter - Ordered it last night
3. I will do a further sanity check on the WG - do I just get some pump and apply the vacuum as you mentioned?
4. Turbo shaft play - yeah I am definitely not convinced now that the turbo was "that" bad. I think I will send it to JMTC for an inspection and then rebuild if needed and then sell it. In fact the turbo is not very old age wise or mileage wise
5. Dump Valve - This is also new but you are right I am being lazy and should pull it off and inspect it. I will do that tonight.
6. Turbo charger already replaced so I should be good there, I will do the sanity checks as you guys mentioned
7. DME? Yikes I hope not but anything is possible

What about the MAP sensor that is connected to the intake manifold, my thought was this is fine or can be addressed after some of these other items are completed

 

You may not need to perform all those items, just the one that fixes the problem. Start with 1. If that doesn't work, go to 2. If that doesn't work, go to 3, Etc.

 

Exactly that is the plan. All of these things cost money, shoot those vacuum lines are almost $100 (just ordered). Vacuum lines so expensive man I miss those gold ole days.

So far $300.00 in with the new parts and I am okay with it since the car is almost 9 years old. It would not be so bad if I hadn't already spent the money on the turbo, DP, blah blah but that's all part of the game I suppose...pay to play

 

OUCH! $100.00 for vacuum lines? That is the least complex path, I suppose.

However, you could go to any auto store and buy vac line for $0.90 per foot or so. You'll need to snip off a section to ensure you get the correct size. I can't recall the size of the two diameters required. You only need to replace the rubber sections, not the pieces of nylon hard tube, likewise the braided webbing does not need replacing either.

Be on the lookout for things like a cracked plastic nipple, that will produce the same effect as a leaky vac line

 

I ended up getting the lines for $65.00 + small shipping amount, so still not so bad but yes terrible for a vaccum line. I went OEM. I normally would just throw on the Autozone hoses, etc.. but I do not have the time or even the means (Car) to go to the shops as often as I would like. So to keep it easier for me and hopefully to expedite (car has been down for two months!) I went OEM for the hoses. Of course it is crazy expensive its Euro

Thanks for your advice! I did pull off the hoses already before ordering and from my perspective they look and feel fine, but given the situation I am trying to address the low hanging fruits. And with the amount of heat coming from this engine and the car is almost 9 years old, it does not sting as much.

For the first attempt at fix I ordered - New vacuum lines, Pierburg Turbocharger Boost Solenoid, Boost pressure sensor and an air filter. Also not related to this issue I have a serpentine belt, OEM oil filter and Euro oil (Thanks JMTC) ready to go

 

Update: Turbo sanity check - passed
Installed the new vacuum lines, new pressure converter, new air filter, new spark plugs (#1422) - 2885 still persists. Waiting for the boost pressure sensor hopefully tomorrow, let's see.

Ordered a new valve cover / PCV valve (what a stupid design).
Next?

 

New Valve cover installed. 1st test drive it worked! So stoked. I drove it spirited for about 20-25 minutes came home and grabbed my wife got down the street hit third gear and FAIL! I am so bummed.
I am only seeing a little under 8psi for the boost when it fails.

Next - data log analysis.
Sitting on bench - Pressure boost switch

 

SO BLESSED! I kept having the inclination to check the Vacuum pump and the BOV. Why the BOV I mean after all it is a new turbo right? Well to be 100% accurate it is a refurbished which in my experience is just as good as new since whatever the refurbished is (electronics, car parts, etc..) they are usually 110%. Well not so much! Turns out the BOV had a hole in the diaphragm! Put it all back together and wow this car is mad fast now!! Holy moly batman this car is amazing now, my daughter is impressed lol. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and guidance. I was hoping and praying I would not be one of the dudes on here who have spent $1000's and months later still no resolve.

In the end here is what I did / currently finishing with the car
0. New Turbo JM40 from JMTC
1. New Spark Plugs (1422)
2. New Air filter
3. New IMG
4. New Oil Filter Gaskets
5. New Pressure Converter
6. New gaskets for exhaust & downpipe
7. New PCV hose
8. New valve cover / PCV
9. New Vacuum Lines
10. New Mario Kart Downpipe. Truly a beautiful piece of equipment!
11. New oil send & return lines for turbo
11. Forge Turbo Blanket
12. Oil & Filter change (3x in total, Liqui Molly next after Liqui Moly 2020 Motor Oil Saver)
13. New Thermostat (not related, needed replacing)
14. Boost pressure / temperature sensor sitting on my bench - was the plan now returning! (Savings of $121)
15. MAP Sensor - was the plan now returning! (savings of $45)

Next: Check the squeaky brakes, Serpantine belt replacement, walnut blasting (any takers?) and a Mario Kart Tune...I cannot wait to see how this car responds once it has a tune.

All dressed up and ready to go

 

JMTC... There’s another reason for them to be on my WTF list. Glad you found it, and didn’t have to go chasing the issue all over. Are you going to go back at JMTC for the replacement diverter valve?

 

To be clear JMTC has been GREAT and extremely helpful. all throughout the troubleshooting. Arric is a stand up classy professional and I will not hesitate to use JMTC in the future .
Replacement upgraded BOV already in priority mail here in 2 days.

I did have to chase some but what I replaced is A-okay as I will consider it preventative or already needed maintenance.

But yeah WTH...I have learned these things happen even to the good guys

So stoked!!

 

For a refurbished turbo to go out with a split diverter valve, and it's not even the latest version, is a short cut. What other work was cut short refurbishing that turbo? I'm glad he fixed it for you. But, I don't think it should have gone out like that to begin with.

 

I could not agree more! Quality control is seriously lacking.

The turbo was received with studs except one, I asked for the missing stud and was told that the studs do not come with the turbos. I scratched my head and was like what?..I have all studs except 1. As it turns out the studs should have not been included also.

Let me say how thankful that it was not the wastegate! I had checked that out early on before ever installing.

The key here is JMTC provided excellent support after the fact.

 

Glad you found the cause! I would have had a trial as well, trying to find the diverter leak.

"Debugging a 2885 is tricky" as noted above.

I have about 150K miles on two Minis, never had a DV fail, but pretty much everything else has!

You have been very gracious to JMTC, I think most would have been less so. Not inspecting the DV is a bit on the cheesy side, especially since the failure looks more like a pinch and not a tear.

Are you planning on getting a stage 1 or 2? I have stage 2 on an N18 - car goes like a scalded cat.

The JMTC is basically a early version of the JCW turbo - according to Mario a stage 2 should get about 250 at the wheels (at least for an N18, IIRC)

Just my 0.02 worth, since I don't see any indication of the intercooler being installed: Suggest you go with stage 2. If Santa can't be that generous this year, suggest you get the intercooler first and then spring for the tune later. This is based on my experience to date - I did the intercooler first (I could not find a 3 day window to send the ECU out, for several months) and finally the tune. The intercooler alone made a noticeable difference, I would imagine that the combo of IC and DP, pre-tune, would be a pretty significant fraction of the tune's over all gain.

Fuel economy has dropped about 10% post tune, that is an indicator of the fun meter being pegged - a lot. I have to be careful to stay out really expensive ticket territory.

With the tune, the car has a lightness that was missing from the factory. Fourth gear roll-ons will see you north of 3 digits in a heartbeat...

A lot of fun is right around the corner...

 

@ thefarside - Gracious? Ah maybe. Crap happens and my experience otherwise with Arric has been nothing less than superb. I started asking him too many questions over two years ago! It is one thing if the vendor is not supporting but that is not the case in my situation. I completely agree it should have been inspected!! You are right debugging the 2885 is trial and error, thankfully I did not need the boost pressure / temp sensor or the map sensor, savings of $200.00 for just those two parts.

Yes I am planning to get a tune unfortunately not immediately since I spent a lot of $$$ getting the car up and running and with Christmas here..... Santa already came lol I need to get some good coil overs first also. You know how it is always something on the need list and more on the "wish" list

No intercooler...yet I am looking into that now and will put one on at the beginning of the year. I also want to "break everything in" to ensure the car is as solid as I believe it is. Intercooler before tune makes sense then go for the stage 2, thanks for the suggestion / feedback. You are correct 250 WHP for stage 2, WOW! I can't even get my mind around that.

The car is already noticeably faster and the fun factor has increased exponentially with the new Turbo (which as per my understanding is a slight upgrade) and Mario's downpipe. It is so fun to drive and quick now it's crazy. To think it could be so much quicker. Correction - to think it will be so much quicker.

The turbo was only working for non sport mode for over two years. We just could not afford to replace it and my daughter was driving mostly so it became a lower priority. When the thermostat went out and I looked into what else to replace I started ripping the car apart and was motivated to replace the turbo which had been sitting on my bench for a few months. About the only thing I did not do was replace the water pump. The engine is new as of 20K miles ago, I am checking with BMW to see if the water pump is new or original, I suspect orig.

I let my daughter know it is a ticket machine now! Especially with no CAT. The sound is amazing! Even in non-sport mode when in town / putting around the neighborhood it is pretty sick.
I installed the Torque BOV adapter for the "whoosh" sound, my daughter really likes it, I am on the fence...her car my $$$

This car is very enjoyable to work on, more enjoyable then my 2005 Acura RSX S. I did not have to put it into service mode for any of the work which was a bonus and probably held my motivation back some initially.

Yesterday I did an oil engine flush (Liqui Molly) - amazing how dirty the oil was considering it was fresh oil with only 100 miles if that. Then filled with Euro Spec Liqui Molly and added Motor Oil saver. - all this to help eliminate oil consumption as guided by JMTC. Replaced the serpentine, added the BOV adapter, replaced fog and DRL's, Turned the rotors and changed the pads to EBC Red.

I am seriously considering trading my daughter the Acura for the Mini.

 

I did this same thing about 2000 miles ago. The first 1000 miles it was hard to read the dipstick when check oil levels. I have gone from burning 1 qt every 1000-1500, to just 1 qt over this 2k. im pretty much sold on Liqui Moly and will be the only oil i use in the mini. I plan on doing the flush and motor oil saver every 10k, and that 5k change in between just liqui moly 5w-40. Liqui Moly also recommended running Jectron every 4th tank, which im doing as well.

 

Good to hear! Thanks. I will be doing pretty much the same, just ordered the Jectron.