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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
The lag and the burning smell are classic crank pulley core separation symptoms. What crank pulley do you have installed?
Hey Cooper48, Ive been recently driving the mini and Ive been turning on and off the ASC and DSC and it does nothiing and only until recently have i noticed a significant power loss. The lag that I have been talking about in my recent posts has intensified and the check engine light came back. Could it be the bypass valve? And I do not think you answered my other question, since I am only 16 years old I don't have all the money in the world, and I was hoping that I wont get stuck with having to purchase the Detroit tuned bypass valve that is tuned to fix the yo-yo problem. So what I was thinking is that can I purchase a regular oem bypass valve for the mini and that solves the problem for cheaper?
Thanks!
I seriously doubt that your BPV is the problem and you don't need anything other than the stock BPV if it ever comes to that. Try this: Drive on the highway at around 70mph in 5th gear, hit the throttle and see if your revs go up but your car doesn't accelerate. If that's the case, it's going to be either your clutch or your crankshaft pulley slipping. The pulley slipping will create the burning smell you mentioned in an earlier post. The clutch will not.
I seriously doubt that your BPV is the problem and you don't need anything other than the stock BPV if it ever comes to that. Try this: Drive on the highway at around 70mph in 5th gear, hit the throttle and see if your revs go up but your car doesn't accelerate. If that's the case, it's going to be either your clutch or your crankshaft pulley slipping. The pulley slipping will create the burning smell you mentioned in an earlier post. The clutch will not.
I am positive that I have done that on the highway once or twice and I have not felt the revs go up and my car not accelerating. Ofcourse the only thing that happens is that the car slowly accelerates thats it. But it does not rev up and not accelerate. If you want me to try Id be more than happy to go out and try the specific procedure you mentioned but I am still positive that I have done that.
My other thought is that your MAP sensor could be bad -- it's a relatively cheap fix. If the sensor is bad, the ECM can't accurately calculate engine load, which means the air/fuel ratio will be too rich or too lean. That would affect both your acceleration and your gas mileage. Here's a link to the part if you want to try that: https://www.carparts.com/details/Min...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
My other thought is that your MAP sensor could be bad -- it's a relatively cheap fix. If the sensor is bad, the ECM can't accurately calculate engine load, which means the air/fuel ratio will be too rich or too lean. That would affect both your acceleration and your gas mileage. Here's a link to the part if you want to try that: https://www.carparts.com/details/Min...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hey so I tried the 70 mph in 5th gear and it didn't slip. So I know Its not the clutch or the crank slipping. What are some typical symptoms of a bad MAP sensor? I don't want to replace parts unnecessarily. Also I went under the car recently and everything is covered in oil to the point where I can't pinpoint where the oil leak came from. What I am assuming right now is that it's my power-steering since some startups my power-steering does not kick in right away. I also checked my reservoir and there's not much power steering in it so its possible the power steering fluid drained. I would have to wait a bit until I can start turning my steering wheel without breaking a sweat lol. So with that being said, I am wondering if the burning smell is the power-steering fluid? Thanks.