Hey everyone,
New here but I did search first, couldn't really find anything pertaining to this specific issue but I bought a 2007 mini cooper base 1.6 DOHC N12 engine. Needed work, various suspension parts, valve cover leaking, there were some codes present but I was just using one of those crappy Bluetooth OBD2 dongles and the app wouldn't read any other codes but a P0014, went to replace the valve cover gasket and found the top timing chain guide destroyed so at that point I bit the bullet and ordered a timing chain kit and tool kit.

Locked the flywheel with the pin, did this like 4-5 times to make sure it was actually in place, writing on cams was up, I go to put the locking tools in place and the intake cam fit on perfect with no issues but the exhaust cam was off a bit and wouldn't sit flat with the tool. Also noticed markings on the camshaft sprockets that were not lined up to each other but not sure how relevant that is with these VVT vehicles. Only timing chains I've done were with just sprockets and no vvt. Anyways, I assumed the exhaust camshaft was out since these locking tools basically only fit on one way, I started the timing chain and ended up lining up the exhaust camshaft and got them both locked. Did the rest of the process and somehow the sprockets actually lined up with each other afterwards. Again not sure if that matters or not but sure didn't intend on it since there's no keyways.

Put it all back together and start the car up. Sounds good, no issues no CEL. Put more of the car back together and let it actually warm up to the point of closed loop and get a ticking noise and a P0015.
Swapped the camshaft sensors, same issue. But different to most problems I've heard with that code on here is it only does it warm and closed loop. Open it sounds fine and definitely no ticking. Given that symptom it sounds to me like it could be a vanos solenoid problem as I would assume it would try to adjust it when it's in closed loop and it can't.
I could definitely be wrong but I don't think it's a timing issue as these camshaft locks really don't allow it to move any other way especially if the writing on the cam is up.

I'm a mechanic by trade but never touched the VVT timing chains so anything I'm wrong on sorry and appreciate any insight anyone can give. If I can answer any more questions let me know. Oh and the ticking is definitely more audible from the rear of the engine (closest to the firewall) so intake side I guess but again, only does it when warm and cold start it sounds normal. The P0014 definitely is gone but not sure if the 0015 was there to begin with due to the crappy code reader. I also checked the front(ex) check valve bolt. That one seemed fine, slipped my mind and didn't check the rear one if there even is one.

Thanks everyone! Wish my first post was about how much I love my new Mini but not right now haha.

Cam locks on

Ex would not line up with flywheel pin locked

Marks on sprockets (again, not sure if it matters on these since there's no keyways but they ended up lining up after the fact unintentionally

 

Here's a video as well, the audio doesn't help cause it accentuates other noises but the ticking I'm speaking of starts around 30 it just kicks in and definitely sounds like it's coming from the rear of the engine. I can clear codes and start the car and let it run before that 'ticking' kicks in. 5 mins if it's cold, under a min if it's warm and the P0015 or ticking won't come up but any point after it's warmed up it comes in and it's definitely noticable when it does it's like a switch. When I move in closer to the rear of the engine that's about how audible it is in real life over the rest of the engine.
the cams were all locked and flywheel was locked. Did not move or skip when torquing, and as mentioned before it sounds and runs fine when cold and once it warms up this is what happens.
I removed the vanos solenoids and found metal particles stuck to the screen on the intake vanos, from the upper timing guide no doubt, I cleaned it off and swapped the solenoids but the P0015 remained. Not sure what controls or actuates the vacuum adjustment on the exhaust camshaft or the electronic actuator on the end of the intake cam, could the electronic actuator be bad?

Thanks

 

Jamie, I just went through almost the same scenario on my 2009 Base. I went through every troubleshooting guide/write-up/experience I could find online. You could try swapping the IN/EX VANOS solenoids to see if it follows. The final shotgun shell was the oil non-return valve on the intake and exhaust side. They sit almost an inch below the solenoids. I found that my intake side valve didn't always valve. I don't have the link, but you can find a few posts about it on this and other forums. They're relatively inexpensive and super easy to change if you have small hands. I don't, so I built a nice pillow of shop rags and used all kinds of grabby/pokey tools to get it out.

Now I'm chasing a P115C code..............

bs

 

Hey thanks for the reply! I swapped the vanos solenoids last night but the p0015 stayed, it's odd because the noise sounds like it's more prominent on the intake side but the p0015 is for the exhaust camshaft if I'm not mistaken. I did initially check the one check valve bolt you have pictured but this was when I first got the car prior to the timing chain replacement and forgot to check the rear one. I'll take a look tonight! Thanks! The front one I checked, the check ball would actuate when I applied pressure to it so I assume it's working and didn't assume a check valve would fail only sometimes but I'll definitely check the back to see if it's plugged especially since I had all the metal particles on the rear solenoid.
Will report back, thanks again

 

I pulled the exhaust valve out first as well(easy access) and was concerned about the resistance of the valving (internal spring?), which was very light. When I pulled the intake side, there was no FOD, but I guess the internals had some corrosion build up that was causing the ball to stick open if it was in the perfect "rotation". I ended up replacing both of them at $12 each and the actuation resistance was still light on the new ones.

So if you pull them and find that they are difficult to compress I would definitely replace them.

 

Also, try some Marvel Mystery oil(or similar) to clear up the ticking. It could be one or more questionable lifters

 

I have zero experience with the N12 so can't help with symptoms, etc. But I can provide a good BMW procedure on changing the timing chain --- https://bmwrepairguide.com/category/mini-r56/ There's a couple "hints" unique to this engine you may not be aware of and could possibly cause the problems you're having, specifically the "no CCW engine rotation" and following the recommended sequence of assembly.

Best of luck ---

 

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies. I actually used the bmwrepairguide for the timing chain replacement as it was an amazingly well laid out article.

Bit of an update, the loud ticking in the video and the one that I was concerned about is apparently just the evap purge solenoid? Not sure if that's normal for these cars or not but I unplugged it and ran it to temp and that loud ticking was gone. Still throwing a p0015 and now a p0014 again but at least I know the culprit of that loud noise.

As for the codes, I took the valve cover back off, locked the crank with the flywheel tool and the cam tools fit on perfectly and the writing is facing up so I think it's safe to say the timing is good. I still have to check the rear non return valve but I'll probably just save up some cash and get both replacement solenoids and return valve bolts. If that doesn't do it I believe I've exhausted all my options.

 

Hey everyone, sorry to bring up an old thread but thought people with the same issue might want to know. Had the p0014, p0015, timing chain guides broke, did the timing chain, double checked timing, still had the p0014, p0015, swapped solenoids, didn't change, checked the return check valve bolts, no issues. So that's what brought me here. In the end I had to get a BMW specific code reader and had to reset the vanos adaptations for it to clear successfully. Took it for a few drives and light is out still so if anyone runs into these problems and does a timing chain and still has the codes, you have to reset the adaptations.

Thanks!

 

Awesome update! Thanks for following through.
Which scan tool did you end up with? My 09 is now cycling a P115C(and the rare P2187 or P2178) after clearing codes. I've tried the adaptations reset using an Autophix 5900 w/ BMW software, but maybe it's not taking and the VANOS isn't learning the new parts/config.

 

Hey! I ended up buying the Autophix 7910. It was half the price of the Foxwell nt510 elite that was recommended to me. I forget the exact wording of it in the Autophix menu, hang on. So I went into For BMW>For MINI Series Diagnose>R56>Special Functions>ECM Engine Control Module> then at first I tried 'variable camshaft timing (VANOS) adaptive but that did NOT work for me so I went to 'Delete adaptation/variants and then followed the instructions there and cycled the key when instructed and that one worked so hopefully yours is laid out the same and this helps