I bought a 30mm 12" closed end wrench and I can't budge the belt tensioner in order to get it into the service position. Is there a trick to this? I am pulling up from the bottom or turning it right looking at the car engine from the wheel well. I am applying a lot of pressure not even to see it budge. Enough to make marks on the the aluminum nut. I see there is a tan piece of plastic...is that some kind of plastic lock on top? The button on the top is just a lock that would activate or be used once you get to about a 40 degrees of full travel--correct?

I originally bough a crow wrench but it didn't budge with that so I got the wrench thinking I need more torque.

 

When I did mine I had the core support off, with my 30mm open end I put the round side on nut with the bar pretty much straight up and pulled backwards then pressed the tab in to lock it.

these guys show how to get from wheel well

 

Thanks.
Yeah, I am wondering if I don't have enough torque. If you are directly facing the vehicle then you are exactly 180 degrees in line with the tensioner. How long was your wrench? How much force did it take?

Weird, I just found this article, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ne-belt-431269, which states you can use a screwdriver from the bottom to push the belt tensioner up. I have a gigantic 12', 1/2" head screwdriver and I pushed as hard as I could enough to cause aluminum marks in the tensioner and it didn't even budge a mm. This must take some kind of massive amount of force.

 

i think its about 17 inches long. i will have to measure it when i get home.

 

My wrench is only 12 inches long. I am starting to think I have to go and buy the $50 special tool for this...

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-30...30MM/202916177 this is exactly what i used

 

Can't verify the size, but I use the same style wrench. Awkward to get it on the fitting, but once engaged it only takes 20 - 30 deg movement to lock the tensioner. Might take more if the belt is stretched.

 

 

Thanks. Well that is 4 inches longer. I know 4" would make a difference on torque.
Would you say it takes a lot of umphf ? I worry that I am going to break something because it sure feels like it is not moving at all and I am missing something or my tensioner is broken or locked or something..

 

I don’t think it took too much effort at all. Pulled with my left hand and was able to push the button in with right hand.

 

If you are unable to push up against the belt from underneath the tensioner pulley with a large screwdriver, there must be something else going on.

Is there something your tool is blocked by? Is it a straight head or an offset head?

Is there any visible up-down play in the tensioner arm while the engine is running? Could it be, that the tensioner is stuck?

@Jason Cornelius :
Did you apply that wrench from below or above? I wasn't able to fit and turn a wrench with 15° offset from below, only from above (with the lock bridge removed).

 

I was able to get it from above.

 

I went to Home Depot and got this particular wrench and the extra 4 inches does make a difference. I tried it and I see some movement now. I need a helper to do the set screw to be sure, but I think it is going to work. Thanks.

 

This thread and the advice in it may seem confusing to others who have never changed the belt and are looking for instructions. For their sake, please clearly report:

Does the tool you bought have a straight or offset head (I know what the online description states, but is that what you actually got)?

Are you trying from below or above?

Did you remove any other parts (i.e. headlights/lock bridge from above, AC line bracket from below).

Is the movement enough to push the lock pin in?

Overall (and given that the 1a auto video clearly shows how to do it), I feel that in most cases, the process will be much easier than what someone will expect after reading this thread.

 

1. Well I only did a trial so I need to make sure I am right and it can be pushed far enough for the pin.
2. The Husky wrench at Home Depot has an Offset. Honestly, I think the offset helps because you have the AC line there and it is in the way. The offset allows the wrench to clear that A/C line. The 1A Auto uses a wrench with no offset. Also the wrench he has is at least another 4 or 5 inches longer than the one I have and so the head of the wrench is to below the AC line.
3. I am coming in from the bottom. I have not removed any parts besides the wheel well. I have disconnected the AC line bracket so there is play and I can push it to the side an inch or so (you will need to do that)
4. I believe at this point it is going to work. However, you need a wrench that is at least and every bit of 15" long or longer. The 12" wrench I originally had, there was just insufficient torque to even budge the belt tensioner. So you need to have EXACTLY what is specified. If you try and skirt anything even a tiny bit, it won't work.
   
   I'll come back and edit if I try it and have problems.

 

(I couldn't make an offset wrench work from below, but hadn't tried removing the AC line bracket. A 12" long, straight head wrench works from below without removing the AC line bracket)

 

I couldn't budge it at only 12" and the wrench ended up right above the AC compressor and right against the belt.
Honestly, the think the longer the better. I just found this wrench which is 18" and cost the same as the Husky. That addition 2 inches will make a difference.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Powerbuil...1687/158214080