I'm planning on buying 2011 Mini cooper S automatic transmission with 134K miles at $3000-4000 cash. the buyer sent me video of oil leaks and under the hood while idle. It seems like engine doesn't make noise and looks like still strong but I'm just wondering what could happen to oil leaks. I'm thinking of valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. What else it could be?

 

If oil is leaking from the oil filler cap there's probably excess crankcase pressure --- faulty PCV system or compression blow-by (rings and / or valve seats). Strongly suggest a compression or leak-down test before buying. I didn't watch either video.

 

Idle rpm seem quite high on both videos. Also, listening on my laptop's (very) crappy speakers, there seems to be some rattling noise, not unlike timing chain rattle (though I might be wrong there).

 

Worst mistake of your life is about to be realized. The first thing you'll be repairing is the cylinder head. I'm sorry no one here told you. Run while you can

 

Can I ask you what made you think like that?

 

The S models have a known history of mucking up the intake valves because of super charger oil leaks. We are talking about small amounts over thousands of miles. Add to the intake/exhaust valve seals, which leak in that year model. Compression is the first tell tale. Verify piston compression on each piston. At least that will tell you how the exhaust side valves are. Oii vayy. Good luck. If you are mechanically inclined, it will be the greatest challenge of your life. If your not mechanical, the worst money pit ever. Don't go in blind. You asked a question and I gave you an honest answer. Look up reliability of 2011 S Cooper. They are better than 07-08, but all they are prone to the issues I've described at that mileage.

 

Thanks for the advice. Do you recommend R53 even though it has more mileage?

 

Not really familiar with that one. I know Mini owners are very "brand" loyal. And, I get it. But read up on them. I bought an 07 justa (non turbo), cause I thought I was good enough with wrenching to handle everything. Holy moly, I have never work so tirelessly chasing one thin to the next, only to discover the cylinder head need repair on them so badly. I think they fixed some issues that were worse on the earlier models in the gen 2 minis, but all the turbos had coke on intake valves at 130K miles.

 

LOL. I was about to type this. Exactly what I am thinking. The oil is leaking around the cylinder head to be dripping all the way down the side of the oil reservoir. You will need to open up the cylinder head gasket which is likely leaking, but probably for a reason. However, after you do that, you will realize you need everything. Go ahead and factor in a new engine short-block with less miles, remove and replace into your price.

These cars are a nightmare. They take tons of patience and many hours to do something simple like replace a thermostat that takes 15 mins. on most Japanese cars.
I bought mine with 60,000 miles for $5,000 to give you a comparison sakes with your miles and price. It needed a new fuel pump, fuel filter, new plugs, new coils just to get it running reliably for a year. Now I am rebuilding the coolant system. My part cost will be about $500 and hours of labor to do a near complete rebuild of the plastic coolant system including all new hoses. That's probably at least a $3000-4000 job at BMW.

I would wonder on down the road. It is easy to find some poor person that already made the mistake you are about to make on a much newer car or one with more miles. They will be happy to sell it to you for next to nothing just to get it as far away from them as they can.

I'm not knocking it. I have one. It is like driving a pocket rocket street-legal go-kart. There is NO car more fun to drive IMHO.

 

Not worth it. New timing chain, de-coke all valves, new head gasket, new oil pan gasket, new PCV valve and crankcase top, probably time for another coolant system rebuild, new chassis stabilization all around (end-links, shocks), time for new 4th set of brakes/rotors, this is also about the time you need a new alternator, new starter, new AC Compressor. All that work for a well worn set of cylinder and pistons.

I hope I can find someone to buy mine for that price about that time that has been well taken care of with a spanking clean engine and tons of upgrades, turbo muffer delete, cold-air intake, racing coolant system, upgrade pads and rotors. No refunds!

 

Not worth it. New timing chain, de-coke all valves, new head gasket, new oil pan gasket, new PCV valve and crankcase top, new seals, probably time for another coolant system rebuild, new chassis stabilization all around (end-links, shocks), time for new 4th set of brakes/rotors, this is also about the time you need a new alternator, new starter, new AC Compressor. All that work for a well worn set of cylinder and pistons.

I hope I can find someone to buy mine for that price about that time that has been well taken care of with a spanking clean engine and tons of upgrades, turbo muffer delete, cold-air intake, racing coolant system, upgrade pads and rotors. No refunds!

 

A used mini with 135k miles, without knowing the history, I wouldn’t spend more than $1000 buying it. That many miles and you’ll be chasing issues just to keep it on the road.