AT Damper - Install Tips R53
#1
AT Damper - Install Tips R53
My ATI damper has arrived, I have removed original damper NO choice but to use impact driver as I tried the sixth gear, whilst applying brakes and screw driver in both rotor slots, nothing would stop the damper from turning.
Would like to hear ANY tips at all you have when installing the ATI Damper. I read somewhere on this forum about using an anti-sieze sparingly due to the fact no key way on the crank, maybe this will help with the friction fit?
ANY tips at all would be greatly appreciated especially how to keep the balancer from turning when torquing up new bolt.
Thank you
Would like to hear ANY tips at all you have when installing the ATI Damper. I read somewhere on this forum about using an anti-sieze sparingly due to the fact no key way on the crank, maybe this will help with the friction fit?
ANY tips at all would be greatly appreciated especially how to keep the balancer from turning when torquing up new bolt.
Thank you
#3
Thank you mate that sounds like a very logical tip, putting two lug bolts back on with a crow bar, did not cross my mind! Cheers
#4
My recommendations / how I installed my ATI:
-No anti-sieze
-Do not heat the damper - it has rubber inside which may be damaged.
-Don't use the stock bolt to push the damper onto the crank. Buy a very long M12 bolt, about 150mm long, an M12 nut and washer. Push the damper onto the crank as far as it will go by hand. Thread the nut onto the bolt so it's several inches from the end, install washer against the nut and thread the whole thing into the end of the crank as far as it will go by hand. Keep the bolt from spinning with a wrench and use a second wrench to tighten the washer/nut against the damper. Continue tightening until the damper is fully seated on the crank. Remove the bolt and install the "real" bolt - torqued per the spec.
-No anti-sieze
-Do not heat the damper - it has rubber inside which may be damaged.
-Don't use the stock bolt to push the damper onto the crank. Buy a very long M12 bolt, about 150mm long, an M12 nut and washer. Push the damper onto the crank as far as it will go by hand. Thread the nut onto the bolt so it's several inches from the end, install washer against the nut and thread the whole thing into the end of the crank as far as it will go by hand. Keep the bolt from spinning with a wrench and use a second wrench to tighten the washer/nut against the damper. Continue tightening until the damper is fully seated on the crank. Remove the bolt and install the "real" bolt - torqued per the spec.
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ssoliman (06-23-2022)
#5
My recommendations / how I installed my ATI:
-No anti-sieze
-Do not heat the damper - it has rubber inside which may be damaged.
-Don't use the stock bolt to push the damper onto the crank. Buy a very long M12 bolt, about 150mm long, an M12 nut and washer. Push the damper onto the crank as far as it will go by hand. Thread the nut onto the bolt so it's several inches from the end, install washer against the nut and thread the whole thing into the end of the crank as far as it will go by hand. Keep the bolt from spinning with a wrench and use a second wrench to tighten the washer/nut against the damper. Continue tightening until the damper is fully seated on the crank. Remove the bolt and install the "real" bolt - torqued per the spec.
-No anti-sieze
-Do not heat the damper - it has rubber inside which may be damaged.
-Don't use the stock bolt to push the damper onto the crank. Buy a very long M12 bolt, about 150mm long, an M12 nut and washer. Push the damper onto the crank as far as it will go by hand. Thread the nut onto the bolt so it's several inches from the end, install washer against the nut and thread the whole thing into the end of the crank as far as it will go by hand. Keep the bolt from spinning with a wrench and use a second wrench to tighten the washer/nut against the damper. Continue tightening until the damper is fully seated on the crank. Remove the bolt and install the "real" bolt - torqued per the spec.
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