Just leaving Audi s3 world and bought my first turbo Mini ( had 4 R53 & R50s). My 09 Clubman S has a low boost 2885 issue. I’ve read every story about it online. More than once. Traced the boost from intake to intake manifold replacing vac pump and solenoid(lines good), diverter valve, map and boost sensors, checked every hose. I pulled 02 sensor and borescoped cat and wastegate operation under vacuum. Interior was a bit white and dry, cat and waste gate looks/ feels normal. No play in turbine or oil. Advanced linkage to the wastegate one rotation so the vacuum closed gate slightly sooner (10ish psi vs.15ish). I just replaced everything to know it’s new and at least OE manufacture.
I am only getting the 2885 and nothing else. It is predictable now only occurring when it is well heated up and outside temp is over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Right before, I feel the restriction on middling boost then bam 2885. Replaced intercooler with beefy unit which made it take longer to occur. K&N panel filter. Has anyone found a common reason where temperature makes it happen, then it recovers after cooling all the way down? Hot wastegate or cat? Something gets hot and fails temporarily. Groundhog Day.

New hpfp, low fuel pump, plugs and coils before it started happening. I replaced the muffler delete with factory clubman S axleback before it started. Also doesn’t ever hit 15 psi boost(peaks at 13.2 usually) on OBDLINK App gauge. I am at 5000 feet elevation and it is a OBD measurement, so not precise.It had a Downpipe and intercooler of some kind before I bought it with OEM put back on it. Would a tune make it miss boost targets after mufflers and stock pipe put back on. Previous owner is unreliable historian about anything but intercooler ( liar), but receipts showed love for the car.

Have an itching to buy a turbo,dp, manifold combo and assemble for total swap out. Whether or not it fixes the 2885. Is Mario and manic still a thing? Lol I used RMW for a couple tunes way back but it sounds like Mario has/ had the market for the turbo minis. I’ve loved a clubmans since 2008 so planning on restore or restomodding this one.

 

That code is usually related to a failing diverted valve, but could be a few other items. Here is the service path for that code according to https://bmwfault.codes

Service Notes
1. Check vacuum system for vacuum leaks.
2. Check intake system pressurized sector (between turbocharger and throttle valve).
3. Check wiring/plug on electropneumatic vacuum converter (open wire / unplugged).
4. Check operation of vacuum pump (measure vacuum generated).
5. Check dump valve.
6. Check operation / motion of wastegate (move WG directly using manual vacuum pump)
7. Determine whether the turbo shaft is loose and whether the turbocharger makes noise when turned by hand. Otherwise replace turbocharger.
8. Replace DME

Have you checked the vacuum accumulator? What about the vacuum lines from the pump, to the tank, to the wastegate? RealoOEM.com can be a good resource for part numbers and locations of parts.

I would try to get the code figured out before upgrading to a tune. Adding a tune to an engine that isn’t quite working right will just make things worse, or exaggerate any faults you have. When you’re ready @Lou@Prototype-R is a great guy and guru when it comes to tuning the engines in these cars.

 

1-7 covered. Replaced vac pump and vac converter. Checked vac lines visually and maintains vacuum by mityvac when installing new bits. All dry too When replacing diverter valve I pulled old one apart and diaphragm/everything was fine. I’m looking to tune so replacing turbo is already on the table to solve step 7 lol. In fact if she looks at me funny much longer I’m upgrading to JCW (don’t know if JMTC is as reliable as OEM) and stage1 or 2 if readiness can be addressed. Life begins at stage 2. Whatever it is causing 2885 is triggered by heat soak like condition and hope someone had that condition and found a solution. Replacing the vacuum tubes soon. After 3 supercharged minis I am doing my turbo mini right the first time.

 

To understand why it happens with heat soak, you have to understand how the DME works. The car does not make a predefined amount of boost. Essentially it sets a power target, and then does what is needed to hit the target, within the limitations of the boost parameters, timing, AFR etc.

There are a couple of reasons why you will not get the code when colder, and more likely when heatsoaked. When the engine is cold, and in warm up mode, the power targets are lower, so less boost delivered. When the engine is heat soaked, ambient temps are high, intake temperatures are higher, so more boost, or maximum boost is required to hit the power targets.

If you have a very small leak, it may only trigger the code at maximal boost. That sounds like what is happening in your circumstance

 

Occurs during middle pedal input around 6-10 psi (obd guage) especially a lazy incline. My next attempt is pulling the intake manifold and replacing the vacuum tank and lines. Leaving no question of maybe, later on. During intercooler install I did the turbo muffler and noise maker deletes checking each pipe connection in the circuit up to but not including throttlebody and intake manifold.

 

Installing JCW turbo and manifold this weekend along with smoke test and oil filter housing gasket replacement. Played with borescope and mityvac pump watching the wastegate “close” at different psi also tweaking linkage bolts up to 3 turns tighter. Now convinced it isn’t able to close (modulate?) as it should. 2885 still popped up on cue, though I did pick up a psi or two on WOT. It just can’t do the precision work during maintained mundane boost after heated up. Probably going to wish I’d bought a downpipe, but need to lock down this code before taking it to the next stage. Wallet could use a bit of refurbishment too. Tunes used to be $650 with a tool. Guess I’m getting old. Does anyone know if the Manic tune from Way would be good for the Jcw turbo, manifold and forged intercooler? 90k miles with automatic makes me want to start slow with the tuning after popping the stock turbo on my GTI with stage 2 tune.

 

I didn't see if you replaced your diverter valve or not...? 2885 means boost is lower than target. Of course, if your waste gate isn't closing all the way, that could do it. The diverter valve diaphragm tearing is a know issue, too, which can also cause 2885.

Steer clear of purchasing a Manic tune. Manic close up shop, so your new tune will have zero support. When you are ready for a tune, get in touch with @Lou@Prototype-R and he'll get you running right.

 

Replaced the diverter valve with new OEM, but old one was in good condition when I pulled it apart. I haven’t seen reviews for prototype-r, but price is nice.Thank you for the heads-up. I always went to Jan for a tune on my R53s.

 

Had JCW turbo and mani installed along with smoke test and couple of other repairs made. No boost leaks in system (outside turbo apparently). It was the turbo causing the low boost code, likely worn wastegate. Going from the asthmatic boost of the ailing stock turbo to the JCW is significant to say the least. Still a bit anxious when reproducing conditions, but it’s just pulls hard and stable now.