Hello, my name is Erick, I have a mini cooper s r56 n18, this whole problem with making it short started a few months ago when I had difficulty starting, then it simply stopped doing so, investigating I found that it could be corrosion in the fuse box Because I didn't check or know how to test the fuel pump, I thought it was the relay soldered in the fuse box, as some tutorials suggested, so quickly and quickly I removed my box and checked the relay, but to my surprise it was found. well, now I also found a little green corrosion on some of the terminals, thinking that that would be the whole problem, I washed the fuse board and the cables with vinegar and baking soda, but in the end this left with a lot of baking soda residue, so I bought electric cleaner and then thinner, but not before unpinning all the cables and their connectors to ensure better cleaning, I took photos of each cable and its connector, silly me I didn't realize that some cable colors were repeated in some connectors, well In the end, when I assembled the connectors and connected everything, the car still wouldn't start, only the starter motor came in but it wouldn't start, I got more tools and finally I tested the fuel pump and it turned out that this was the big fault, it was dead, no. It made no sound when I applied 12v to it with the tester, I completely changed the fuel pump along with the filter with which I had severe problems that I will tell about another day, but finally after months of being completely abandoned, the Mini Cooper returned to service. Life, I knew that several OBD codes were going to appear for leaving it without battery for so long, and this is where my first surprise comes, my scanner, a launch creader elite, could not start, if it received power because the scanner turned on, but there was no connection, I manually entered the chassis number and apparently it did not detect any module, then I proceeded to turn off the car and here the scan did work but my second surprise is that it sent me all kinds of codes, from failures in the esc system, low pressure in the high pressure pump, error in the levels of the left fuel pump reader and many more, my question is, because before this the car was running great, it is obvious that I re-pinned something wrong in the fuse box Does anyone have a diagram of all the cables in this damn box? Has anyone had a similar experience? From a video I saw, a short circuit causes one of the modules that connects several sensors to fail and causes poor communication with the OBD port. Someone please help me. I'm sure it's not the scanner since I connected another Bluetooth type. and there was no communication

 

Scout junk yards for matching N18 R56 Minis that could serve as donors for your junction box and junction box wire harnesses with connectors.

 

Hello, thank you for the response, but the basic problem is not the fuse box and the spare wiring, it is rather that within those cables I think I remember there were three connectors, there are cables of the same color, as far as I tested the fuse box it is fine , the relays work and with a tester I tested most of the fuses except for the micro fuses, the specific help is that I need a diagram of the 2012 mini Cooper s silver obd port, to know which color cables go to the obd and to the affected modules to be able to verify if the cables cross when reassembling them

 

Are many of the codes K-CAN line related?

 

Hello, thanks for the response, by k-can you mean istap tool? You will see the obd reader works if I open the switch without turning the car on, when I turn it on and it starts it is when it loses communication, likewise once it turns on it sends the check engine light, limits the power and multiple DSC errors, high emissions, RSP , etc., when I turn it off and the reader recovers communication, more errors appear that I can erase but they appear just moments after starting up again, I think that the diagram I am looking for is rather from the jbe fuse box, to be able to clearly identify which cable makes that things and reconnect well, that is my main suspicion, i forget i dont have istap

 

What you require are referred to as "connector pinouts" for all of the JBE connectors. I do not have these pin outs. They are not found in the factory service manual. If you are lucky, some other member will have access to them and will post the information.

Each JBE connector has a specific name, for example x11001, x11002, x11003, x11005, x11006, x11007, x11008, x11009, x11010, x14272, x34117, etc.

Your silver connector in the picture below has two adjacent K-CAN wires (green and orange/green), which identify the silver connector as either JBE connector x14272 or JBE connector x11002 (see diagram below). X14272 will also contain the two OBDII connector wires, which are yellow/brown & yellow/black.

 

 

Hello, thank you for the information, after reviewing the connections I was able to identify that the pinouts where the colors are repeated are x11009 and x11006, I tried to make multiple combinations by changing the cables and the only thing I could solve is that there is already communication with it obd port when they start it, and now I get fewer codes.
Some codes are related to the frm module, I don't have any problems with those, I have a way to reprogram them.

 

By the way, I already understood what you were referring to with k-can failures in the obd diagnosis, if at the beginning I had many codes related to the k-can, I mainly had DSC problems, I attach the first reading of the codes, and then the second , are the remaining codes, it is as if by connecting and disconnecting several times in the jbe, some errors had been corrected, however, even if I erased the codes it starts fine but after accelerating to more than 4rpm it remains limp mode

this is the first diagnostic after i change the lpfp

this is the second diagnostic after i move some pinouts
, it shows 5 to 7 bar on the rail of fuel and for a few seconds it is able to accelerate correctly and then it starts with the codes again.