Now with a simple flick of the high beams......door opens and closes.


When you press the garage door remote button, it is a switch that connects the remote with the power to send a signal to operate (open/stop/close) the garage door.

I reversed the process so that the "switch" is always on and the power is used (as a switch) to send the signal to open the garage door.

FOR EXAMPLE:
Remote with battery: Power source (battery) is always there, button is pressed to send the signal
Remote hard-wired to HI-beam: The button is by-passed with a wire that shorts the remote to always on "pressed" and the power (HI-Beam) is used to control when the signal gets sent.

If you are unsure how this works try this at home.
Open the remote so you can access the battery, take out the battery, then press "hold" the button down on the remote. With the button held down put the battery back in. Your door will open.

The Remote battery is replaced by hard-wiring (tapping) into the HI-Beam wire which is controlling when the signal is being sent.

NOTE: For those that like to run the HI-beam 24/7 you can choose to connect it to the LO-beam wire instead of the HI-beam wire. When the HI-beam is on no juice is sent to the LO-beam, when the LO-beam is on no juice is sent to the HI-beam, so either way will work.

NOTE:If you have DUAL HEADLIGHTS you will need to test your LO-Beam to check if it is a FULL-TIME LO. Flick the HI-Beam, if the LO does not switch to HI you cannot run this mod off your LO - it has to be installed on your HI.

The below picture shows you schematic on how it's connected. This can be applied to all cars or motorcycles with a 12 volt battery. You just need to find the HI-beam (or LO-beam) and ground wires, the installation is the same.

How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI, the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.

Take out the circuit board and turn it over (leave the battery installed)
Now refer to the picture. You'll see 4 points 2 of which are marked A and B. You will need to locate the 4 PINS (solder points) on your remote. It's pretty easy to find, where the button is you can turn it over and see the 4 points (hold it up to a light).

Now with a single wire or paperclip touch each end (of the wire or paperclip) to those points. (it's usually a diagonal connection but it may vary on different remotes) when you touch the two correct points the remote light will go on and the door will open, so listen for the door or watch it.

Once you located the two points, remember them or mark them
Now TAKE OUT the battery. Fit (measure) a piece of wire between those points and solder each end of wire to each point: you only need a small piece and do not expose too much wire at the ends: This will "short" the remote which is the same thing as the button being pressed. see pictures below



Wires coming out of head light bucket.


The garage door opener placement. It tucks right below (current placement for photo only)and no need to secure it as it fits perefectly snug.

 

How is that better then just pushing the button on the remote?

 

fwiw, I bought Flash2Pass and installed it. Easy install, except that I ended up soldering wires instead of using the supplied scotch-loks due to a poor wiring connection.

Works great. Two flashes of the high beams to activate the garage door.

The two flashes of the high beams activates its unit in the bonnet, which transmits to a sister unit on your garage door wall. That sister unit is wired into your garage door button. You don't use your remote.

 

A+ for ingenuity! Don't bash him for sharing his concept guys. I too didn't want to have an ugly garage door opener in my car. Being more mechanically inclined than elctrically, I bought a mini-circuit. I got gargage functionalitywith my door lock swithc plus auto -up windows and DSC on/off default.

 

Sorry, I guess I can see how that might be kinda cool.

 

Unless you have really ugly openers, I found that the tray under the emergency brake was a great place to put this. I used double edge tape to secure it. My interior is light gray/dark gray leatherette, which matchs my opener. It's simple, and handy.

 

The whole philosophy behind this mod is simple efficiency.

Prior to doing this, I would pull into the drive, the right hand goes up to hit the remote (on the visor above the driver’s window, then down to central unlock, then shift hands on the wheel to release the seat belt and guide it back to the stowed position with the left hand.

After the mod, my hands are already on the steering wheel, so one quick flick of the high beams while simultaneous flicking the central unlocking, and then the seat belt.

All I can say is try it…………see how easy this is. We used to get out of out vehicles to open the garage door, but now have remote. This is just extending that concept.

Besides………it cost nothing, no longer need to replace the battery, and it is very easy to do. I bet Kimi would approve.

 

I did a similar modification to my last car (2000 Mercury Cougar). Except I used a voltage regulator, relay and mounted it under the dash. Since I was using the trigger wire, I installed a relay so I wouldn't take much current off the trigger. I also used a voltage regulator because I didn't want to risk over time frying my 12V opener with 14V from the car. Worked great and since it was under the dash, I didn't have to worry about mosture.

With a controller in the mirror now, I'm going to move the module (relay, voltage regulator and all) into my DeLorean. Now neither of my cars will have an ugly and rattling opener!

Chris

 

YAY! finally another delorean guy in here!!!

 

That's awesome! James Bond would be proud.