Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

oil change prices

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  #1  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:29 PM
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oil change prices

I am about to reach 5000 miles and about to do my first oil change. Since I don't know how to do it myself, I'm going to bring it back to the dealer. I was expecting about $60 for oil change but I got quoted for $87. Is that a fair price? Can I go to other places like Jiffy Lube instead? Maybe I should just skip it and get my free one at 10k miles.

Thanks in advance
 
  #2  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:31 PM
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Take it anywhere just make sure they use synthetic oil.
 
  #3  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:37 PM
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You can take it anywhere you trust to have it changed, best bet is to bring your own oil, and maybe filter if they're no a BMW/MINI independant shop.

Personally I wouldn't trust Iffy Lube to oil the chain on my bike, but that's just me.

I get my non-covered changes done at an independant BMW service shop, been w/ them since my E30 days. My best advice is find a good one of these in your area, and build a relationship with them.. remember, your warranty won't be forever...
 
  #4  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:37 PM
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Skip it and wait until your 1st scheduled oil change at 10,000 miles, then it's free. During the mean time check your oil level periodicly and top it off if necessary with Castrol Synthetic. Changing your oil B4 it's due is just a waste of money.

CasaMini
 
  #5  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:39 PM
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For about $87, you can buy everything you need to do it yourself. It really isn't very hard and the price includes beer which the dealer rarely offers!

I'm not surprised that the dealer would charge this. Oil and filter amount to about $40 by themselves. . .

Read this thread here for a step by step tutorial on MINI oil change.

I use ramps instead of jack stands.

Ramps: $25
36mm socket: $6
13mm wrench: $5
Oil drain pan: $6
5 quarts of good synthetic oil: $30
oil filter: $8
6 pack favorite beer $7

Total: $87
 
  #6  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by blitz64
I was expecting about $60 for oil change but I got quoted for $87. Is that a fair price?
That's about right in the Northeast. I live in the DC area, but have had some work done as far north as NJ. Looking at my (way too OCD) maintenance log, my first oil change two years ago was $58; third was $62; fourth $63; sixth $73 and just last week, seventh $81. (Second and fifth were my two free oil changes). I kept going back to the dealer while it was under warranty just to check on software updates and check out the new MINIs. It costs a bit more at the dealer, but then there's all-you-can-eat bagles and free coffee... I've known two people who went to the [name omitted to save litigation] and they "forgot" to put the drain plug back in. One friend didn't figure this out until his car caught on fire about 100 miles from El Paso... Join BMW CCA and get 10-15% off parts and service.
 
  #7  
Old 01-18-2006 | 02:49 PM
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2006 | 03:51 PM
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i was quoted $80+ too... so just did it myself a few weeks ago.

Mobil1 and OE filter... like $40.
 
  #9  
Old 01-18-2006 | 05:33 PM
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I just had it changed at the dealer for $60. It probably wasn't necessary with only 4K on the clock, but going 10K on the first oil the engine has seen seems a bit long to me. I will follow Mini's recommended service intervals from here forward though.
 
  #10  
Old 01-18-2006 | 05:49 PM
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And the filter?...

Originally Posted by pooch1
Take it anywhere just make sure they use synthetic oil.
is that a standard item?
 
  #11  
Old 01-18-2006 | 05:50 PM
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Ditto!...

Originally Posted by CasaMini
Skip it and wait until your 1st scheduled oil change at 10,000 miles, then it's free. During the mean time check your oil level periodicly and top it off if necessary with Castrol Synthetic. Changing your oil B4 it's due is just a waste of money.

CasaMini
I agree entirely. Cars are built much better than they used to be.
 
  #12  
Old 01-18-2006 | 06:21 PM
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From: Your Worst Nightmare :)
$58 bucks Schomp MINI in Denver (when I paid for it @3000 miles, about a year ago.) They also change the oil & filter as a freebie courtesy if you've had the car for over a year and you're still aways from your first scheduled mtce. Nice people. JB

(I changed it at 3K because it just doesn't seem right to leave any oil, synth or not, in for 10K, esp. the way these little engines rev. Then that's just me.)
 
  #13  
Old 01-18-2006 | 06:26 PM
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From: Your Worst Nightmare :)
Originally Posted by fred3
is that a standard item?
Yes. JB
 
  #14  
Old 01-18-2006 | 06:33 PM
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Spiffy Lube probably does NOT have a genuine MINI oil filter though. I'd rather turn my car over to a troop of enraged baboons than let someone other than myself or a select mechanic do even a simple oil change.
 
  #15  
Old 01-18-2006 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blitz64
I am about to reach 5000 miles and about to do my first oil change. Since I don't know how to do it myself, I'm going to bring it back to the dealer. I was expecting about $60 for oil change but I got quoted for $87. Is that a fair price? Can I go to other places like Jiffy Lube instead? Maybe I should just skip it and get my free one at 10k miles.

Thanks in advance
Mailorder a half dozen oil filters from one of the tame MINI dealers and keep them on hand. It's not that hard to change the oil if you're mechanically inclined. If not, take it to a decent independant shop that works on BMW's.

I hate to start a rant, but after seeing some of these astounding prices, I'm glad that I've been working on my own cars for the last 20 years. If I was paying to have it done, I'd be living in a cardboard box by now!

Rawhyde
 
  #16  
Old 01-18-2006 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by YuccaPatrol
For about $87, you can buy everything you need to do it yourself. It really isn't very hard and the price includes beer which the dealer rarely offers!
I agree with Yucca. Changing the oil on a MINI isn't difficult and it will bring you and your MINI closer to one another You could also throw in a Fumoto valve. It goes in the place of the drain plug and is a simple but secure valve that makes it easy to drain your oil, but won't spontaneously open.
 
  #17  
Old 01-19-2006 | 12:45 PM
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I've only got 1k on my 06 MCS and I'm not thinking of changing the oil anytime soon. However, I was wondering what oil the factory puts in the new cars before they leave the plant. I'm sure I've read it somewhere but can't find it now.

Thanks
 
  #18  
Old 01-19-2006 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Timzmini
I've only got 1k on my 06 MCS and I'm not thinking of changing the oil anytime soon. However, I was wondering what oil the factory puts in the new cars before they leave the plant. I'm sure I've read it somewhere but can't find it now.

Thanks
Go back and read your manual and report back to us . Don't you hate it when people avoid answering your question? I think it is some secret formula for BMW--Castrol Synthetic 10W--something. I may need to go and read my manual. Nick
 
  #19  
Old 01-19-2006 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by YuccaPatrol
*snip* I'd rather turn my car over to a troop of enraged baboons than let someone other than myself or a select mechanic do even a simple oil change.
I couldn't have put it any better.
 
  #20  
Old 01-19-2006 | 04:35 PM
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Okay...so at $40 for parts, that leaves $47 for labor. How long does it take to properly change oil? What's the typical labor rate at any dealership? If it's about $100, then about 1/2 hour to change your oil. At my dealership, they also let me have a loaner car, and take care of any warranty or other issues. My car came back to me washed and vacuumed. So I don't think the dealer service is ripping you off. They just do a lot of things most mechanically inclined people don't really care about. If I were the change my own oil, I need to take out the stands, jack up the car, get into my overalls, make sure I have all the right size tools, etc. It takes me about an hour from the time I put on my overalls to the time I take them off to change my own oil and I leave a mess in the engine bay and my garage. I also have to maintain my tools and wash my overalls. You could probably get the parts cheaper via the wholesale route but is your time worth that? If it is, then save a bundle and change your own oil or have a trusted mechanic do it. Otherwise, though they are a bit on the expensive side, I trust my dealership to baby my car.

I am also of the understanding that there are other dealerships out there that do not do a very good job with your car. So beware.
 
  #21  
Old 01-19-2006 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CasaMini
Skip it and wait until your 1st scheduled oil change at 10,000 miles, then it's free. During the mean time check your oil level periodicly and top it off if necessary with Castrol Synthetic. Changing your oil B4 it's due is just a waste of money.

CasaMini
Before the oil change is due is subjective. No way 10,000 mile oil change interval can suit all cars in all areas.

A new engine sheds quite a bit of debris. Run your finger over a freshly machined cast iron block and it will come away quite dark. Under a microscope you'd see not only pieces of carbon but of iron too.

In fact, rub any machined surface of any part inside an engine and your finger will discolor as the skin removes lose particles.

Even a cast surface as most of the inside of an engine block is will shed iron, casting sand and the release agent that the sand is treated with.

Sure, these pieces are filtered by the oil filter (though if they come off in the oil passages after the filter not before they are carried by the oil to wherever the oil is headed, bearings, camshaft lobes, lifters, etc. before they are picked up by the oil pump and then directed to the oil filter...).

(The pieces that are too small to be filtered still of course continue to circulate with the oil. Some manufacturers that offer engines with variable camshaft timing and variable valve lift features add a second filter which filters out even these smaller particles to reduce the wear they can cause to these exotic valve systems.)

But because the engine sheds so much stuff, chances are high that the oil filter will become full and the oil will then be routed around the filter by the oil bypass valve. Better to even dirty oil than no oil at all flowing through the engine.

BTW, if one had a real oil filter gage he could tell when the oil filter becomes plugged for the oil pressure will change (which direction depends upon where the oil pressure sensor is located: ahead of the filter or after the bypass valve).

Anyhow, this means from the time the filter becomes full until the oil change the engine's running on non-filtered oil.

It gets worse. A new engine experiences increased blow-by as the ring/cylinder interface gradually becomes better at containing blow-by. For some engines, the ECU can use a special fuel map that results in a slightly richer mixture which helps to keep engine temperature down (to counter the increased engine temperture a new engine experiences mainly from internal friction). The downside is this puts even more fuel in the oil.

This blow-by contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, water, and other by-products of combustion.

Not only does this work to make the oil corrosive but also works to lower its viscosity.

A thinner dirtier oil is what the factory fill oil becomes. One can only hope it holds off doing this until just before the 10,000 mile oil change interval.

Unless the owners manual specifically forbids it, an early oil/filter service will remove this dirty oil and filter and replace it with fresh clean oil and a clean filter.

My new cars always get an early oil/filter change (around 1000 to 2000 miles) and then another one at 5000 miles. My new MINI will be no different.

Sincerely,

RockC.
 
  #22  
Old 01-19-2006 | 06:45 PM
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Very well said! Outstanding!

I try to encourage people to do a quick oil change on all new cars. In person, I'll usually explain it at the same level of detail as your excellent post, but I've never attempted such a detailed post.

The bottom line is that oil is cheap, engines ain't! You can never go wrong by taking the manufacturer's maintenance schedule as a suggested minimum maintenance schedule. I also change my plugs sooner than the book. After 20K miles on my 05 MCS/JCW, I saw that the plugs were badly fouled with carbon. After another 20K miles, I'll change the plugs again, plug wires, and I plan to remove the intercooler and give it a good cleaning inside and out. You simply cannot PM a mechanical device too much! To be fair, I DO enjoy wrenching on my cars, and usually I learn something new each time I dig into one.

Rawhyde

Originally Posted by RockC
Before the oil change is due is subjective. No way 10,000 mile oil change interval can suit all cars in all areas.

A new engine sheds quite a bit of debris. Run your finger over a freshly machined cast iron block and it will come away quite dark. Under a microscope you'd see not only pieces of carbon but of iron too.

In fact, rub any machined surface of any part inside an engine and your finger will discolor as the skin removes lose particles.

Even a cast surface as most of the inside of an engine block is will shed iron, casting sand and the release agent that the sand is treated with.

Sure, these pieces are filtered by the oil filter (though if they come off in the oil passages after the filter not before they are carried by the oil to wherever the oil is headed, bearings, camshaft lobes, lifters, etc. before they are picked up by the oil pump and then directed to the oil filter...).

(The pieces that are too small to be filtered still of course continue to circulate with the oil. Some manufacturers that offer engines with variable camshaft timing and variable valve lift features add a second filter which filters out even these smaller particles to reduce the wear they can cause to these exotic valve systems.)

But because the engine sheds so much stuff, chances are high that the oil filter will become full and the oil will then be routed around the filter by the oil bypass valve. Better to even dirty oil than no oil at all flowing through the engine.

BTW, if one had a real oil filter gage he could tell when the oil filter becomes plugged for the oil pressure will change (which direction depends upon where the oil pressure sensor is located: ahead of the filter or after the bypass valve).

Anyhow, this means from the time the filter becomes full until the oil change the engine's running on non-filtered oil.

It gets worse. A new engine experiences increased blow-by as the ring/cylinder interface gradually becomes better at containing blow-by. For some engines, the ECU can use a special fuel map that results in a slightly richer mixture which helps to keep engine temperature down (to counter the increased engine temperture a new engine experiences mainly from internal friction). The downside is this puts even more fuel in the oil.

This blow-by contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, water, and other by-products of combustion.

Not only does this work to make the oil corrosive but also works to lower its viscosity.

A thinner dirtier oil is what the factory fill oil becomes. One can only hope it holds off doing this until just before the 10,000 mile oil change interval.

Unless the owners manual specifically forbids it, an early oil/filter service will remove this dirty oil and filter and replace it with fresh clean oil and a clean filter.

My new cars always get an early oil/filter change (around 1000 to 2000 miles) and then another one at 5000 miles. My new MINI will be no different.

Sincerely,

RockC.
 
  #23  
Old 01-19-2006 | 07:04 PM
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I've been taking my MINI to the same local garage for a while for the oil change. They are great and absolutely are amazed at the engineering of the MINI. They charge $65 and use Mobil 1 synthetic with OEM filters. Great service.

And the young lady that always works on my car? There's something about a nice looking lady in a dirty mechanic uniform working on my MINI.

Yes, I admit it. I'm a man that doesn't change his own oil and instead a has a woman do it. She knows more than I'll ever know.
 
  #24  
Old 01-19-2006 | 07:09 PM
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Do they break in the MINI engine before it is installed. MY HEMI as I was told was run before.

My take is this if the manufacture will warranty the engine then their service interval is valid. Think about it Why would MINI want 400,000 cars running around in 5 years needing rebuilds?

There are guys there that have this all figured out and if they say 10k miles then 10k miles it is. Just be THANKFULL they don't say you need to have it done every 2k miles at your own dime or your warranty is void!
 
  #25  
Old 01-19-2006 | 09:29 PM
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Oil changes

I run an automobile shop service business and go into many local shops. I have learned much over the years.

One,There are 2 good synthetic oils in theis order:
# 1. Red Line
#2. Mobile 1

Corvette requires Mobile 1. I have used it in all my vehicles running some times 15,000 before changing. One of those vehicles I sold at 140,000 mile and last I saw it was still running fine at 240,000. I have a small oil test kit I use to test when the oil is in need of changing. I do my own oil changing as do my daughter and son as I taught them also.

Two, NEVER use a franchised service center if possible.,except maybe tires.
especially Jiffy Lube or othewr quick lube places. The franchice takes a big cut of the profits so the personal are paid less than a good shop or dealership. Jiffy Lube often uses young kids with litttle training.

I have heard many stories of ruined engines when the drain plugs were stripped at the Jiffy Lubs and the engines ran out of oil. Jiffy Lube always says it was that way when it came in.

If you don't like a dealership, many private garages are run by former techs who worked in dealerships and broke away to start their own businesses. Many of these are excellent and up to date on all facets of technology and can be very helpful.

Ask people who they like.

Bob Merriam, Santa Cruz, ca
 



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