Lies and more Lies...
#26
Originally Posted by ProfessorDave
I feel your pain re: the Helix SS. I wish you had read my recent post at https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ix+short+shift before you started. I included a tip on getting the ball joint off the shifter that didn't provoke or annoy a single monkey. Obviously, this was all karma for skipping your class
I'm impressed that you got the exhaust bolts loose in only a couple of hours. I don't blame you for leaving them loose after all thr trouble you went to getting them off.
The rear sway bar was going to be my next project, so I'm curious about how it goes.
I'm impressed that you got the exhaust bolts loose in only a couple of hours. I don't blame you for leaving them loose after all thr trouble you went to getting them off.
The rear sway bar was going to be my next project, so I'm curious about how it goes.
Originally Posted by Leel
As far as the sway bar goes, be very careful with the shock tower bolts. It is best to replace them, but if you want to reuse (lots of people have done) make sure not to go above 50-55 ft-lbs. IF you try to go 80 like the book says, you might just need to drill one out like I did. That is a good way to add an hour or 2 to the install.
Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
Hmmm. Mine was quite easy - just used a floor jack and it snugged right up.
Note - the lower shock bolt is TIGHT. Spare your tricep and use a cheater bar.
Note - the lower shock bolt is TIGHT. Spare your tricep and use a cheater bar.
Originally Posted by motorsports_3
Lowering the shock on one sdie makes it so much easier.
I installed everything on my car (look at my sig) including the SS and sway. By far the hardest thing was the SS.
I installed everything on my car (look at my sig) including the SS and sway. By far the hardest thing was the SS.
#27
#28
#30
#31
It took me an hour and half to install my BM short shifter. yes it is a *****. The key is to take your time and try not to get angry! I know the last part is hard! The key to get the cable off of the shifter is to use a 12mm wrench (I think) and put it between where the cable ball is and where it connects to the shifter. Slowly use some leverage and it should pry right off. It did for me. I stayed away from using channel locks as I did not want to bend the cable! Well at least you can now enjoy the better shifting!
Garrett
Garrett
#34
#36
#37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leel
As far as the sway bar goes, be very careful with the shock tower bolts. It is best to replace them, but if you want to reuse (lots of people have done) make sure not to go above 50-55 ft-lbs. IF you try to go 80 like the book says, you might just need to drill one out like I did. That is a good way to add an hour or 2 to the install.
What do you other guys think about this advice?
I also took a quick look beneath the car and where is the jacking point for the rear?
Originally Posted by Leel
As far as the sway bar goes, be very careful with the shock tower bolts. It is best to replace them, but if you want to reuse (lots of people have done) make sure not to go above 50-55 ft-lbs. IF you try to go 80 like the book says, you might just need to drill one out like I did. That is a good way to add an hour or 2 to the install.
What do you other guys think about this advice?
I also took a quick look beneath the car and where is the jacking point for the rear?
#38
On those exhaust nuts/bolts: PB Blaster is your FRIEND! That stuff is great when it comes to removing siezed fasteners. The exhaust system especially. Problem is it stinks like hell after it heats up & starts to burn off...but if you can deal with the smell for a short while, it is much better than pulling your tricep tendon.
Sorry to find ammusement in ones plight, but your story was most entertaining. Oh well, you have to start somewhere. My first horror story was taking a bath in hot antifreeze when changing a radiator in an old Benz 450SEL 6.9-which had a TON of coolant. Not fun...
Sorry to find ammusement in ones plight, but your story was most entertaining. Oh well, you have to start somewhere. My first horror story was taking a bath in hot antifreeze when changing a radiator in an old Benz 450SEL 6.9-which had a TON of coolant. Not fun...
#39
Originally Posted by MINIotaple
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leel
As far as the sway bar goes, be very careful with the shock tower bolts. It is best to replace them, but if you want to reuse (lots of people have done) make sure not to go above 50-55 ft-lbs. IF you try to go 80 like the book says, you might just need to drill one out like I did. That is a good way to add an hour or 2 to the install.
What do you other guys think about this advice?
I also took a quick look beneath the car and where is the jacking point for the rear?
Originally Posted by Leel
As far as the sway bar goes, be very careful with the shock tower bolts. It is best to replace them, but if you want to reuse (lots of people have done) make sure not to go above 50-55 ft-lbs. IF you try to go 80 like the book says, you might just need to drill one out like I did. That is a good way to add an hour or 2 to the install.
What do you other guys think about this advice?
I also took a quick look beneath the car and where is the jacking point for the rear?
Evidently the bolts are really made for one time use, but I do not think anyone has had issues down teh road with reusing them. Then again, you can buy a new blt at a hardware store for 35 cents, so if I do it again, I will start with new one from the get go. Not a good feeling having the head come off of that one.
#40
I am happy to announce that my sway bar installation has been completed and it was pretty easy.
Tips
1) When loosening tight nuts, use leverage. I took apart my jack handle, slipped it on the ratchet handle and used that for leverage to untighten and then retighten.
2) Use a jack to raise the rear subframe when reassembling the car.
3) Don't forget to tighten the nuts on the sway bar. It'll make a thumping sound when you drive away.
Tips
1) When loosening tight nuts, use leverage. I took apart my jack handle, slipped it on the ratchet handle and used that for leverage to untighten and then retighten.
2) Use a jack to raise the rear subframe when reassembling the car.
3) Don't forget to tighten the nuts on the sway bar. It'll make a thumping sound when you drive away.
#41
Watch this technique
Originally Posted by MINIotaple
I took apart my jack handle, slipped it on the ratchet handle and used that for leverage to untighten and then retighten.
But if you keep doing this to the ratchets, they'll get sloppy, and what really sucks is that you'll get really pissed that the slop messes with how many clicks you'll get to use in tight spaces....
Matt
#42
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
the guts of ratchets aren't that strong... Get a breaker bar, then slide on the jack handle... Then you can actually twist off the welded on studs on the front suspension of 94 explorers! Ask me how I know!
But if you keep doing this to the ratchets, they'll get sloppy, and what really sucks is that you'll get really pissed that the slop messes with how many clicks you'll get to use in tight spaces....
Matt
But if you keep doing this to the ratchets, they'll get sloppy, and what really sucks is that you'll get really pissed that the slop messes with how many clicks you'll get to use in tight spaces....
Matt
#43
But you will end up with...
Originally Posted by MINIotaple
Yeah, the ratchets actually popped on me twice. I smashed my thumb as a result, but I figured I wanted it to be as tight as I could get it. I'm also not too worried about my tools, since they're from a cheap durabilt kit that I got for ~$20 at Target. I really didn't want to build up a tool collection without owning a garage.
And congrats at getting the rear bar in. How do you like it?
Matt
#44
Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
a drawer full of crappy, sloppy ratchets! Ask me how I know!
And congrats at getting the rear bar in. How do you like it?
Matt
And congrats at getting the rear bar in. How do you like it?
Matt
I haven't gotten a chance to take the MINI out on some of my favority roads since yesterday night was Fat Tuesday and I didn't want to be meeting any cars in the middle of the night, but the rear does feel tighter, the ride is a bit more jarring, and it seems like the car wants to go more in the direction I want it to go (i.e. - less understeer).
#45
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Originally Posted by MINIotaple
I know. I know. I just intend on getting better tools down the line. The socket wrench set that came in the tool package were just poor quality. When I was trying to install my HAI, the socket fell off the extension several times, one that I was never able to find. I ended up going to home depot and buying a 10mm socket and it was so much better. It fit snugly and for some reason just had a better air of quality to it.
I haven't gotten a chance to take the MINI out on some of my favority roads since yesterday night was Fat Tuesday and I didn't want to be meeting any cars in the middle of the night, but the rear does feel tighter, the ride is a bit more jarring, and it seems like the car wants to go more in the direction I want it to go (i.e. - less understeer).
I haven't gotten a chance to take the MINI out on some of my favority roads since yesterday night was Fat Tuesday and I didn't want to be meeting any cars in the middle of the night, but the rear does feel tighter, the ride is a bit more jarring, and it seems like the car wants to go more in the direction I want it to go (i.e. - less understeer).
#46
#47
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Originally Posted by MINIotaple
The lighest setting on the moment. I wanted to test the waters first. The roads I run aren't very forgiving.
#48
Originally Posted by weezer2282
I put mine on that too. Started out at the middle and went to the softest. The middle was fine for everyday street driving, but a little stiffer and jarring. Handled great, but just got a little scary at higher speeds on twisty country roads. The softest is plenty for me.
#50
Originally Posted by weezer2282
Not unless I'm dodging SUVs.I did notice it on HWY 71 though...one stretch was really bumpy. They made it out of like 3ft. wide pieces of concrete.The rear was less forgiving than the front.
Crap, I'm screwed then. Isn't that what SUVs are for, dodging, that is?