Auto lock not working
#27
Nope, haven't even called Classic to get a quote on the parts, been out of town traveling.
Did Internal Failure of lock actuator mean that the lock actuator solenoid burned up?
Maybe it will have to wait till Spring.
If it was a Saturn it would still be working, those freaking Lucas parts are haunting the MINI.
I will fix the stupid thing myself, still using the key to lock it.
#28
ProfessorDave
That's kookie talk. I have 800 miles left before my warranty is up, and will be having this fixed (drivers side) Friday (I'll post what the exact problem is...don't want to be one of those who don't provide closure!). But I'd live with it if I were out of warranty.
What was the part that failed? Did you get your old part back and if so can you post a picture of it.
Anybody out there with pictures of this part???
I have found some after market solenoid actuators that may work and have better reliability. If it work's out I will post a how to with pictures.
I only want to do this once.
#31
Norm03s,
It appears that you want to retrofit the actuator somehow, but I don't think that is worth your time or money. 80% chance chance it is your actuator. You will need to remove the window and regulator and then adjust window. A spanner is needed to remove the window. You can get this at MINI or I can email you the dimensions to source/make your own.
If you want to know 100% you can unplug the actuator connector and check for power and ground while activating the lock. This will rule out the bc and wiring. This will require the wiring diagram and knowledge of how the lock is actuated. Set up a matrix that reflects the voltage at each pin when it is locked/unlocked and compare it to the working lock. This will give you enough info to figure it out.
My advice is to replace the actuator if you are not willing to use the dealer or diagnose it yourself.
#32
DIY, thats me
Norm03s,
It appears that you want to retrofit the actuator somehow, but I don't think that is worth your time or money. 80% chance chance it is your actuator. You will need to remove the window and regulator and then adjust window. A spanner is needed to remove the window. You can get this at MINI or I can email you the dimensions to source/make your own.
If you want to know 100% you can unplug the actuator connector and check for power and ground while activating the lock. This will rule out the bc and wiring. This will require the wiring diagram and knowledge of how the lock is actuated. Set up a matrix that reflects the voltage at each pin when it is locked/unlocked and compare it to the working lock. This will give you enough info to figure it out.
My advice is to replace the actuator if you are not willing to use the dealer or diagnose it yourself.
It appears that you want to retrofit the actuator somehow, but I don't think that is worth your time or money. 80% chance chance it is your actuator. You will need to remove the window and regulator and then adjust window. A spanner is needed to remove the window. You can get this at MINI or I can email you the dimensions to source/make your own.
If you want to know 100% you can unplug the actuator connector and check for power and ground while activating the lock. This will rule out the bc and wiring. This will require the wiring diagram and knowledge of how the lock is actuated. Set up a matrix that reflects the voltage at each pin when it is locked/unlocked and compare it to the working lock. This will give you enough info to figure it out.
My advice is to replace the actuator if you are not willing to use the dealer or diagnose it yourself.
I would really appreciate your offer on the tool specification. I make my own tools or modify others when needed. Please send that info for the spanner tool.
Dr Obnxs
Check RealOEM.com
they'll have line drawings.....
Just want to see if the actuators I have found are adaptable to the MINI lock assembly and a picture would help rather than an exploratory mission and disassembly of the entire door.
#33
Mine was key only, drivers side. Remote & interior toggle both worked fine for the pass. side. To check mine I just smacked the door near the handle/ actuator area while clicking the remote. Gee it unlocked or unlocked. Old lucas trick. That ruled out the body control module being at fault. After a week or so of smack & click therapy it started working fine again. Thats been a good 6 mo. months now. Worth a try!
#34
Thanks namwob
Mine was key only, drivers side. Remote & interior toggle both worked fine for the pass. side. To check mine I just smacked the door near the handle/ actuator area while clicking the remote. Gee it unlocked or unlocked. Old lucas trick. That ruled out the body control module being at fault. After a week or so of smack & click therapy it started working fine again. Thats been a good 6 mo. months now. Worth a try!
By the way, don't you work at a place in Texas that does ceramic coating?
#35
Yes, but if you want to coat the actuator guts I'd suggest a graphite molly combo. Kidding--- maybe. Now, the window guide rails YES<YES<YES Dry film lubricats are sweet.
#36
norm03s,
I am also extreemly diy. The only reason I can see to retrofit this would be for personal satisfaction of the job, not reliability. Between my family and myself, we have 2 bmw's and 3 minis with over 80k miles each. None of them have had a failed actuator. "Most likely to fail" and "frequently fail" are two differrent things. I think this is a case of the former.
If you don't already know, these actuators use motors that reverse the polarity to lock/unlock rather than two actuators. You'll have one more hurdle if your car has the doulbe lock feature.
If you are that motivated to do it, go for it! I'll help if I can.
Oh, and I will get you the specs for the spanner this week.
I am also extreemly diy. The only reason I can see to retrofit this would be for personal satisfaction of the job, not reliability. Between my family and myself, we have 2 bmw's and 3 minis with over 80k miles each. None of them have had a failed actuator. "Most likely to fail" and "frequently fail" are two differrent things. I think this is a case of the former.
If you don't already know, these actuators use motors that reverse the polarity to lock/unlock rather than two actuators. You'll have one more hurdle if your car has the doulbe lock feature.
If you are that motivated to do it, go for it! I'll help if I can.
Oh, and I will get you the specs for the spanner this week.
#37
I was trying to remember your sceen name to recommend your shop for coating a header the other day.
#38
#39
#40
Please post the results here
I'm out of warranty and want to see what is failing.
#41
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