Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Auto lock not working

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  #1  
Old 05-25-2006, 09:51 AM
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Auto lock not working

For the past week or so, I've had some issues with my passenger side door. The lock does not respond to either the key unlock button or the central lock toggle switch. In order to lock it, I have to reach over and push the button down. (Major bummer, I know!) And in order to unlock, I have to open the door from the inside. Has anyone heard of this happening before?

Other than that, my MINI has performed almost flawlessly for 3+ years and 70K+ miles.
 
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Old 05-25-2006, 10:04 AM
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Since the rest work...

it's probably the wiring to the solenoind that works that door, the solenoid, or the driver on the BC1 that controls that lock. I don't think there's an easy way to tell without getting the car scanned (the BC1 may have an error code that helps with diagnostics) or taking the door panal off and doing some testing/troubleshooting.

Matt
 
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Old 05-26-2006, 03:16 PM
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lock not responding to remote or central lock toggle switch

Same thing here only with the driver's side door.
I'm wondering if the chronic "film"/moisture on the inside of the window and the persisitent mildew smell could be related or causal.
The dealer never satisfactorily solved those issues and will not cover the door lock under warranty as I now have 52K miles.
 
  #4  
Old 05-26-2006, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by VAmini
For the past week or so, I've had some issues with my passenger side door. The lock does not respond to either the key unlock button or the central lock toggle switch. In order to lock it, I have to reach over and push the button down. (Major bummer, I know!) And in order to unlock, I have to open the door from the inside. Has anyone heard of this happening before?

Other than that, my MINI has performed almost flawlessly for 3+ years and 70K+ miles.
Scottsdale dealer just fixed mine under warrantee week before.
 
  #5  
Old 05-27-2006, 08:16 AM
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Any clue...

Originally Posted by 89AKurt
Scottsdale dealer just fixed mine under warrantee week before.
what they did? Wiring, solenoid or BC1?

Matt
 
  #6  
Old 07-21-2006, 11:00 AM
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Reviving this thread, as our passenger door just started this behavior as well. Also out of warranty, so knowing what was done would be a huge help.
 
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:42 AM
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Bump, Sorry to see this same thing over and over

Originally Posted by GRNSTRK2
Reviving this thread, as our passenger door just started this behavior as well. Also out of warranty, so knowing what was done would be a huge help.

Yeah I'd like to know too!


The larger problem is people that use the forum but don't post the resolution after they get what they wanted out of it.
Some of us out here that are out of warranty are here so we can learn about/fix/maintain our MINI's ourselves.
This is supposed to be a forum, discuss, share and disseminate information about MINI's.
 
  #8  
Old 10-24-2006, 06:49 AM
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It happened top me a few months ago. I took it to the dealer and it was a 400 dollar fix. I had to get a new motor for the locking mechanism and labor, or at least that is what I was told. I can look up exactly what the service reciept said when I get home after work.
 
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:32 AM
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Well, I think that's probably the least painfull it could have been...

other choices were the BC1, not cheap, or a wiring harness, not easy to change..... But the price was still a bummer!

Matt
 
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:56 AM
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Same thing happened to my driver's door latch around 85,000 miles or so. Waylen (Way Motorworks) replaced the latch and everything is back to normal again. Contact Waylen for specifics.

Scott
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  #11  
Old 10-24-2006, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by golden_child
It happened top me a few months ago. I took it to the dealer and it was a 400 dollar fix. I had to get a new motor for the locking mechanism and labor, or at least that is what I was told. I can look up exactly what the service reciept said when I get home after work.

golden_child, that would most certainly be appreciated.
Just to be clear about the problem with my MCS is the only way to lock or unlock the drivers side door is with the key.
This just happened one day, one day it worked next day it didn't.
Am I spoiled by convenience.
 
  #12  
Old 10-24-2006, 11:05 AM
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<Just to be clear about the problem with my MCS is the only way to lock or unlock the drivers side door is with the key.
This just happened one day, one day it worked next day it didn't.>




My symptoms exactly. Yes, it is annoying and the remote unlocking is addictive. It's your latch, and the part cost should be less than $300. Call Waylen and he can help you out. No need to go to the dealer for it, unless their parts pricing is competitive. Way might be able to get it cheaper for you.

Scott
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 90STX
<Just to be clear about the problem with my MCS is the only way to lock or unlock the drivers side door is with the key.
This just happened one day, one day it worked next day it didn't.>




My symptoms exactly. Yes, it is annoying and the remote unlocking is addictive. It's your latch, and the part cost should be less than $300. Call Waylen and he can help you out. No need to go to the dealer for it, unless their parts pricing is competitive. Way might be able to get it cheaper for you.

Scott
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Was it the latch or a broken part in the latch or is it an adjustment. I need to look this up in my manual to see if the parts are exploded for the door latch. Maybe there is a TSB on it.
Would you PM him ( Way ) to join this thread.
 
  #14  
Old 10-24-2006, 03:04 PM
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Electronics are not my thing, but I suppose it was a relay or solenoid that actually failed. The latch comes as an assembly, not individual pieces, so it doesn't really matter too much.

Waylen was in England racing at Donnigton Park this past weekend, so I'm not sure how available he is to join a thread. However, he can be reached at miniguru7@yahoo.com or via cell at 317-201-8670. I'm not giving out secrets, as he is a NAM vendor. I suspect the email might be pretty full since he's been traveling for awhile (and going to the west coast soon too), so the phone might be your best bet.

Scott
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2006, 05:44 AM
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bump, lets get these two threads together
 
  #16  
Old 10-25-2006, 05:53 AM
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It happened top me a few months ago. I took it to the dealer and it was a 400 dollar fix.
That's kookie talk. I have 800 miles left before my warranty is up, and will be having this fixed (drivers side) Friday (I'll post what the exact problem is...don't want to be one of those who don't provide closure!). But I'd live with it if I were out of warranty.
 
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Old 10-25-2006, 07:44 AM
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Thanks, ProfessorDave

Originally Posted by ProfessorDave
That's kookie talk. I have 800 miles left before my warranty is up, and will be having this fixed (drivers side) Friday (I'll post what the exact problem is...don't want to be one of those who don't provide closure!). But I'd live with it if I were out of warranty.
I'm out of warranty but determined to fix it myself without going to the dealer for the GOLDEN fix of a door latch for $300.00-$400.00, that's just stupid outrageous.
That money could be used for a new set of tires.

goldenchild, did you find that info on this problem?

By the way all info provided is much appreciated.
 
  #18  
Old 12-07-2006, 11:41 AM
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Bumpity bump, not fixed yet, still using the key and Winters here........ nuts
 
  #19  
Old 12-07-2006, 11:55 AM
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Yikes!!! I forgot I was going to post info on the door lock. I'll look once I get home. I just sent myself a reminder email.
 
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Old 12-07-2006, 12:08 PM
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Thanks, looking forward to what you got.
 
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:10 PM
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here you go.

LABOR
Electrical Tech(s): 109 $268.00

RT doorlock Inop
Internal Failure of lock actuator
Replace Passenger Side Door lock assembly. Function test. ok


PARTS
51-20-0-556-769 Door Lock $83.33


plus shop supplies and tax the grand total was $360.83
 
  #22  
Old 12-08-2006, 09:52 AM
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Dang, tuff to get to and gold plated to boot.
Thanks for the part Number, I'll contact Classic to buy the part.
This will have to be a warm weather fix, may wait till Spring.
 
  #23  
Old 12-08-2006, 09:57 AM
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This was the passenger side. I don't know if there are left and right part numbers
 
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Old 12-08-2006, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by golden_child
This was the passenger side. I don't know if there are left and right part numbers
Your probably right on that one, I've dealt with car door locks before on other cars.

So now at 52K I'm replacing a electric door lock and a Getrag:
BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
23140409754

I have to say this, I drove a 1997 Saturn SC2 from 7 miles to 163,000. miles and never had a electric door lock, electric window or backup light switch problem.
Are we sure they aren't sourcing parts from Lucas, I have had my share of British sports cars

Alexander Graham Bell invented the telephone. Thomas Edison invented the light bulb. Joseph Lucas invented the short circuit.

Lucas -- inventor of the first intermittent wiper.

Lucas -- inventor of the self-dimming headlamp.

The three-position Lucas switch -- DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings -- SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.

The original anti-theft devices -- Lucas Electric products.

"I've had a Lucas pacemaker for years and have never experienced any prob...."

If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either.

Did you hear about the Lucas-powered torpedo? It sank.
 
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:36 AM
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Aha, Door locks again!
 


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