Not to thread jack, but how many miles are people typically getting out of clutches? My 03 MCS has 66k mi, no prob, and I can still scratch second. ( I know grandpa, its not good for the car) I haven't noticed any real change in my clutch.


And so this isn't a complete thread jack, my $.02: DON"T DOWN SHIFT!! It's ok if you double clutch or "speed match" your gears, but in general, not a good practice. More un-necessary wear on the clutch.
And BTW, how do you have that car at younger that 18? I'm jealous. I wish I had mine when I was that age. Although mabey better that I didn't.

 

Yeah! what he said! (replace 40k w/ 24k)... yeah- tinfoil!

 

My '02 is at 116k and I'm contimplating installing a new clutch. MINI of MtView said I should put one in the last time I had the car in there (around 110k) but I didn't have the money ($2,900.00) and it still drives fine. I did pick up a new clutch (on sale during Mini Mania's Open House) so when I get some free time I'll have a mechanic do the install - I save $1,000.00!).

T

 

FWIW, I paid $800 for a clutch on my '02 MCS with 70,000 mile on it from an independent mechanic (Steve's Auto Clinic if you're in L.A.). I have to say I was very disappointed to have to do that. I've been driving stick for 17 years and this is the first car I have ever had clutch problems with.

 

one factor is driving conditions: some are on low-traffic flats. Others (ahem) in high traffic, hilly terrain (SF) which hurts
another is driving style: downshifting, riding the clutch, losing patience, doing stupid things on hills (all of which I *was* guilty of in a previous life)
yet another is build quality: I have no sense of where the MCS clutch and flywheel is expected to break down, and under what conditions

I've just taken it for granted that I'll have a clutch replacement sooner than I want in the city, but I'm certainly doing my best to mitigate the factors I can consciously control. Since moving to this car, I've been keeping my foot off the clutch pedal, using idle in slow traffic, moving to neutral at stop lights, and in general, trying to be mindful of it. That all said, I'm at 2.4K miles and still paranoid...ha...

 

Just to continue on the "expected" life of a clutch on MINIs...

My 03 MCS is currently on its 3rd clutch. First replacement was done at 26K miles (under warranty) when "friction" developed while depressing the clutch. It became progressively worse... The second replacement was done few days ago at 52K miles (again, under warranty, but required authorization from regional manager). This time, a "click" appeared while releasing the clutch after driving for 30 min or so. It took some effort to demonstrate this to the dealer, but the regional manager was fantastic at diagnosing the problem and authorizing the repairs.They replaced A LOT more items this time. As far as I know, there is a 2 year/24Kmiles warranty on the new parts. I hope I wont have to use it...

And for the record, I dont downshift or ride the clutch. I am sure being stuck in LA traffic often has its share...

 

What did you guys notice to promote checking/replacing the clutch (i.e. slipping, noise, vibration, grinding, squilling, jumpy, smell...)????

I have noticed certain low pitch vibration/resonance type of sound/feeling - only when cold - at 3K rpm on first gear that goes away after warming up... Your thoughts?

 

it's tough to determine what is normal wear and loosening of the clutch and shifter, and what is an early-warning sign, to me. Instills paranoia in anyone who's gone through one before...

 

Not sure if I understand the whole "down shifting" is bad thing...isn't that how a standard tranny is supposed to be driven? The owners manual does not come out and say no down shifting and if the clutch does go bad early because of normal use then I guess MINI is replacing at there expense/

 

Most clutch assemblies will last from 60,000 to 80,000 miles. It heavily depends on the driver.

The clutch pedal should NEVER stay depressed while one sits at a stop. Always pop it into neutral. Only depress the clutch pedal when actually shifting. Takes barely a second to pop it back into 1st gear and go.

Downshifting is fine. It's a trade-off between more clutch operation, and brake wear.

 

Also keep your foot off the clutch unless you are using it.. Even a slight pressure on the pedal can wear out the throw-out bearing.

 

gromit, how the hecjk are you supposed to deal with traffic? You seriously NEVER have your foot on the clutch? I understood it to be OK if limited to stop signs, short lights, etc.

 

Fast foot and hand coordination. I have never had the clutch pedal depressed except to change gears or pop it into neutral. Many times in traffic I'll pop it into neutral and coast while the traffic makes up it's mind, then select a gear and go, or hit the brakes and stop.

Keeping it depressed WILL cause the early demise of the throw out bearing (one third of the clutch assembly). Working the clutch in traffic is, yes a pain, but the fast operation won't wear out the clutch nearly as fast as keeping it depressed.

It is NEVER ok to keep the clutch in while stopped. Unless you LIKE changing clutches every 20,000 miles.

Carve that in stone.

 

jeez, good to know.

 

I knew my degree in automotive technology would come in handy someday. I sure don't use it in my chosen profession!

 

Got to agree with Gromit on this one.

Once you get into the habit, you will always pop a manual into neutral at a light or stuck in rush hour traffic.

As to downshifting, it depends upon why ...

if you want to accelerate quickly, then downshift. otherwise, as they say ... "brakes are cheaper than transmissions"

 

This should clarify some confusion here Thanks!

 

Quite true Chow. I don't downshift at every corner. I'll coast for the most part, brake, shift into second, and off I go. Like everything else in driving, each situation must be evaluated for the best course of action. When I autocross or am on a twisty road, I will always downshift through the gears because I always want power immediately at hand.

 

Here's a pretty good, basic instruction about how a clutch works.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

 

do you guys double-clutch when downshifting?

 

That's really not necessary with an all synchro gear box. Double clutching was mainly how one dealt with a non-synchro box.

 

Hello,
my MSC has 14,115 miles. Last Friday I got in and started my MCS and put in in reverse....had to use a little muscle. When driving to work it was a little hard to shift between gears. About half way to work it started shifting fine. After being at work for a couple of hours; I ran an errand. No problem shifting to and from. The car sat for a couple of hours and then when I was going to to leave for lunch .....the car wouldn't go into to gear. I was only able to shift in reverse with some difficulty... .
Prior to this happening the brake and DSC light were on for about a week. I had made an appointment for Wed.(8/16/06) to take care of the light issue. Anyhow had to leave my car at work and had it towed to Assael Mini in Monrovia Ca. on Sat. They said they will work on it Today (Mon. 8/14/06).
Waiting to hear what is going on with it. So far the only complaint I have is that the dealer wouldn't give me a loaner... . I am lucky in that i was able to use the company car.. . I will post outcome once I know what is going on.
Any thoughts of why the clutch would go out so early?

 

Ew. Sounds like pressure plate. Maybe?

 

the clutch is self adjusting so if you are experiencing problem with the engagement point, you may have a worn clutch disk. since the car only has 11k miles you might be able to get it done under warranty. if you can have one of your parents call not you because being so young puts you on the "kids are just driving like crazy these days" category. not where you want to be under this condition. good luck!

 

Thanks for the input,
I just got back from the dealer. The master clutch cylinder was the problem. They replaced it; yes under warranty... No charge; just the time to pickup the my mini. Well I'm glad it got fixed. They said my brake and DSC light being on were indications of the problem. The manual says when both of these two light are simoutaneously it means the DSC is not working... ...go figure. anyhow I'm motoring once again... .