Although the car was better after changing the sensor, it did take a few days of hard driving to get back to normal.

 

Did you just clear the code with like a peak tool? Or just unplug battery for like more than 15 minutes? Or...

 

you can use if you need to. Just let me know.....

Matt

 

Thats a plan, I can bring your TB, stop at MOMV and buy the part (cross fingers they have one in) and come up and give you ur TB back and clear my codes.

 

But on Monday I'll be at Gary Anderson's house doing some "DIY" stuff for the next issue of MC Squared. I'll PM you my cell and location (and it's closer to MoMV than I live.....).

Matt

 

Cool....how come that name sounds really familiar...

 

the editor for MC Squared.....

Matt

 

misfit, I jsut pm'd campos about this. It may speed up your visit to mini to know that the map sensor part # ends in 648 and the t-map in 679.

I cleared the codes with that palm scanner you saw at the run. When your at dr. o's, please check and note what your long term fuel trims are before making any changes. The car has to be running and either driving at part throttle or revving. you'll see the numbers go from 0 up if you rev it at idle. Also note your codes for comparison. I want to know for sure what causes these issues.

I will eventually change the t-map too, but wanted to pin down the primary cause first. Maybe even the cam and crank sensor while I'm at it. The latter will leave you stranded.

Let us know how it goes.

 

so I want this one

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=35&hl=12

Number 12

 

Alright, so it didn't help...but when I stopped by and saw Matt we found some things out...tomorrow me and jason will tear into my harness some to make sure.

But it looks like MINI of Mt View botched my wiring harness when they replaced it and now it is shorting...causing my problems.

Will know more tomorrow morning with pictures.

And to add to it all I have been banned from MINI of Mt View. Oh and my car is pretty much undriveable...its not safe.

 

Did you get your codes and fuel trims recorded? My sensor change didn't make a difference for two days and a few hard drives. Although, I'm still not 100% sure the sensor fixed it. What was the wiring mistake and why are you banned mmv? How is your car undriveable now?

...Yes I am very interested in solving this.

 

We hooked up his car to BiM-COM and the latest code he has indicates an intermittant short from the MAP output to VBatt. And I'd have to agree. You can start the car and it will idle fine, but when you start moving (and the engine moves) the car bucks pretty hard, and the code re-appears. We did this more than once. It can also happen when shifting gears, or flooring it. In the little time I drove the car, it seemed that if the motor was moving, then the problems showed up.

So the diagnostic is pointing to something that is totally consistant with the car's behaviour. It seems a good road to go down. If Wil is lucky, they'll find a place where the harness is chaffed, and fix it with some electrical tape and move whatever caused the chaffing, and all should be well. If not, well then that just sucks because it's going to be harder to find the issue.

I have a data log of the driving we did. If you want to look at it, PM me with your e-mail address and I can send it to you too!

Matt

 

Can you unplug the upstream MAP sensor and still get the problem?

 

but how will the drive by wire work with no MAP values? I think you'd get codes, it just wouldn't say "Intermittant short" but would say "open circuit". IT's a good idea though.

Matt

 

I tried disconnecting both maps to see the codes generated.

T-map;
p0107 manifold absolute pressure/barometric sensor circuit low input.
p0113 Intake air temp circuit high

map:
p1237 (not 1238) secondary upstream map low input.

Dr O, pm sent

 

Ok, that last pic...when I removed all the tape I found that there are two brown wires that they just capped off...the yellow cap..not sure yet what these lead to through the rest of the harness...
but I did find where they went in the connector to the dme, see the transparent wires in the second pic...I think they are tapping into those sensor wires to get that signal to the pins the brown wires used to go to...I can confirm this later in the week I guess when I can get over to jasons and take a look at his spare harnesses

 

any brown wire is a chassis ground. The clear wires are really sheilded coax, that they use for sensors that need low noise. The O2 sensors are two that do, don't know about the rest.

With harnesses out of the car, they are real easy to ohm out....

And there is a way to remove the pins from the ECU connector, if you want to make a temp jumper using parts from Jason's stuff....

You have to take the blue retainer out of the ECU harness, only the one for the square pin, not the one for the high current connectors (ask me how I know that one doesn't come out!) Then you can use a very small flat bladed screw driver to release the retention tab on the metal connecter, and it will pull out the back. At least that's what the AMP documentation says....

Matt

 

I had no idea that your harness had been cut and pasted.

 

wait...I just went and pulled that map sensor that mini of concord sold me and im looking at it, up against the one I took out...the part number on the one i bought is for the front (t-map)...doh...but the box had the part number for the map sensor I needed. Anyways, I am going back up to concord tomorrow to see if I can swap it for the one I need.

 

ROTFLMAO! I had my friend pick up the sensor from concord. She called me at work saying that they had the two maps sensors, but didn't know which was which. I gave her the number and everything was fine. When I gave you the numbers I double checked the box and saw the t-map number, but I had the right map. They mixed them up when they were trying to figure it out. I know the parts manager and called him yesterday to worn him about a possible mixup. We got to talking and I forgot to mention it. I thought forget about it, but started thinking about some guy putting in the wrong sensor and having the car drive all crazy. TOO LATE.
That is some funny S.

How did it react to the sesnor. DR O mentioned something about the signals being double.

If you see matt C. tell him jeremy says high.

 

when it got to a certain amount the whole car would violently buck forward...the t-map reads only up to like 13psi or something right? whereas the map reads up to like 36psi...so they might not have one in when I go up tomorrow huh?

Ya, the signals were odd...would make sense though..lets say the right setup puts out a .5V back to DME at 5psi...that signal translates to x amount hgin...well if that wrong one tops out at 13psi...then at 5psi it would put out lets say 1V....that translates on the DME to 2x amount hgin(or w/e it is)

Does that make any sense? I know how it works but got lost in the typing..lol

I put the right one back in and the car is back to just running wayyyyy too rich...but no jerky throttle

 

The tmap has the higher psi. So you could see it get richer with the new sensor? Rich all over, part throttle, etc...? Are you using a gauge to read air/fuel or a scanner?

My car is much better now, but not the way I think it should be. I'm going to start looking at fuel pressure and the regulator. I've been meaning to get a gauge for work anyhow. I'll probably swap out the fuel filter and regulator soon too. I can't believe these parts are actually sold seperately. I did find some good info on diagnosing the fuel system and an issue with the hose constricting and reducing flow.

We should get a few of us together and compare notes.

 

ya, compare notes..

no, i dont have a air/fuel gauge...btw both my 02 sensors have been kinda messed with...the pre cat has fallen out a few times (dont ask how) the post cat had an 02 sim on it for a while but I took it off when I put a cat back on...

oh and richer with the old sensor...the car felt like it had power again with the new sensor on...but since it was the wrong sensor, like i said, it would buck violentley out of nowhere...it kinda hurt..lol

I can tell the car is running rich because after driving for an extended period of time (over an hour) the cat glows red...could just be a clogged cat...also all the way through rpms it just feels like it has no power...but smooth...like timing is way off and its running way rich...

I had my whole fuel rail and everything off the other day, the FPR is waht my boost gauge is tapped to...I took that off and didn't notice a diff...just trying to eliminate things...

I am hoping to talk to someone at concord about getting my car in under the service I had it in back when it was under warranty since it is still throwing the same codes...we will see what happens tomorrow.

 

Good luck. Thier lack of willingness to work on my car, literally got me a job at bmw.

Tip: don't let dave get you worked up, he means well.

 

002,
Do you work at BMW/Concord?