Been about a month now thats these codes have been thrown...can only be cleared with peak tool and p1238 stays no matter what...can't be cleared.

This is what it feels like driving....
between 2000-4000rpm if I add anymore throttle the TB itself doesn't respond correctly or at all..but..the everything else still works...in other words, tb doesn't open unless i go to WOT, but the whole time gas gets added more and more..this is why I think it's the TB itself that is messing up and not the ECU. If it was the ECU I don't think it would be dumping more gas.

Cliffnotes: Gas pedal movement is responding on the TB side but Gas is still dumping with gas pedal movement.

So I am pretty sure that soon my cat will be completely blown through, kinda hoping that it catches the whole car on fire

 

So you still have your MINI then?

The only other thing I would check (though symptoms are a little different) is make sure the vaccum line for the FPR is on right.

 

all vacuum lines are in place how they should be
catch can is off the car
only mods now are HAI, 17%, Header, Borla Cat-Back (and everything JCW)

 

p1238 = Pissed off cuz youre trying to sell it

 

haha...its so true

 

anyone know what these codes say?

 

what size TB are you running?

 

stock

 

P1242 is too much Pressure or boost during deceleration. I have this code & I am starting to wonder if its my TB.

 

bump bump anyone got any ideas?

 

All sensor connection tight?

Otherwise I think post 4 is most accurate.

I'm assuming hard codes.

 

Were they ever rigged for a boost feed or VGS? I believe you had one or both, right? Is there a chance that you connected them back together wrong? If a hose carrying vacuum no longer is, you could see that... (I'm guessing you already know that, but it always pays to ask about the easy ones first!).

 

never had VGS on this car

I will check all the lines around there again though...but its like you can tell that the fpr is working correctly and just dumping the gas in but the tb isn't opening... =/

 

ya, i have checked all connections...taken both map sensors out, looked them over, there is no out of range resistence or anything...so..

 

Is/has anything been soldered to the MAP sensor wires at the ECU or at any of the harnesses? eg, an analog tap...

 

This also makes me wonder; with all the work done did one of the associated harness have a wire or two get pinched and or cut accidentally?

 

nope...
only real mods under the hood all together would be...
boost gauge line tapped into the tube that runs to the fpr right when it comes out of the intake mani..
tapped into water/coolant temp sensor, both this and the boost run back to a defi rx/send to defi gauge controller...
17% alta pulley
HAI
jcw head/s/c/injectors/tuning
obx header w/ stock cat
borla race catback

 

well....i dunno what all the actually did when they replaced my harness under warranty...they could have f'ed soemthin up and now they just don't wanna deal with it so they start blaming my parts or somethin...i unno

they could have tried shortcutting spots by just cutting and rewiring it.... =/

 

So, think you can pop the cover on the ecu connectors and check that out? The cover slides towards the front of the car before coming up and off, so don't pull straight up or it could break! Good luck.

 

right now a stocker is on my car, but I have a 60mm one you're free to try. I'm going to the east bay today, but can leave the TB out if you want to come over and pick it up....

Matt

 

I'd measure the signal coming out of the upstream MAP first; those two codes are both relating to that sensor. Also, Twincharge guys will see these codes from boosting the upstream MAP.

 

time to bump this back up....

thought I might have had the car sold with the CEL anyway..but guy didnt show up today or call...and I can't get a hold of him...so

The TB I borrowed from Dr. O made the car feel a little bit more responsive, but you could tell the problem was still there. The car is running very rich and feels as if the TB itself doesn't respond correctly to pedal input. I am going to order a new upstream MAP sensor and see if that helps. I am also going to put the FPR vacuum line back to stock setup (no boost gauge line) to see if that helps anything too...

Would this high input on the MAP cause the car to run very rich? (High input, I was told, is too much vacuum...a low input would be too much boost...)

 

This is what I've found about your code :

P1238Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Malfunction

 

That is actually the code for upstream map sensor input high. The map between the throttle and supercharger. When it says input I assume voltage. High voltage from that sensor is low vacuum. Like when at full throttle.

Msfit, After having the new map sensor in for two days the car feels great again. I don't know for sure if that was the problem or if the drivability issue is truely gone now. I did have the same symptoms as you describe. I checked throttle position with the scanner and it does show it opening. I also checked the downstream tmap sensor and it's readings do map my boost gauge and temps, so I think it's ok. Timing is ok too. My fuel trims are high, so it is dumping fuel. The dme does a calculation between the two map sensors to determine air charge. If this calc is off it would definitely cause fueling issues. The only things left are fuel regulator, pump and filter.

Based on the codes, up stream map senor input high, lean running, and the high fuel trims (running rich)...

...And symptoms, poor throttle response and doggy high end power. Here is what I think is happening. Improper air charge calculation from a bad map sensor or out of range (read dme progamming range) air pressure between the throttle and supercharger. This causes the part thottle air/fuel to be lean and setting off the p0171 code then the fuel trims go way up, the engine runs rich and causes the poor throttle response and sluggish power. which, by the way is an extreame version of what would happen when trying to tune a carburated vehicle for high end power.

My first guess is that up stream map is bad. That is what I tried and so far so good. The car runs great now and no more codes, but I haven't checked the fuel trims lately to confirm. I'll report back when I do.

My next guess is that the better flow from aftermarket throttle bodies and intakes is causing the map sensor to see too low a vacuum reading (higher pressure) than expected and the air charge calcs are off causing the above scenario. Maybe a combination of the two.

I have a half dozen other ideas, but this seams the most realistic and is analogous to the problems I see with bmw MAF (yes F) sensors.

P.S. the map sensor is easy to put in and $45 at the dealer.

Edit: still no codes and fuel trim has stabilized from 7% to 4.5%.

 

Awesome, that is my next step. today I tore through the car, put my recaro's back in, took all my defi gauge stuff out.

Sales Plug: Defi Boost Gauge, Defi Water Temp gauge, Defi Gauge controller, everything else you need to set it up in two vents in your mini!! =P PM me if interested.

Dealer parts dept doesn't open till monday, so I guess ill head over to mt view on monday morning, i plan on changing it out in the parking lot. =P