Question about Xenon Headlights

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#26

10-14-2006, 06:19 PM

kapps

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The only other possible issue is the extra heat generated from a 100w bulb. Can the stock headlight setup take it?

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#27

10-14-2006, 07:53 PM

herbie hind

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DixonL2

Chows: It's the relay AND the wiring.

I don't want to (or have to) type out the whole process, that's why I referred to www.rallylights.com for the diagram .... but... clarifying my earlier:

Use the stock OE (switched) headlight wiring to supply the voltage signal to the relay, and use heavier-duty wiring to supply current from the relay (12v+) to the lights. If'n you're really concerned, do as I did and use a heavier gauge wire as a ground as well, that way you're covered all the way 'round the circuit and back.

How's that wrong? Why NOT discuss it? If it's wrong I want to correct it! Why the rolling eyes emoticon - just trying to help out here...

Oh - the link to the headlight relays/wiring page on www.rallylights.com is
http://www.rallylights.com/useful_in...amp_wiring.htm

i've got piaas and wired according to directions but soon after ...say 5 months i lost the drivers side low beam. seems the piaa relay got corroded and took out the low beam . i've since taken the wiring off the headlight circuit and ran direct to the batt. pos. so on come the lights whenever i want as an added bonus . those xeanons ain't cheap.

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#28

10-15-2006, 08:12 AM

Rawhyde

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kapps

The only other possible issue is the extra heat generated from a 100w bulb. Can the stock headlight setup take it?

I doubt it. I wouldn't try it. The reflector is plastic that has been chromed. 100W bulbs generate serious heat. I have used 100W bulbs in lights with chromed metal reflectors and glass lenses and been very happy, but metal and glass can tolerate much more heat.

Rawhyde

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#29

10-15-2006, 08:36 AM

chows4us

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DixonL2

How's that wrong? Why NOT discuss it? If it's wrong I want to correct it! Why the rolling eyes emoticon - just trying to help out here...

I'm not saying your wiring is wrong.

The issue of using 100w (or 130w) bulbs is wrong. There is no point in discussing for a multitude of reason but since you want a dicussion .... this is not a 4 x 4 board for off-roading on the Rubicon Trail so the entire discussion off 100w bulbs is MOOT.

Most people dont want to hear it but they are illegal in probably every state
As you stated, you have to use lower gage wiring (i.e., thicker wires) for the voltage
You can't just stick them in any housing ... most today are plastic ... they just melt them and start a fire

That is why they are so wrong.

If you want 100w bulbs, then you need to buy the wiring and Lamp that can accomodate them and then ONLY Off-road.

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#30

10-15-2006, 09:06 AM

CDMINI

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MINI Zenons=Bling/bling..., and something else that can break and can't be replaced by owner easily, same Hi beams as is on all the cars.

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#31

10-15-2006, 07:24 PM

DixonL2

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Chows: Agreed, hence my reference to the rallylights page. Apologies for not indicating the heat/plastic housing caveat. While I've nver had a problem with 100W high beams in any car, I've also never owned a mini before, and have only used the 100W beams in Hella or Bosch glass OE Euro headlights. Legality? That's up to the individual, but again I concede your point. I'd have no moral or ethical problem running 100W high beams in separate (able-to-handle-it) driving beams, and while we're not running the Rubicon here, there are times whem 100W is re-eally nice on the open road.

Have a nice day.

Thanks for the clarification

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