I found this on another forum thought some of you would be interested in this information.

http://forums.yellowworld.org/archiv...hp/t-1136.html


- KP

if this is is the needs to be moved go ahead was not sure where to post.

 

Thank you for posting this. It is good info for anyone that wants to take good care of their vehicle.
It's also good that there are still engineers out there that are humble enough to share their hard earned educated information.

 

This is old info and does not tell the whole story. Oil companies change the formula and additive package of their oils all the time. For up to date info.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

You maybe correct in saying that this is old information. However, I believe it is useful especially when you have people that using synthetic oil and changing it every 3000k mile.
The point is that you do not need to, there is one individual in the 350Z forum I found this the uses Mobil 1 15,000 mile extended oil and changes it every 3000 mile.
This is a NASA engineer that is bored and this is what he and his friends do in there free time.

- KP

 

^^ yah, ive seen this a lot.

right now my Legacy is running Mobil1 gold cap (15k) with a M110 filter
and it will run the entire 15k miles before i change it.

silver cap i use 10k or 1yr.

btw, Target has 1qt Mobil1 silver cap 5W30's for $4.09 a bottle!

 

You should do an oil analysis...I doubt the Mobil 1 will last 15K...it would not on my oil analysis (which was from a Saab 9-2x turbo which is just a Subaru WRX). I'm running Amsoil in my GP.

 

Them why does my car recommend oil changes every 20,000 miles using only Mobil 1.

Do you think they like giving away new engines?

 

Are you talking about the service indicator?

Remember, the manufacture only cares what happens during the warranty period. After that, they'll be happy to get you a new engine...for a price. An oil analysis is really the only way to tell what is going on in there. Maybe the detergents can go 10k, maybe 15k. There's no other way of knowing.

That said, I haven't had my oil analized. Standard analysis is $20; $40 with a TBN that gives you the additive levels. I do a lot of highway driving so I change it around 8k miles or 9 months (whichever comes first) with Mobil 1 but will be switching to German Castrol on my next change. I can only hope the oil is performing well when I change it. If I was to try a 15k or 20k mile change interval, I'd definitely be getting an analysis to see exactly how far I can go.

 

No. There is no service indicator.

Porsche recommends Mobil 1, 0 - 40 ONLY. Nothing else, I believe in all its normal engines (maybe not the GT3 or TT).

20K miles. I kinda believe they know what they are doing.

 

well, it's going 15k miles and will let you know if the motor dies or not.
(be a good reason to buy another car).

i doubt there is anything wrong with going 15k on a 15k advertised
motor oil with mostly highway miles.

 

BTW, this bit about Mobil 1 not being synthetic is BS.

In 1999 when Mobil lost its complaint with the NAD against Castrol, for a short time, they marketing "Tri-synthetic blends" which were group 3. They no longer sell it.

All Mobil 1 oils are group 4 or 5. Just read their FAQ

 

I changed my oil at 2000 miles to Mobil 1 5-30 and at 5000 mile intervals since then. I drive around 15000 a year and find that the oil changes are both therapy to me and to Artoo who has 50,000 miles at this point (Septermber 2002 build 2003 Cooper S). At this point I can do it in under a half hour but I take the chance to check the plugs, tires and other fluid levels. I understand that 5000 is on the short end but it works for me.

That said what is the curent wisdom on which Mobil 1 to use? I have enough for a couple more changes (Last year Pep Boys has a coupon where it came to $3.00 a quart so I bought a lot) but should l look at the 0-30, 0-50 or something else? Not that I think any will make a big differenct but I am asking anyway.

Rich

 

Maybe I'm just old fashioned...but when my oil is black...I change it. Usualy every 5K. With the amount of miles I'm putting on it...2k a month, it's pretty often. My usual rule of thumb is every 3 months or 5k. Which ever comes first. Some people are extremely **** about keeping their cars detailed...I'm **** about keeping my oil clean. Maybe the oil will not break down until 20k miles, maybe even 30K, but the carbon and dirt that build up in the oil have to effect something. If the oil is black after 5k miles, then imagine how much crap must be in there after 3 or 4 times those miles.

 

Chow,

I had a Porsche several years ago and I think it had an extended service interval too, and that was on dino oil.

Part of the reason for that car having a long interval was that it was dry sump and held either 9 or 10 quarts (I can't remember exactly, but I think it was 9.)

Each manufacturer has there own service intervals. Longer intervals usually go with the use of synthetics and larger oil capacities.

 

My old 81 911 SC held 11Quarts of Dino but no extended service life in those days (you needed to be superman to get the filter too!)...If you did not change it by 3000 mi...you caught hell from your Porsche Mechanic (NEVER took it to the dealer either!)...NOW that was an expensive oil change! You not only drained the crankcase but the sump as well! Hey, it even had a solid state ignition!

 

Ah, your right about the large capacity sumps. They can go a lot further on a change because the oil doesn't go through the system as often. I didn't know Porsche's carried that much oil.

Chows, I still don't believe Mobil 1 is completely group IV. Everything I have read about it indicates it's a group III with some group IV thrown in. The '0w' weights do seem to have more PAO in the mix. On their site, they say it is made of "high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs)... "Including" does not mean "made entirely of." M1 is a good oil with good additives; just not group IV. Your Porsche recommends it. For the MINI, I can get German Castrol for less $$$ than M1 and it's proven to be completely group IV.

 

I'm not sure which model you had but the only p-cars with a true dry sump now are the GT3 and TT. For all others it acts like one but is not. This is causing issues with ppl tracking their cars hard and getting oil starvation so they are looking at ways (I believe Mantis) to get a true dry sump.

I also checked with another forum and their opinions and it came down to:

1. Porsche cut a deal with Mobil (that I can believe0
2. The 0 - 40 Mobil 1 really is that good but most ppl change at 10K anyway

Yeah, its like 9 quarts of that stuff.

I've asked this question elsewhere and get the same response ...

In 1999 when Mobil they could get Castrol to change their marketing ... they DID join the bandwagon with a blend. That blend is now gone.

What's the difference between a fully synthetic and a synthetic blend motor oil? All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. Semi-synthetic oils (also called "blends") usually use a small percentage of non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional base oil.

As to 0 - 40

Mobil 1 0W-40 is made with a proprietary blend of ultra high performance synthetic basestocks fortified with Supersyn Technology.

No mention of Dino at all.

 

I won't argue about the 0w-40. For an oil to meet VW specs, it has to be good.

 

Chow,

Forgive me if I mislabeled my car as a dry sump. I had always heard it referred to as such. It was a 1970 914-6 with the 2.0 flat six out of the 911.

It had the oil tank in the left rear fender between the door and wheel well. The oil had to be checked with engine running. To change, I had to disconnect the oil line between the tank and the motor. There was no drain in the motor.

 

914-6 was a GREAT car. My wife used to drool over 914s.

I have no idea about a 1970 ... I was talking the water cooled engines from 996 on. I had a 85 911 air cooled and do not think that was dry sump either. Its all about cost. I do know the lack of a dry sump is causing aggravations for the guys who do track days all the time ... all the time.

 

For those of you that do not know what a 914-6 is, here's a picture.



They were made from 1970-1972 with just a few made in 1973 (I think). They were basically the 914 with a 911 drive train, including wheels and brakes. Note the five lug wheels in the picture.

They did not sell many because they cost almost the same as a 911. They were mid-engined and great handling cars. Predecessor to the Boxter maybe?

 

:drool:

 

Your correct. The 914-4s had a VW engine. The 914-6s had the basic 911 engine at the time and were expensive, Porsches first effort a mid-engined layout.

Except for the 944 Turbo, Porsches short lived try at front engined cars didn't last long or go well.

It is most likely the inspiration behind moving to the Boxster.

 

It does seem as though M1 is changing some of their oils over to Group III base stocks. I think the data for 5-30 EP is on page 6.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...0&fpart=1&vc=1

 

Bump