Quick question ya'll.. I know when doing certain work on the engine (like cam and such), you get near the timing chain..

I've been thinking/playing with the idea of just getting a better cam in my MC. ('Cuz I like to play!) A thought occured to me recently, however. With now over 150k miles, when should I start thinking about getting a new timing chain? I know (from an experience with a friend) that if the timing chain goes, well- that's bad. Did MINI recommend a milage for timing chains?

Cheers!
Mike.

 

IMHO, If you do the cam you may as well do the timing chain since you have to open it up that far anyway.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Since that's a half-year off so far, I was just curious if something I should be concerned about, or just let it slide until I get it apart.

Many thanks!
Mike.

 

actually its a lot more work to remove the chain than it is to just change the cam. you would have to remove the front bumper and bumper carrier, extend the radiator support, then removed the crank pulley, acc. belt tensioner, and timing cover. none of which you would have to do for just a cam. and the chain is theortically lifetime.

 

well at least my question was anwsered, wasnt sure if minis had chains or the craptasic belts

 

If you are concerned, you can remove the cam cover, pull up and measure the movement of a link or two on the tight part of the gear (will need a dial indicator) and examine the 'hook pattern' on the gear teeth and teeth wear to give you some indication of how worn or loose your chain is.

If you have been doing your oil changes religiously at a appropriate interval, the chain should still be in good shape. If you are 'really' taking the front end of the engine off, then a new chain, gears, seals, etc is a wonderful idea.

One thing I would absolutely check is the oil level in each end of your SC (assuming you have the MCS). Everyone should be checking and adding lube or replacing lube at no longer than about 60-75Kmiles. If that lube goes away, you are in big trouble. Too bad it is not easy to check.. but do it anyway.


YD

 

Care to elaborate? I know there was a discussion a few months back on this topic but there isn't much info on it. I remember something about using a turkey baster to get as much oil out as you can and then replacing it with Eaton oil. How easy is it to get to the plugs?

 

Yes, please tell more, I've searched in the past but have had no luck. Any information on this would be great.

Nik

 

All I know is that there are a lot of threads about SCs failing at about the 75K range. The autopsies reveal that the gear set in the rear of the SC had run dry. This caused the gears to chew themselves up. The driven gear also drives the water pump.

Most threads say that the warning signs were noise and overheating (water pump not being turned at enough speed, or even being turned at all). When this fails, apparently you can't replace the gearset, you must replace the entire SC with a new or used one (big $$$).

Although I have never done this, the front lube plug is easily seen and removable with not too much trouble. The rear plug can only be accessed by removing the water pump.

Several months ago I posted a thread about going in (sometime around 50K) and removing the intercooler and cleaning it (this will need it anyway), pulling the water pump and checking the oil. Knowing my maintenance personality, I would at a min suck out all the lube and replace it. IMHO, whatever effort this takes is cheap compared to replacing the SC. Who knows, your SC may never need this.

For whatever reason, possibly the oil gets sucked into the SC under light throttle/vacuum situations past worn seals. It has to go somewhere. The shaft seals can't last forever.

If I found the gear box low, I would start thinking about replacing the shaft seals before all was ruined.

I don't know if this is possible because I have never pulled my SC off (yet), but when I do, I am considering drilling a hole in the side of the gear housing (assuming there is room) and installing a tee. The top run will work its way up to some level where I can add lube. The bottom run will work its way down to where it can be used as a drain. Both of these tubes will be ss with swagelok caps. If I can work this out, then I can drain and replace or add lube anytime I want with no more effort than an oil change.

I'll do a lot to prevent replacing the SC on my watch with my money. I'll see if I can find that old thread. As I remember, I got laughed at and was told my efforts wouldn't work or it would be too much trouble. Typical comments from people who never do anything weird, like I do all the time.

Check out my best mod ever under the interior header to see how crazy I got with my driver's side downtube. Still the best mod I ever did..... so comfortable.

I'm a long-long term car keeper, most of my cars have 400-500K miles, so figuring out a way to do preventive maintenance is common for me. That's why I do the oil and transmission changes like I do... but let's please don't start that discussion.

If I ever do the SC drill and drain thing, I'll do pics and a tuitorial if it works. That'll be a while.

YD

 

What is SC (I hate to even ask this)

 

SuperCharger.

Up until 2007, the "S" model had one. MINI went to a turbo in 2007.