Funny about that. My 13mm fits like it belongs there.

Guess what I'm getting at is the folks that use a cresent wrench for such work. Proper fit is half the battle.

 

I don't really know what the deal is with the drain plugs seeming like they have been welded on. We have two Mini's on which I change the oil every 5K. The dealer manages to get in there once in a while as well, and the plugs don't come out easily after they change the oil. After fighting (and succeeding) to get the plug out on my car with the help of an impact screwdriver, I installed the valve. However, on my wife's car, nothing I tried worked to get the drain plug out. I had such a little nub of the bolt head left that I really thought I would have to remove the pan. However, at coffee one morning, a buddy reminded me of an old shadetree trick, which worked REALLY well. Drive the car till warm. Put it up in the air so you can crawl under with a handful of ice cubes. Press an ice cube against the drain plug but nothing else. I tried the plug after 2 ice cubes and it came out like it had never been tightened. Still - I put the drain valve on this car as well...

Let me know if this works for you.

Pat

 

The ice cube is a great idea.
I understand and support your comment, but mine still rounded with a 6 point 13mm Craftsman socket, firmly held on by pushing against the wrench. With the 19mm VW plug (which I already owned, so it was free) - no issues. Looking for a Fumoto one of these days...

 

Yeah... mine was a bear to remove last time... put the Fumoto on myself... and also found that my 1/2" fit better than my 13mm.... go figure...

 

Every time I have removed one of those drain plugs & I've done a few, they are TIGHT. Even the one on my car that I am very careful to not over tighten. I'm sure it is that washer causing it.

My method is to put my wrench on & give it a sharp tap with a dead-blow hammer. Works every time for me.

I like the Fumoto valve, it seems well made, but I can't get over the fear of snapping it off with disastrous results. I track my car occasionally & worry what the race track curbing would do it if I straddled a curb.

That 19mm VW plug seems like a great idea. Next time I'm at the parts store I'm picking one up along with a bunch of crush washers.

 

Chuck, maybe your drain plug is in a different place than mine, but mine is on the backside of the oil pan--it's above the bottom of the pan; I track my car a bit, and if I hit curbing hard enough to damage the fumoto, the damage to the fumoto would be the least of my worries...

 

Yes I know, but I can't seem to get over my irrational fear. I think that VW plug with a copper washer will do fine for me. After all it's only one bolt to remove for each oil change. I'm lazy, but not that lazy I guess.

 

I use an oil temperature sender which has a copper crush wasger and uses a 19mm wrench and monitors the oil temperature. Never had an issue with removing it.

 

Note that the VW plug is maybe 1/8" longer (into the pan) than the Mini plug. Since I haven't seen the inside of the Mini pan, it was relatively easy to grind 1/8" off, hyper-clean the plug, and go from there. I doubt it was necessary, though.

An interesting addition is that VW plugs are available with those powerful magnets in 'em. While I have my doubts on their overall effectiveness relative to the oil filter, I can say that I get some black ferrous gunk off the one in my wife's VW every now and again.

Note too - with the aluminum skidplate, the oil plug is quite well protected. I have not seen the Fumoto on a Mini with a skidplate, but the plate would likely protect it quite well also.

 

As an FYI (and warning) - I also have the aux gauges. The oil was changed only by the dealer and myself. At 45K miles (5-6 oil changes) the temp sending plug stripped out all 3 threads that it contacts. Do NOT overtighten this plug.
(I replaced it with a generic plug - which extends MUCH further - instead of drilling/tapping for a helicoil. But I miss my oil temp.)

 

Digging up this old thread,drain bolt came out with half the threads on it what's your idea on a fix?? having read this thread what is a Fumoto plug,this thing has a drain within the plug??then i can insert a helicoil and put that in permanently?

 

Fumoto's direct source:

http://www.qwikvalve.com/

once you put this on you never remove the plug to drain oil - just flip the lever

 

Thanks just order'd one off fleabay $25,what's your recomendation for repairing the threads in the oil pan helicoil?What we've done for a temp fix is longer bolt it's got some threads left so it went up and is not leaking but i want to do a proper fix.Thanks for the reply Capt,i've had this baby from new 2003 and love it can't bring myself to sell it after modding suspension and brakes ages ago,just a really fun little car to drive.All the mods i did were compliments of you guys on here and all were spot on.

 

well given that you've ordered the 'proper' size, a coil insert is a way to go assuming you don't want to bite the bullet and replace the pan for a 100% correct fix. Had you not yet ordered the Fum' tho, I'd have eliminated the insert step by researching the QwikValve site a bit and just ordering a larger diameter valve, tapped the pan - exactly as you will for the insert - and used an oversized valve . . . one less thing to go wrong....

If you can get the Fum' to 'bite', I'd be tempted to just JB-weld it into the pan for a brute force fix. After all the point of the valve is not needing to pull it off again . . .

 

I finally got the Fumoto. With the skidplate that sucker's really well protected. The only "issue" (if you'd call it that) is that it extends the oil drain 1/2" toward the rear of the car, and with the car on ramps the oil can get on top of the skidplate. Fix? Use a small square of aluminum foil and redirect the oil flow downward. Done. Wouldn't go back, and that sucker's not opening unless you want it to.

I'll have to dig up that 19mm plug and throw it on the marketplace, don't remember where I put the darned thing!

 

Thanks again guys ,yea i orderd a 14mmx1.5 plug so helicoil it is.

 

I got the newer one that you can stick a tube on it to direct the flow so it's all good

 

hint - If u did not order the hose from QwikValve, take the valve to hardware store to find the right size hose B4 you put it on the car.... Ask me how I figured that one out.... 6 different hoses later.

 

I haven't done mine, yet, but I think a can of compressed air might do the trick on a warm plug. Cool it right down.

 

I couldn't get mine loose even with an impact chisel. Now I can't get the CVT transmission drain plug loose with an impact wrench.

 

I'm going to try liquid nitrogen.