Suspension just installed my H&R coilovers
#1
09-18-2007, 03:49 PM
just installed my H&R coilovers
hey guys i just installed my H&R coilovers, i had some slight problems but thanks to adam from alta i had it all figured out. the pictures are on the lowest setting on both the front and rear.
i notice that the suspension doesnt handle that well on the onramps over SS. but it does handle better lower speed corners like around 30-40mph.
the lowest setting is too low for my preferance i think. it will probably handle better once i rise the back end a bit. i like how the front is. current there is a gap between the front tires and the fender while the rear is tucked in. i want to get the rear to have a bigger gap than the fronts.
also i hear some noise from the front when i make slight turns. sounds like viabrations
the endlinks are pencil thick.. i think i have to replace those
any suggestions
i notice that the suspension doesnt handle that well on the onramps over SS. but it does handle better lower speed corners like around 30-40mph.
the lowest setting is too low for my preferance i think. it will probably handle better once i rise the back end a bit. i like how the front is. current there is a gap between the front tires and the fender while the rear is tucked in. i want to get the rear to have a bigger gap than the fronts.
also i hear some noise from the front when i make slight turns. sounds like viabrations
the endlinks are pencil thick.. i think i have to replace those
any suggestions
#2
09-18-2007, 04:22 PM
#6
09-19-2007, 05:40 AM
5th Gear
alta endlinks rule! When the car is sitting take a look at the lower control arm angle. You want it a bit lower than parrallel, if you have htem parallel or above when loaded the car will probably handle like crap. The other thing is you MAY be on the bumpstops, and the alta endlinks will help from having te swaybar too preloaded. basically a checklist of stuff you should check to get the handling perfect.
#7
09-19-2007, 06:14 AM
Nice work. Car looks hot slammed....but like you said, I'm sure the handling is suffering a little.
Lowering that much really alters the geometry of the suspension...I was basically just going to reiterate what a96bimmer said.
Lowering that much really alters the geometry of the suspension...I was basically just going to reiterate what a96bimmer said.
alta endlinks rule! When the car is sitting take a look at the lower control arm angle. You want it a bit lower than parrallel, if you have htem parallel or above when loaded the car will probably handle like crap. The other thing is you MAY be on the bumpstops, and the alta endlinks will help from having te swaybar too preloaded. basically a checklist of stuff you should check to get the handling perfect.
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09-19-2007, 07:47 AM
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09-19-2007, 09:18 AM
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#12
09-19-2007, 09:21 AM
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#13
09-19-2007, 09:48 AM
This might not be a popular answer.....
Well, Mini designed their suspension geometry to work best around the stock ride height. Of course, they made consessions for comfort making the suspension fairly soft and no aggressive camber.
My personal opinion for a typical street car would be don't go more than an about inch down. Camber and toe curves change, bump steer can come into effect, etc. Slight lower, stiffen it up, and get a little camber to help.
People see racecars slammed but don't take into account that they have altered their geometry to compensate with modified ball joints, steering rack spacers, etc.
I haven't lowered my Mini (running in stock class for auto-x), but have coilovers on my M Roadster. I have a very mild drop compared to most people running those coilovers. People are usually surprised that even with my stiff rates, it can be fairly comfortable to drive while having lots of grip.
Well, Mini designed their suspension geometry to work best around the stock ride height. Of course, they made consessions for comfort making the suspension fairly soft and no aggressive camber.
My personal opinion for a typical street car would be don't go more than an about inch down. Camber and toe curves change, bump steer can come into effect, etc. Slight lower, stiffen it up, and get a little camber to help.
People see racecars slammed but don't take into account that they have altered their geometry to compensate with modified ball joints, steering rack spacers, etc.
I haven't lowered my Mini (running in stock class for auto-x), but have coilovers on my M Roadster. I have a very mild drop compared to most people running those coilovers. People are usually surprised that even with my stiff rates, it can be fairly comfortable to drive while having lots of grip.
#14
09-20-2007, 07:06 PM
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gup: I know you had a couple of concerns when we spoke the other day on the phone. Did you get the rear fixed and assembled correctly now? That will make a WORLD of difference when it is correct. Car looks sweet though that dumped in the photos. Thank you again for your business. Let me know if I can ever help in the future!
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09-25-2007, 01:39 PM
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09-25-2007, 02:03 PM
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09-27-2007, 02:51 PM
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#19
09-28-2007, 10:32 AM
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09-28-2007, 02:27 PM
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A speedometer can be calibrated...
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
#21
09-28-2007, 05:07 PM
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A speedometer can be calibrated...
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
the diameter of the (stock) TIRE is almost identical. The rim of course is an inch different.
Last edited by MotorMouth; 09-28-2007 at 07:08 PM.
#22
09-28-2007, 06:56 PM
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A speedometer can be calibrated...
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
My point was the statement that a 17" wheel and a 16" wheel have the same diameter is false. One is 17 inches and the other is 16 inches. Aside from that there are tons of different combinations of wheel / tire that give different sizes. How do you think the V dubbers are slamming their cars so low...?
I'd love to look into a larger diameter wheel (and tire). How do you calibrate a speedometer or where do you go to get it done on a MINI?
Last edited by jascooper; 09-28-2007 at 07:03 PM.
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09-30-2007, 12:23 PM
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09-30-2007, 05:07 PM
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09-30-2007, 07:55 PM
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To fill some of the gap in the R56. Lowering is too detrimental to ride and handling. If the speedo could be easily recalibrated, it would be nice to go to maybe a 50 series tire on 17" wheels. A little cushier ride and less gap. Of course I would have to measure things to avoid rubbing, but really don't want to have to figure out how fast I'm going all the time.