Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Best camber and toe #'s for city driving?

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  #26  
Old 12-10-2007 | 04:03 PM
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From: Alexandria, VA
Can someone tell me how to convert from degrees to inches? I forgot.

And, is it possible for toe, in or out, to affect straight line acceleration?
 
  #27  
Old 12-10-2007 | 04:14 PM
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From: Redding, CA 96001
Any toe settings which result in dynamic toe being less or greater than zero will result in some loss of acceleration (and top speed). The loss is comparatively small for lower speeds with small toe out or in.
 
  #28  
Old 12-10-2007 | 04:25 PM
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I got an alignment today.
Before
3.5 negative camber pretty much on all four corners. Ouch
and my front toe was 3/4" toed in.

After
2.5 neg front 1/32 toe in
2.0 neg rear 0 toe

The car drive way better and does dart off any more.

Thanks for all your help
 
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2007 | 04:38 PM
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From: Peoria, AZ
Originally Posted by MarioKart
I got an alignment today.
Before
3.5 negative camber pretty much on all four corners. Ouch
and my front toe was 3/4" toed in.
Yikes! No wonder it drove like crap when you were overe here in AZ!

Those settings should be a great starting point, especially compared to where you were!

I'm about -2.2 in the front, -1.7 in the rear and no toe in the rear, 1/16 toe in on the front, handling is great for street with the BFG KDWs or Falken Azenis for auto-x.
 
  #30  
Old 12-10-2007 | 05:04 PM
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From: Orange County NY
What type of place did your alignment? I have had 4 places refuse to align my car because it was dropped.

I did find one place that did do my alignment but I don't have high confidence in their work. So how does it drive now?

Originally Posted by MarioKart
I got an alignment today.
Before
3.5 negative camber pretty much on all four corners. Ouch
and my front toe was 3/4" toed in.

After
2.5 neg front 1/32 toe in
2.0 neg rear 0 toe

The car drive way better and does dart off any more.

Thanks for all your help
 
  #31  
Old 12-10-2007 | 06:18 PM
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by minihune
Yes they are.

See also-
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=112434

The lower rear adjustable control arms are for setting rear camber (commonly done)

While upper rear control arms can be upgraded to adjustable ones to set toe, you do not need to do this unless you want to since toe can be adjusted without upgrading the upper rear control arms.
Thanks for the explanation! I'm thinking I probably need an alignment cause my tires wear out way too quick.
 
  #32  
Old 12-10-2007 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffc
What type of place did your alignment? I have had 4 places refuse to align my car because it was dropped.

I did find one place that did do my alignment but I don't have high confidence in their work. So how does it drive now?
I had it done at a local shop that does it the old school way. No computers at all. I have gone to him many times before to do my 540i and E55. He does what ever you ask for and and know how to work with custom stuff, like camber plates. He also does about 3 test drive himself to make sure everything is perfect. Cost $75 per axle.

I will have to test it in the mountains now.
 
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
  #33  
Old 12-10-2007 | 06:26 PM
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From: Ventura, CA
Originally Posted by danjmcs
Yikes! No wonder it drove like crap when you were overe here in AZ!

Those settings should be a great starting point, especially compared to where you were!

I'm about -2.2 in the front, -1.7 in the rear and no toe in the rear, 1/16 toe in on the front, handling is great for street with the BFG KDWs or Falken Azenis for auto-x.
Yeah, the car drove like crap, I'm lucky to be alive :-) I will have to test it out over weekend in the Malibu canyons.
 
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
  #34  
Old 12-10-2007 | 08:40 PM
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Now Mario,

So that people don't think the CROSS coilovers had anything to do with the way your was driving you need to explain what coilovers were/are on your car and why.

Please.

Longboard
 
  #35  
Old 12-10-2007 | 08:52 PM
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by pl4ypl4y
Can someone tell me how to convert from degrees to inches? I forgot.

And, is it possible for toe, in or out, to affect straight line acceleration?
For stock alignment specs in both inches and degrees see post #5
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=120197

For front toe you can choose more toe out than stock settings to help cornering/turning response and to lessen understeer. The car will tend to turn in quicker which is especially helpful for tight turns such as in autocross or driving school events.

For rear toe you can choose slight toe in for better straight line acceleration/ stability, usually about 1/16" toe in is fine.

Some people choose zero toe front and rear.

For more details see
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
 
  #36  
Old 12-11-2007 | 12:16 AM
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From: Ventura, CA
Originally Posted by Longboard Mini
Now Mario,

So that people don't think the CROSS coilovers had anything to do with the way your was driving you need to explain what coilovers were/are on your car and why.

Please.

Longboard
The way my car was driving had nothing to do with the Cross Coilovers or the M7 ones I'm running now. Too much neg camber and 3/4" toe was causing my my pain. Now that its all fixed I can move forward with getting the Rotex kit, time to make a deposit.
M
 
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
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