So, to clarify what I mean. The threads were the bushing screw into the frame are stripped on one of the holes. So now I don't know what to do. I'm a bit scared to drive it at the moment. Anyone know what my options are?

It was wierd. I was greasing the bushings and noticed one of the screws was unsettled (not sitting properly) so I backed it out and tried to screw it back in. It went in easy, it felt like it was threading correctly. But then it when it was about to seat and look like it was going to tighten down it would just spin. So I backed it out again. Looked at the threads and some of the thread were filled. So I took the screw from the other side of the car and fitted it. and it did the same thing. So, it's gotta be that the threads in the hole are gone.

Sux. just another problem to add to my list for the month.

 

I did this during an Alta install. It came with washers so I thought that they were needed. They made the bolt to short though, not enough bite. I ended up stripping both holes on the driver's side. One of them I was able to run a bolt through and get a nut on the underside, but the other was impossible to get to without dropping the rear subframe. It has run with that one bolt on there for about a year and a half with no problems that we can detect. I asked Alta at AMVIV about it and they said it should still be okay. Someday i will lower the rear subframe and fix it properly, but not anytime soon.

 

Thanks man. I was brain storming what to do after a few beers and the superbowl this evening and came up with Idea of just using a nut and bot set-up. It's good to know that somebody else has done that and that yours has been holding up after a year. Looks like that's what I'll probably do.


jus gotta figure out what sizes. I lost the original screw driving home.

 

Can you re-tap the hole, one size up?

 

Yes you can, but you will have to drop the whole rear subframe to do it. There is not a whole lot of room to get in there and I had to do some drilling just to get to the one bolt on. That is some insanely hard metal too. On eday when I get really motivated and the weather is nice, I will re tap them.

 

Are there such things as self-tapping bolts?

What is recommend next size up for rear sway bar bolts? and what grade of bolt?

I found a sway bar bolt loose and tightened it a month ago, but have rechecked and suspect it may have stripped threads. Bar is 22mm alta and is set on softer setting now, but did run it for a while at stiff setting. I suspect if one bolt needs to be redone, all 4 bolts should be redone.

 

I've heard of self-tapping bolts, but they're for much less critical applications. For this, buying a tapping kit shouldn't be that big a deal.

I wouldn't blindly assume that all 4 bolts will need redoing. Maybe the bad one was cross-threaded...

 

I have a full tap/die kit and have become proficient with it. My lower left strut mount is stripped beyond repair....even after retapping it many times. 14x1.25mm no less. Thankfully, I had some spare nuts (hehe) from my Infiniti FX35 strut swap....they fit perfectly on the back side of the bolt.

Makes me wonder about the longterm reliability of aluminum control arms on teh GP and R56's. Steel > aluminum. Eric at Helix told me this was a common issue, mainly due to the dirt and sand build up down there....the threads are exposed on the outboard side and get pulled through the tapped section of the control arm.

Running the nut/bolt arrangement is 100% safe - heck, that's how it comes on the Subaru I had (similar setup in the rear mounting).

 

PGT tha man with 3 of everything!!!

 

no joke.....for once I was glad I didn't toss spare parts and put them in my magnetic dish. 14x1.25 in an automotive grade 8 ain't easy to find locally, especially when the car's in pieces and the wife is mad at you for working on it (again).

 

Haha. Awesome. If a subie can do it a Mini Can do it...maybe. Well we'll find out tomorrow.

Thanks PGT

 

a little loctite won't hurt either. don't over torque it either....I've snapped even grade 8 bolts from overdoing things.

 

Thanks for the ideas and pointers. I'm all done.

Went to MINI of Sterling and got a grade 8, M8 x 29mm or 30mm (stock is 12mm) screw, 2 washers and a matching nut witha nylon lock.

I lifted the car up put it on jacks, grabbed a round file, pulled the handle off it and attached the file to the drill and started drilling and filing away, enlarging the hole towards the back of the car. Test fitted the screw over and over again till it fit and I was able to get the head to sit flush and had enough room for the nut to screw on.

All done. what a pain.

 

i need to do the same thing - thread came out after re-building the bushing in the spirng to get out all the dirt in the spring

how did you get the nut under the subframe? When i checked it was very tight under there.

thanks!

phil

 

unbolt the subframe...it's four bolts.

 

the area where the sway bar bushings mount is pretty exposed.. thanks for helping me count bolts, i lost track at 3 :P

 

I had to drill an area out underneath to get a nut on the other end. The other side has never been fixed and it would be impossible to get a nut on it from underneath. It has never been a problem though.

 

ok, that makes more sense.. time to get out the drill!

 

Yup. Drilled out just like batrugger said.

It's holing up pretty well.

 

i fixed mine last night.. used the dremel to clean\open the hole a bit and then a 5\16 tap + new bolt.. good as new! For the tap I used a wrench to turn it as I didnt take off the subframe.. it's was tight and was scared of cutting crooked or breaking the tap, but took my time and it worked