Suspension OMP or Madness Lower Brace?
#26
I just saw this today
http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...iCooperR53.htm
It looks surprisingly similar to the Madness I just installed .
Steve
http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...iCooperR53.htm
It looks surprisingly similar to the Madness I just installed .
Steve
#27
3rd Gear
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[quote=THE ITCH;2099777]Gann
02-06 Bently manual call for controll arm bushing bracket torque to be 44 ft-lbs. Can be found on pg. 230-11 in that manual. This is a 10mm bolt that fastens to the chassis.
Steve
Control arm Bushing Carrier...M14, 122 ft lbs..
02-06 Bently manual call for controll arm bushing bracket torque to be 44 ft-lbs. Can be found on pg. 230-11 in that manual. This is a 10mm bolt that fastens to the chassis.
Steve
Control arm Bushing Carrier...M14, 122 ft lbs..
#28
Modshack
It seems you are a little confused on what the attachment points are for the OMP or Madness lower brace. They utilize the 10mm bolts from the controll arm bushing bracket that fastens to the chassis not the subframe. You are confusing this with the 14mm bolts that attach the stabilizer bar anchor / controll arm bushing housing. There are four of the 14mm bolts that attach the housing, not two 10mm bolts that attach the bracket. The description for that can be found on page 310-16 of the Bently 02-06 manual.
Steve
[quote=Modshack;2100192]
It seems you are a little confused on what the attachment points are for the OMP or Madness lower brace. They utilize the 10mm bolts from the controll arm bushing bracket that fastens to the chassis not the subframe. You are confusing this with the 14mm bolts that attach the stabilizer bar anchor / controll arm bushing housing. There are four of the 14mm bolts that attach the housing, not two 10mm bolts that attach the bracket. The description for that can be found on page 310-16 of the Bently 02-06 manual.
Steve
[quote=Modshack;2100192]
Last edited by THE ITCH; 03-17-2008 at 07:02 AM.
#29
#31
#32
Larry
I just went out and took a look. The bar diameter is 1.150 and runs just behind and parallel to the sheet steel on the sub frame (hope that makes sense). I have not seen one of Jan's headers but I do not believe it would interfere.
My guess is that Mason is making the one for Madness. Choose your material and color.
Steve
I just went out and took a look. The bar diameter is 1.150 and runs just behind and parallel to the sheet steel on the sub frame (hope that makes sense). I have not seen one of Jan's headers but I do not believe it would interfere.
My guess is that Mason is making the one for Madness. Choose your material and color.
Steve
#35
For a good price of OMP products, check out www.driversedgeautosport.com
of Vancouver, BC.
$79 for lower brace
$129 for upper brace.
I got the lower brace today for C$ 88 (12% tax included).
of Vancouver, BC.
$79 for lower brace
$129 for upper brace.
I got the lower brace today for C$ 88 (12% tax included).
#36
i'm not surprised by this, we are stiffening up the front.....i just think you all should know what to expect. i'll post my impressions with the bar on a stiffer setting soon.
#43
well it's definitely more neutral at the stiffest setting of my 19mm bar! only went on a brief test ride after the change. had one very cool well controlled slide on one turn . have plenty of driving to do tomorrow, so i'll give some more detailed info then. i would definitely say that unless you like understeer you will need a rear sway bar in combo with the omp brace...and the 22mm may make the most sense.
#46
okay, several days later and i don't have anything else to add to my last report. i am more neutral.....but not quite in my happy place yet. i'm going to take to omp bar off and go back to my middle sway bar setting and compare. another option might be putting a bushing between the brace and the frame...things would be tighter vs. no bar, but not so tight (causing less understeer).
#48
If you need a little more rear anti-sway bar stiffness you might try what John Petrich did here. It is very cheap. He is quite innovative and scientific in his approach to modding the Mini for track:
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=36313
If you have no camber plates, though, and drive aggressively sometimes (track, autocross) you should get them as well. They will extend life of your front tires.
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=36313
If you have no camber plates, though, and drive aggressively sometimes (track, autocross) you should get them as well. They will extend life of your front tires.
#49
If you need a little more rear anti-sway bar stiffness you might try what John Petrich did here. It is very cheap. He is quite innovative and scientific in his approach to modding the Mini for track:
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=36313
If you have no camber plates, though, and drive aggressively sometimes (track, autocross) you should get them as well. They will extend life of your front tires.
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=36313
If you have no camber plates, though, and drive aggressively sometimes (track, autocross) you should get them as well. They will extend life of your front tires.
enough guesswork on my part....i'll post back on my "bar off" experience soon. i have a feeling that for me this may come down to the stable feeling the bar provides vs. more neutral/tad of oversteer without it. i'm comming from an e-46 m3, so i have an oversteer bias!
camber plates would be cheaper than coilovers....which are probably my next move after i get some summer max perf. non run flat shoes....which i know are another important variable in this semi complex equation.