Okay so long story short. Im trying to cram everything in before University of MD College Park Meet (May 2nd). Heres whats coming in.

1. edit: Bought a borla catback :D

2. CAI

3. Pulley (17% - Already completed and installed) and I am very happy with the results

4. Tune (Jan on the 25th)


Im getting Keskin KT1's. 16x9R 16x7.5F staggered fitment soon.

Currently im on stock 4x4 ride height, but I already bought H&R Springs.

Are control arms 100% NECCESSARY in order to NOT rub?
Im ready to buy control arms, Im on ALTA's website. Do I need 2 sets of control arms (UPPER AND LOWER?) Or do I just need lower control arms? If so -- Whats the difference between the upper and lower control arms?

Im also ordering a RSB because that also will screw up my allignment since I have to take the strut assembly out the car (why does MINI have to do this?). Is the ALTA 22MM RSB a good swaybar?

If im going to do all this I want to make sure I do it right, thats why im buying the rsb and the control arms.

Also: Does the front swaybar also require removal of struts? I dont want to have to pay for 2 allignments..


Im not buying front camber plates yet because the wheels are 7.5" in the front and not 9"

 

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Dont mess with the front sway bar,and if your just driving on the street the 22mm sway bar is alittle much.You really need the lower control arms to adjust rear camber. If you get both upper and lower you can change your track width to get the wheel in the fender. If you want to do it write way,I would do coilovers with front camber plates,and upper lower control arms, and if you want a sway bar I would go with a 19mm.

 

I cant afford coilovers yet. I will get coilovers sometime probably a year down (ive only had my cooper for 2 months so far) I am just trying to get it done without rubbing for now.

H&R drop is only 1" in the front and .75" in the back. Is that even significant enough to cause rubbing?

Also, why is a 19mm rsb better than a 22mm on the street? (I dont know that much when it comes to suspension)

and last question What exactly do the upper control arms control and what exactly do the lower control arms control?

Thanks! Wish this forum had a reputation system (not traderrating)

edit: Just had to edit and fix the paragraph. Mozzilla firefox is acting up on me for the first time and its really pissing me off. Going to google chrome now...

 

Stratmospher has vmax coilovers on sale 649$. get lower controlarms to adjust camber. 22mm is to stiff for the street,it is ment for compotition. Do the suspension work before you get wheels.

 

Theyre on sale for 599$

goddd damn. as tempting as that sounds, I cant do it cause i wont have enough money for a tune.


Im not buying the wheels, im basically selling my wheels and using that money to buy the wheels.

And like i said i just bought the springs. Im not gonnna force myself/ let you guys tempt me to cut into my emergency money supply lol.

So I dont need to buy upper control arms?

edit:
Did a little bit of researching, MINI's have adjustable Toe from the factory, and rear upper control arms adjust the Toe.


So im just gonna buy the ALTA 19mm rsb, lower control arms,

 

No, one set of rear control arms should be fine.

 

Let me say that I like my toys LOUD, big block ski boat open headers , big block 1972 K5 Blazer vacum assisted exhaust cutouts and a few different exhausts on my Mini all able to set car alarms off I have heard a mini with a electric cut out which dumped exhaust straight after the cat but before the mufflers and it was one of the worst sounding engines I have ever heard. I was dissapointed as I thought the epectric switch would have been a nice way to have it reasonable around town and loud when you wanted it . It was loud as hell but not in a good way.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Yeah this is what i thought because TBH im not even a fan of the one-ball exhaust. Only reason im doing it is because i need it for the tune and after the tune I can always substitute the exhaust without having to worry (i think?). Sounds WAY too raspy/honda-ish.


I like loud too. I come from a subaru.. my impreza 2.5i (yes.. base impreza) was LOUD as ***** with the open exhaust (even with the primary cat) matter of fact i have a video somewhere. brb finding the video

 

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I like it . Here are two full bore passes with my favorite exhaust which was a Modified Borla Race system.

Randy
M7 Tuning

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...89/ppuser/1596

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...86/ppuser/1596

 

with just h&r Springs will not be low enough to cause any rubbing.. ur not low enough.. u really need both control arms .. all u need really is the lower control arms to adjust camber for street.. and u jut need a 19mm RSb for street.. 22mm is to stiff. i would prefer 16x9 all around. but if u like that staggered look. go ahead.

 

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Let me just say, if you want your car to be stanced like Rally's old car or my current car, dont waste your money on power mods, and dont waste your money on the rear sway bar. Your car will be far too low to even think about going fast and you'll have to be so careful when you turn that the sway bar doesnt matter.

Also, I'm on the stock rear control arms because I have the amount of camber I want. I do, however, NEED camber plates up front because once you lower it, you'll have positive camber:

 

Not true.

http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...ad.php?t=18406

 

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Das kool

Doesn't explain my car though (even though they were talking about my car.) I got no mushrooming or anything.

Speak for yourself

1. I drive a Justa. Slow no matter what. At least I look good doing it.

2. Even if I didn't, I wouldn't drive fast on the street. Thats for Hondas.

3. I would never take my car to the track enough to justify tons of power mods

I just wanted to make sure you werent wasting bread on stuff you wont even be able to use.

 

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I dunno maybe Im just different. I just enjoy driving slow.

Thats the beauty of modding, as long as you love your car, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks (bosozoku.) So do your mods your way and enjoy em.

Good choice on wheels too, I was thinking about getting them for my next set but I'm probably just gonna end up with RS's. We'll see.

 

If you are going to a car meet to show off to people in a parking lot, then why are you concerned about getting mods like and a tune in time that have 0 visual appeal?

 

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So he can have fun on the way there

 

If you are going for the rear sway, definately get the 22mm. Don't listen to people who say its to stiff for the steet and its only for comp. I use mine for both and its perfect for the street.

 

I consider myself as just an average MINI driver (one who uses my car as a DD, loves a good freeway onramp and a curvy canyon road, but doesn't race or AX) and I run a 19mm rear sway and just have it on the middle hole (medium setting). I originally thought I would go back at some point and change it to the stiffest setting if I felt the need but it's been just fine where it's at. If you get your rear sway bar too stiff, it can get you into trouble if you're not careful - as in the rear end can come around in a sudden maneuver.

 

^^True. Seen it happen before