Suspension rear track rods
#1
rear track rods
Getting my orders ready. Guess I am chicken to lower the car due to unresolved vibration issues, but still want the negative camber. Looks like SPC plates in the front. Rear. OK, lots of choices. Between H-sport and TSW. Easy. What I don't get is if you lengthen the lower bar to gain negative camber, will that not increase toe in? From the catalogs, they seem to imply only the lower bars are needed, or both to increase track. That would be slick, but again, would that not increase toe? Is there something not obvious about the R56 suspension? I want to stay about zero toe with 1.5 negative camber at stock ride height. Street use only.
#3
If the lower arms are lengthened with respect to the upper links to increase negative camber, what adjustment will return the toe without removing the negative camber? Is the front of the trailing arm movable in any way? Do you shim the hub onto the trailing arm? The toe adjustment in the stock suspension seems to be an eccentric bolt in the lower link rod.
Lengthening the lower rod without changing the upper rod would move the center-line of the hub outwards with respect to the trailing arm front mount. Toe in. It would seem to me that one would be forced to shorten the upper link such that the relative distance at the hub center does not change with respect to the front of the trailing arm.
Could one move the eccentric bolt to the upper arm and just use the adjustable lower link and get zero toe and 1.5 negative at stock ride height? Or do I have to buy 4 links to get negative camber at stock height? Looking at the ahgles, with bump you get progressive negative camber, but progressive toe in. There has to be a second adjustment.
Lengthening the lower rod without changing the upper rod would move the center-line of the hub outwards with respect to the trailing arm front mount. Toe in. It would seem to me that one would be forced to shorten the upper link such that the relative distance at the hub center does not change with respect to the front of the trailing arm.
Could one move the eccentric bolt to the upper arm and just use the adjustable lower link and get zero toe and 1.5 negative at stock ride height? Or do I have to buy 4 links to get negative camber at stock height? Looking at the ahgles, with bump you get progressive negative camber, but progressive toe in. There has to be a second adjustment.
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