Thursday my favorite mechanic hardwired my Valentine V1 and installed my H-Sport 19mm RSB and the NM Torque Arm Insert. I'm still doing brake in at 600 miles on my 2011 MCS. To adhere to the factory brake in, I drive through the city to and from work, rather than around it. In the warehouse district there are a couple of turns that I have been using to test the limits. Yesterday, the 19mm RSB gave me very flat cornering and almost neutral handling. My bar is in the middle setting.
I am so pleased, I think that if you plan any suspension improvments, you should just buy and install the adjustable RSB, then decide what other mods to do while enjoying the slightly modded stock suspension.
My next mods are IE fixed camber plates and Bilstein HDs. Recent developments and driving experiences have convinced me to retain stock ride height.

My H-Sport RSB and the NM Torque Insert came from Way Motor Works.

 

Curious why you do not want to lower the car.

 

You are so right about the sway bar being a great first mod

 

I have a new countryman do I need to replace the stock bar for more neutral handling.

 

By the way you guys ROCK!

 

My car is a daily driver. I have put a touch more than 600 miles on it since new. For the last two weeks I have been looking at the clearance when over any speed hump that either looks high or I scrapped when going over with my 08 335i Coupe/sport. I have also encountered some steep driveway approaches that scrapped a bit. My choice was TSW springs which lower it an inch. On some speed humps I did not have a half inch. My suspension should be still settling. The results of the 19mm H-Sport RSB convinced me that lowering isn't that necessary unless you are worried about your stance, not real world handling.

 

It just depends. If I had a countryman., I would leave it stock. To me its more of an SUV/Stationwagon. You would want to retain its safe understeering handling.
You are not going to do any HPDEs in it since all the organizations I know do not allow SUVs or Convertibles without roll cages.

 

I think lowering does improve handling but it does add to all sorts of problems especially for a daily driver.

I have a 08 MCS that I started lowering two years ago encountering lots of sub par parts and other lowering related issues. It is easy to get better handling with some lowering but it is difficult to get a great track suspension without investing lots of time and money. And good suspension mods do not come cheap.

I think you are doing the right thing with the plates and rsb. Drive it for some time to see what else you might need for your driving style.

 

I have only seen one suv on the track, a friend of mine at LRP. He was an advanced driver but his track car broke down and he only had his suv. They moved him down to inter 1 but he gave up after a couple of sessions.

 

Fixed, and I agree. Lots of crap out there as you know as many companies have no idea what they are doing.

There is a lot of potential in the Mini before lowering the car. For me, alignment is the most important so I did fixed camber plates and adj. rear control arms first (and Konis and some super mild drop springs that essentially look stock). I probably won't do a rear bar, but it is tempting and I will reconsider after my alignment is sorted (stupid shop). But I have an R53, and for an R56 the rear bar may be a better first mod since you can get a little more front camber without plates with the free camber mod.

It is a shame the R56 looks so high, but IMO doesn't need much more than a .5 to .75 inch drop looks-wise if you care about function and are on fixed perch OEM style struts. More is fine with coilovers.

- Andrew

 

Andyroo,
Which "mild drop springs" and which Konis did you choose?

 

I have an 2005 R53. I chose Koni Yellows. The FSD's just don't do it for me...too soft. The Yellows on full soft or a 1/4 turn from full soft ride great anyway....as good or better than stock with these springs. For the R56 I'd probably go with Bilstein, but I'm not sure.

I chose Tein H-tech. It's hard for me to admit it though, because I hate Tein and everything they stand for. They always have the worst specs for springs (too low and too soft) and their coilovers have crap valving with no travel. But somehow, there was some sort of glitch in the matrix and they did a good job with the Tein H-tech for the R53. Maybe they had a British guy with a Mini in the office who finally had his chance to design a product with the actual function of the car in mind. Anyway, they're pretty good. Not perfect. Dirt cheap though.

I wanted to design my own spring (for R53 and R56), but me and maybe one other guy would have bought them, so it didn't happen. I would have kept the same 15mm front 10mm rear drop and just made them a little bit firmer. All in all, I'm really happy with my set-up in terms of looks, handling, and ride quality.

I don't know if they offer a spring for the R56.

- andrew

 

Andyroo, I thought you are a bilstein guy. I actually do like Koni FSD for the street from a few cars I have driven with it. Koni yellows can be a trouble to adjust on the rear but I like them overall. People I know with them tend to leave the rear setting in the middle and just adjust the fronts.

I am really happy with the ASTs as you can tell, coming from really expensive sub par stuff. I might move to the 550 in/lb rear spring rate later in the season.

 

Haha, I am a bilstein guy and I'm a bit surprised how much I like the konis for a simple street setup. I got a good deal on a used set. I wish they had bilstein hds for my car, they would probably make me happier but for now these work well. The rear is a pain to adjust but I generally don't touch shocks after their set anyway, especially as I'm not a track guy at the moment. Maybe a little autox this year.

AST is great stuff, glad to hear you got something that works!

 

I am a tinkerer so I have adjusted the ride height three times already and also changed my rebound dampening four times. I think I have found my street settings.

My torn CVs are currently being replaced now for the second time (a by product of the previous coils). After that is track time.

If you are ever in the NE and can stomach a ride at LRP or WGI, you are welcome to join us.

 

Awesome, i'll keep that in mind.

- Andrew

 

You are always welcome.

And you will get a first hand look as to why I am so obsessed with the suspension and brakes.

 

I am awaiting delivery of my 2011 JCW Hardtop, with the factory installed "sport suspension" option. (not JCW)

Although I like a bit of an understeer, I do want to reduce most of it, if the "sport suspension' option does not, by installing a larger RSB.

Would anyone be able to tell me if the "SS" option I am purchasing does have a larger bar than stock and what size RSB you would suggest if you think the one coming with the vehicle will not do the trick?

I would also appreciate any suggestions about who amongst the vendors would be able to furnish me with a quality RSB and who might be a terrific choice to install it in northern NJ or Rockland/Westchester counties in NY?

Thanks as always,
Ballyrick

 

I would drive your car around for a while first to see what you would want to change based on your driving style before adding anything to it.

The sports suspension does increase the size of the front and rear bar a little. So in essence, it really does not change understeer from the standard suspension.

If I was to get one, I would get the 20 mm whiteline rsb.

 

Ballyrick, I would suggest doing like Slinger said. Drive the car first and decide what YOU think. IMO the sway bar is a must do and I wouldn't have a MINI without it. If you want a rear bar I would suggest the Hsport 19mm they are some of the best bars available and don't squeak.

 

Thank you all (Slinger688 and WMW) for your input. I remember very loud and irritating squeaks from after market bars years ago, for my Acura Integras. I think the bushings needed constant lubrication.

What makes the Hsport so quiet and will the 19mm RSB reduce understeer, as long as I do not change the front bar? I do like a little "understeer," so I hope not to eliminate it all together.

Any idea of the size of the FSB and
RSB on the stock suspension or the "Sport Suspension" option that I am buying?

I also am getting the front rotors drilled and the cross brace.

How do I get in touch with the vendor when the time comes?
Any thoughts about a really good installer up north in NY/NJ?

Thanks again,
Ballyrick

 

H-Sport sway bars have bushings that can be lubed with grease fittings. A 19mm RSB is all you need for street and HPDE.
I have been told that drilled brake rotors are worthless other than cosmetic. Just get good pads. SS brake lines are nice too.

I usually use Way Motor Works as my vendor. Just tonight. I got a reply to my PM to them about my next upgrades. You just gotta trust a vendor that tells you that his part that has his company's name on it, ain't gonna improve your car

 

Claud,

Thanks for your reply and for the recommendation for Way.
How often do their bushings require "greasing?"
How do I reach them by phone and who should I speak with?
I am very new to this club and still a month away from receiving my JCW.

By the way, I had great experience with drilled rotors on a 1994 Saab that I just sold. More than 50,000 miles on the front rotors and never had to do a thing with them. No matter how hard I used them, they kept cooler than stock and would not warp.

Ballyrick

 

Not meant to hi-jack this thread, but a couple related thoughts/questions.

Just lowered my Cooper (H&R Springs: 1.4") and 19mm RSB from ALTA. Handling is phenomenal - now I know what everyone was talking about when they say installing the RSB is the best suspension mod.

Since mine is the Gen 2, I'm having no issues with being lower. I'm sure I may encounter a steep driveway entrance eventually, but I don't think I'm too far off from where a Gen 1 sits.

I have developed a squeak - but not from the RSB. It seems to be coming from the passenger side front spring. What could possibly be the reason? I know it's difficult to diagnose without seeing it/hearing it for yourself, but sounds like there are some serious trackers here so thought I'd throw it out there. I am bringing the car back to the guy that did the install and he's already heard the squeak - hopefully it will get resolved.

 

Ballyrick, I also ran Porsche 997 and Lotus Elise with drilled rotors on the track for a few years without any issues. But on track Minis, I have seen some problems with the JCW drilled rotors, ie cracking and gunking in a few instances.

With respect to rear sway bars, I find the 19 mm sometimes too lightweight and the 22 mm too heavy so I like the 20 mm whiteline since it gives you more useable adjustments for my purpose. Make sure you have either greasing bushings or Teflon infused bushings with channels to reduce squeaks. Otherwise it will drive you nuts.