Suspension questions about shock absorbers for a 2007 r56 MCS
#1
questions about shock absorbers for a 2007 r56 MCS
hi guys!
been reading on the forums about how adding shock absorbers can really transform the ride of the MINI - the one thing i hate about the MINI is how rough the ride is over bumps, potholes, etc. it sounded like an amazing solution! i don't have any knowledge about cars/suspension, so please bear my ignorance :0
first, i own a 2007 MCS that has sport package on it. i've got the OEM RFT tires on it too. the car is still under certified pre-owned warranty until may 2013. there's no other mods to the car, aside from a m7 heat shield and a chrome hood scoop here's my questions:
#1 would installing shock absorbers like the koni FSDs void my warranty in any way?
#2 what is the best value brand of shock absorbers? i've read that the koni FSDs are very good but they are pricey - seems to be around $800 or so. are there any other brands that are good but not as expensive? i just saw there's bilstein hd shocks too - seem to be better priced - around $650 or so? those any good? if you have actual sources for places to buy from, that'd be appreciated. i live in toronto canada.
#3 how long does installation take and how much does it cost roughly?
#4 is there anything else i'd need to know about shock absorbers? would i just need to install them and them i'm good to go?
thanks for the help!!
been reading on the forums about how adding shock absorbers can really transform the ride of the MINI - the one thing i hate about the MINI is how rough the ride is over bumps, potholes, etc. it sounded like an amazing solution! i don't have any knowledge about cars/suspension, so please bear my ignorance :0
first, i own a 2007 MCS that has sport package on it. i've got the OEM RFT tires on it too. the car is still under certified pre-owned warranty until may 2013. there's no other mods to the car, aside from a m7 heat shield and a chrome hood scoop here's my questions:
#1 would installing shock absorbers like the koni FSDs void my warranty in any way?
#2 what is the best value brand of shock absorbers? i've read that the koni FSDs are very good but they are pricey - seems to be around $800 or so. are there any other brands that are good but not as expensive? i just saw there's bilstein hd shocks too - seem to be better priced - around $650 or so? those any good? if you have actual sources for places to buy from, that'd be appreciated. i live in toronto canada.
#3 how long does installation take and how much does it cost roughly?
#4 is there anything else i'd need to know about shock absorbers? would i just need to install them and them i'm good to go?
thanks for the help!!
Last edited by col127; 09-22-2011 at 08:18 AM.
#2
I can answer one of your questions.
"Installing new shocks will not void your warranty".
If a smoother ride is what you are after, changing to non-runflats may be your best option. Of course better shocks will help, but in my opinion runflats are the culprit to the harsh stiff ride. New shocks like the Konis you have mentioned combined with non-runflats will be a noticeable improvement.
I have not installed new shocks yet, but I have inquired and the response I received was that the install is fairly easy and straight forward. I believe you will be required to have an alignment done after install.
AXO
"Installing new shocks will not void your warranty".
If a smoother ride is what you are after, changing to non-runflats may be your best option. Of course better shocks will help, but in my opinion runflats are the culprit to the harsh stiff ride. New shocks like the Konis you have mentioned combined with non-runflats will be a noticeable improvement.
I have not installed new shocks yet, but I have inquired and the response I received was that the install is fairly easy and straight forward. I believe you will be required to have an alignment done after install.
AXO
#3
I can answer one of your questions.
"Installing new shocks will not void your warranty".
If a smoother ride is what you are after, changing to non-runflats may be your best option. Of course better shocks will help, but in my opinion runflats are the culprit to the harsh stiff ride. New shocks like the Konis you have mentioned combined with non-runflats will be a noticeable improvement.
I have not installed new shocks yet, but I have inquired and the response I received was that the install is fairly easy and straight forward. I believe you will be required to have an alignment done after install.
AXO
"Installing new shocks will not void your warranty".
If a smoother ride is what you are after, changing to non-runflats may be your best option. Of course better shocks will help, but in my opinion runflats are the culprit to the harsh stiff ride. New shocks like the Konis you have mentioned combined with non-runflats will be a noticeable improvement.
I have not installed new shocks yet, but I have inquired and the response I received was that the install is fairly easy and straight forward. I believe you will be required to have an alignment done after install.
AXO
#4
The stock shocks are junk. Even brand new, they do not absorb shocks from the road. Instead your MINI bounces and skips from one bump to the next. I still have my original runflats too, but I recently installed Koni Sport Yellow shocks. Its a major ride improvement. If you are not going to lower your car with NM or TSW etc springs, the Koni FSDs should make you very happy.
#5
bump to revisit this topic
I too am not happy with the firm ride of the stock suspension. I would prefer something similar to what I have in my 335xi.
What is the most effective way to improve handling, but to also make a softer more compliant ride (especially since wheelbase is very short on the MCS). Roads in my neck of the woods are very bad....riddled with potholes, cracks, frost heaves, expansion joints, etc
Thanks, if necessary, I am open to PM's for answers or additional questions on my vehicle and my wishes for overall suspension happiness.
I too am not happy with the firm ride of the stock suspension. I would prefer something similar to what I have in my 335xi.
What is the most effective way to improve handling, but to also make a softer more compliant ride (especially since wheelbase is very short on the MCS). Roads in my neck of the woods are very bad....riddled with potholes, cracks, frost heaves, expansion joints, etc
Thanks, if necessary, I am open to PM's for answers or additional questions on my vehicle and my wishes for overall suspension happiness.
#6
There's a lot of harsh ride effects with the run-flats as the tire sideways are extremely rigid and stiff.
Second would be to change out the struts and shock assembly.
As noted above and everywhere on the forums, the OEM units are not matched well with the spring rates.
Changing those out with a Bilstein, Koni, or H&R replacement would help your situation.
- Erik
#7
Thanks for the advice. I am still running on RFT's since I just bought my car in July. I also have RFT'S winters (bought the set cheap off local forum section)
I would love feedback on whether the Bilstein or Koni is the best strut to match with an OEM spring, or a modest drop (eibach pro??)
TIA,
Steve
I would love feedback on whether the Bilstein or Koni is the best strut to match with an OEM spring, or a modest drop (eibach pro??)
TIA,
Steve
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#8
A new set of non-RF tires will cost less than the shocks, not to mention the installation cost of the shocks. This will make a HUGE difference in the ride. I had a 335i and rode the RF's until they needed to be replaced and replaced them with non-RF's. What a difference! I kicked myself that I hadn't done it sooner. So, when I got my MINI, I swapped out the RF's with just 150 miles on them. If you can't afford to do both the Koni's and the tires, would opt for the tires.
#10
On stock springs, you'll be happy with either the Bilstein HDs or the Koni FSDs. The Bilsteins will be a little more "sporty" but still very comfortable compared to stock. The standard and sport shocks are junk. If you're planning on lowering springs, get Bilstein Sports or Koni Yellows. Lowering the car won't help though.
Yes, removing runflats helps. But so does changing the shocks. I run Koni Yellow sport shocks and it rides better than stock (and handles MUCH better). Both Bilsteins and Koni FSDs will ride even nicer.
- drew
Yes, removing runflats helps. But so does changing the shocks. I run Koni Yellow sport shocks and it rides better than stock (and handles MUCH better). Both Bilsteins and Koni FSDs will ride even nicer.
- drew
#11
Agree with the others, changing to non run flats will help but the oem shocks on these suck.
I've got 205/50/16's on Enkei wheels and I do like them over the stock 195/55/16's.
I've also added a 19mm rear sway bar (replaced the 17mm stock one), that makes handling better.
I'm probably going to go with some new shocks soon but not sure either which ones to go for. They're all pricy for the Mini.
Oh, I'm not lowering mine either. I think it's low enough as it is.
I've got 205/50/16's on Enkei wheels and I do like them over the stock 195/55/16's.
I've also added a 19mm rear sway bar (replaced the 17mm stock one), that makes handling better.
I'm probably going to go with some new shocks soon but not sure either which ones to go for. They're all pricy for the Mini.
Oh, I'm not lowering mine either. I think it's low enough as it is.
#12
Just a couple of things.
If you lower the car, don't use the Billy HD or the FSD's. You will be riding on the internal front bumpstop with even the TSW springs. (3/4" lower). If you lower the car, use the Billy sports or the Koni yellows.
Another factory in ride quality is wheel and tire size. 16's ride better than 17's. 17's are better than 18's... But you gotta pay to play...lol
My car rode noticeably better after I installed the TSW springs and Koni yellow's. I installed an H Sport rear bar at the same time.
The 16" winter wheels and tires have a nocer ride than the 17" OE crown spokes and tires. Both are runflat.
MINI can't void the entire warranty, but they could deny a claim on almost anything related to the suspension. Mushroomed shock towers. ball joint failure... (I said could not would... and it's really a finction of how mod friendly the dealer is...)
If you lower the car, don't use the Billy HD or the FSD's. You will be riding on the internal front bumpstop with even the TSW springs. (3/4" lower). If you lower the car, use the Billy sports or the Koni yellows.
Another factory in ride quality is wheel and tire size. 16's ride better than 17's. 17's are better than 18's... But you gotta pay to play...lol
My car rode noticeably better after I installed the TSW springs and Koni yellow's. I installed an H Sport rear bar at the same time.
The 16" winter wheels and tires have a nocer ride than the 17" OE crown spokes and tires. Both are runflat.
MINI can't void the entire warranty, but they could deny a claim on almost anything related to the suspension. Mushroomed shock towers. ball joint failure... (I said could not would... and it's really a finction of how mod friendly the dealer is...)
#13
I have OEM 17" wheels on the RFT's, plus I was able to get RFT winters on JCW 17" wheels.
I am not in a rush to get rid of the RFT's, but would want to make the ride a little less harsh, something smoother.
So would the FSD be the best bet to keep the car stock height and improve feel and make a slightly softer ride?
I am not in a rush to get rid of the RFT's, but would want to make the ride a little less harsh, something smoother.
So would the FSD be the best bet to keep the car stock height and improve feel and make a slightly softer ride?
#14
I'm not lowering mine but I've talked with Way at WayMotorWorks and he suggested them as a vast improvement over stock shocks.
Bilstein has some also maybe slightly cheaper but I like the Koni's.
Even at that four of 'em will run you about $750. I believe www.waymotorworks.com has them on sale now.
Bilstein has some also maybe slightly cheaper but I like the Koni's.
Even at that four of 'em will run you about $750. I believe www.waymotorworks.com has them on sale now.
#17
For improved ride on really rough roads, I would suggest my setup; Justa springs, Bilstein HDs. IE camber plates will allow proper alignment and even tire wear.
BTW, Conti runflats are not worth replacing before 20K miles. Most other brands are, though.
Definitely never use runflats when buying new tires.
DOC
BTW, Conti runflats are not worth replacing before 20K miles. Most other brands are, though.
Definitely never use runflats when buying new tires.
DOC
#19
FSDs
Hey OP,
I am from London, ON and just ordered a set of FSDs from motoringwerks.com for $690+30 shipping. They only retailer I could find in Ontario was NorthernPerformance.ca in Burlingon who sell it for $1200. I had my order shipped to SCC parcel pick up(usparcelpickup.com) in Port Huron. They charge $5 for recieving and holding packages for 30days. I'll be going to pick up my kit in the next 3 weeks. Let me know if you want some help arranging an order or even picking it up
I am from London, ON and just ordered a set of FSDs from motoringwerks.com for $690+30 shipping. They only retailer I could find in Ontario was NorthernPerformance.ca in Burlingon who sell it for $1200. I had my order shipped to SCC parcel pick up(usparcelpickup.com) in Port Huron. They charge $5 for recieving and holding packages for 30days. I'll be going to pick up my kit in the next 3 weeks. Let me know if you want some help arranging an order or even picking it up
#20
Here's some feedback on my setup: I had a set of Bilstein HDs and IE camber plates put on by a performance shop -- $538 for set of 4 from AllShocks, $200 for camber plates from AutoXCooper, and $640 for installation and 4-wheel alignment.
In one sense, it rides somewhat stiffer ('08 Justa with 15" wheels), but it holds the road better without skipping over rough pavement.
7 months later left rear is leaking fluid and eventually discharges to the point where the rear end bounces side-to-side over bumps because of the difference in damped and undamped springs on the different sides.
Bilstein has a lifetime warranty, so no problem, right? Not so fast. Still have to pay shipping for the replacement shock, shipping for sending the bad shock back for warranty claim, another $190 to swap out the shock, and another $140 for 4-wheel alignment again.
Now, 11 months later, and the left rear shock is leaking again. Bilstein's warranty page shows a light film on the surface of the shock to be "normal" and not a warrantable claim. I'll just have to see if this one discharges over time again.
I can tell you one thing, though -- I will NOT keep paying to have replacement Bilstein's put on again and again, and I will never use them again. I know they're supposed to be "the best" and everything, but I don't find that to be the case.
Not sure what I would replace them with yet, so just hoping for now that it doesn't come to that.
In one sense, it rides somewhat stiffer ('08 Justa with 15" wheels), but it holds the road better without skipping over rough pavement.
7 months later left rear is leaking fluid and eventually discharges to the point where the rear end bounces side-to-side over bumps because of the difference in damped and undamped springs on the different sides.
Bilstein has a lifetime warranty, so no problem, right? Not so fast. Still have to pay shipping for the replacement shock, shipping for sending the bad shock back for warranty claim, another $190 to swap out the shock, and another $140 for 4-wheel alignment again.
Now, 11 months later, and the left rear shock is leaking again. Bilstein's warranty page shows a light film on the surface of the shock to be "normal" and not a warrantable claim. I'll just have to see if this one discharges over time again.
I can tell you one thing, though -- I will NOT keep paying to have replacement Bilstein's put on again and again, and I will never use them again. I know they're supposed to be "the best" and everything, but I don't find that to be the case.
Not sure what I would replace them with yet, so just hoping for now that it doesn't come to that.
#21
#23
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your setup. I have used Bilsteins on over 30 vehicles in 40 years, formula cars, sedans and trucks. I have only seen failures on three occasions and they have ALWAYS been for the SAME reason, INTERNAL BOTTOMING. Ironically, this will never be a problem with the HDs on the front of a Mini because they are a unique design that incorporates the bump stops INSIDE the shock.
HOWEVER, the rears DEPEND on an external bumpstop. I can virtually guarantee you that the rear bumpstops were either NOT re-installed when the rear Bilsteins were installed or perhaps were trimmed. I do NOT have the rear Bilsteins installed on my Justa yet, just the fronts, so I do not have actual experience with this exact situation. I had one application with my '99 Passat where the instructions called for trimming the bumpstops when installing front Bilsteins, but it turned out that the FULL stock length was needed, PLUS another half, because the Bilstein bodies were shorter than OEM. After, correcting that problem, I put 280,000 miles on them and they are STILL going strong without any leakage or deterioration of damping.
So, if the rear OEM bumpstops are in place, are undamaged and have NOT been trimmed, you need to make SURE that when the rear suspension is FULLY bottomed, HARD, the rear shocks have at LEAST another 1/4" of bump travel remaining.
BTW, most dealers for all shocks do require that the manufacturer approve the warranty replacement before supplying a replacement shock. So, to avoid inconvenience, you do have to buy a new shock, install it, then wait for a credit.
Konis are good for the Mini, too, but are more expensive and will fail as well if they bottom internally.
DOC
HOWEVER, the rears DEPEND on an external bumpstop. I can virtually guarantee you that the rear bumpstops were either NOT re-installed when the rear Bilsteins were installed or perhaps were trimmed. I do NOT have the rear Bilsteins installed on my Justa yet, just the fronts, so I do not have actual experience with this exact situation. I had one application with my '99 Passat where the instructions called for trimming the bumpstops when installing front Bilsteins, but it turned out that the FULL stock length was needed, PLUS another half, because the Bilstein bodies were shorter than OEM. After, correcting that problem, I put 280,000 miles on them and they are STILL going strong without any leakage or deterioration of damping.
So, if the rear OEM bumpstops are in place, are undamaged and have NOT been trimmed, you need to make SURE that when the rear suspension is FULLY bottomed, HARD, the rear shocks have at LEAST another 1/4" of bump travel remaining.
BTW, most dealers for all shocks do require that the manufacturer approve the warranty replacement before supplying a replacement shock. So, to avoid inconvenience, you do have to buy a new shock, install it, then wait for a credit.
Konis are good for the Mini, too, but are more expensive and will fail as well if they bottom internally.
DOC
#25
A well equipped shop with experience changing springs and shocks on an R56 should take no more than 90 min. A careful alignment on a modern computerized rack should not take more than 30 min.
So, even at $150/hr., that's only $300. Bavarian's price for rear HDs is now $89.95, so that's a lot for labor.
It has been a while since I did my car. I am not sure whether you can change a rear shock on an R56 without altering any of the suspension settings. It may require re-alignment, but most shops would do that for no more than $100.
DOC
So, even at $150/hr., that's only $300. Bavarian's price for rear HDs is now $89.95, so that's a lot for labor.
It has been a while since I did my car. I am not sure whether you can change a rear shock on an R56 without altering any of the suspension settings. It may require re-alignment, but most shops would do that for no more than $100.
DOC
Last edited by DOC4444; 02-03-2012 at 04:05 PM.