Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension Question about rear lower control arm install

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  #26  
Old 04-13-2013 | 05:29 PM
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Oh alternatively you can trim the heat shield to get access from the back. I hate that option though :X
 
  #27  
Old 04-13-2013 | 08:27 PM
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But wont the bolt just spin if you cant hold it from the side closest to the gas tank?

I checked Sears today, they didnt have anything that was 1.5" long.
 
  #28  
Old 04-13-2013 | 08:28 PM
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Holy crap, 300ft/lbs? How haha
 
  #29  
Old 04-14-2013 | 05:12 AM
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Round about way of doing it is to get an inch long socket and place an adapter on it. I believe my socket was 1/2 inch and I just used a converter to drop it to 3/8. Together that gave me the length I wanted.
 
  #30  
Old 04-14-2013 | 01:34 PM
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Problem #1, solved....

1/4" drive ratchet > 1/4" to 3/8" adapter > 1" long 3/8" drive impact socket

Question about rear lower control arm install-dbsjkrvl.jpg



Problem #2, I have no F**KING clue what to do about this...

Square nut spun within the silly clip thing when trying to remove the bolt

Question about rear lower control arm install-c9vv49cl.jpg
 
  #31  
Old 04-14-2013 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
Problem #1, solved....
Problem #2, I have no F**KING clue what to do about this...

Square nut spun within the silly clip thing when trying to remove the bolt

Put the sheet metal nut back into place, put a small screwdriver through the holes while you tighten it so the nut doesn't spin. Mine broke off too.
 
  #32  
Old 04-14-2013 | 05:29 PM
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I did that, the problem is that the nut has pushed the sheet metal out so it doesnt catch anymore. You can see it curve out there a bit.

I tried forming the sheetmetal back into its natural shape, but it just bent again the next time I tried to loosen it.

Might have to bite the bullet and take the car to Way or someone.
 
  #33  
Old 04-15-2013 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
I did that, the problem is that the nut has pushed the sheet metal out so it doesnt catch anymore. You can see it curve out there a bit.

I tried forming the sheetmetal back into its natural shape, but it just bent again the next time I tried to loosen it.

Might have to bite the bullet and take the car to Way or someone.
I must be misunderstanding you. In mind mind as long as that sheet metal nut is not rotating, you can tighten it down. I must be missing something here...
 
  #34  
Old 04-15-2013 | 09:35 AM
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Hopefully this makes it more clear

 
  #35  
Old 04-15-2013 | 12:23 PM
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AH HA!!!!!

Find what the thread pitch is and but a big nut and washer from your local hardware store. That'll put this to bed.

Looks like it's M12 X 1.5 X 100. You might want to get a little longer bolt (110 maybe) so it'll reach through the washer and nut. Not sure if 100 will be long enough for a washer and nut.
 
  #36  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:16 PM
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Well, Im trying to take the bolt out, not keep it in. I have a few ideas related to vice grips.
 
  #37  
Old 04-15-2013 | 02:50 PM
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Yea that should do it. Work on that grip strength! Then replace with a bolt and nut.
 
  #38  
Old 04-18-2013 | 06:34 PM
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Picked this up from the dealer today. Going to have a fun little Saturday. Will probably just break out the hacksaw and cut the old one off.

Question about rear lower control arm install-dque9bj.jpg
 
  #39  
Old 04-20-2013 | 10:13 AM
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Hacksaw solved the problem

Question about rear lower control arm install-gp1bexc.jpg
 
  #40  
Old 04-22-2013 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by countryboyshane
I did it this winter when the car was in storage in my garage. We'll take a close look at the paint marks when I get it on the track this Spring. 90 ft-lbs is A LOT! With how the bolt practically interferes with the metal I would not suspect that it would vibrate loose at that tension. You don't need anti-seize either. That's going to only increase the risk factor when you're tightening it. I've seen some others do the bolt and nut job but you need to grind down the control arm to have the replacement bolt/nut sit flat. Not pretty.

There are good days, and then there's days you have to heli-coil
I torqued to 90ft/lbs with anti-seize applied.

Im looking into safety wire. Maybe stop at 80ft/lbs, but then safety wire it in place.
 
  #41  
Old 05-15-2013 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by IzzyG
Make a special trip to Sears to get the right tool. That's what I had to do ;(
Come on guys, a new project is the perfect excuse to make that trip to Sears/Lowe's/Advanced or whatever store carries the tool/gadget you want/need to complete your project!
We can't help it, it's in our DNA!
 
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