Suspension Question about Koni yellows...
#1
Question about Koni yellows...
I think I have a bad left front strut. After a few really rough bumps on the highway my car developed a strange rattling noise that I have narrowed down to either a strut mount or a bad strut. My question is -- is there any reason why it would be a bad idea to do koni yellows on just the front until I have funds to do the rear? It just doesn't make sense to replace with oem when I know they are going to fail with my H&R springs. I just cant afford all 4 right now.
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I've done it (new shocks up front and old ones in the rear), and it's not a pleasant ride. It's not unsafe, but it causes the back to bounce ever so slightly as you drive and hit bumps and dips in the road. It feels like you're on a boat rocking on waves. It will also add to under steer ever so slightly.
The rattle could just be a loose bolt or loose or broken end link. A bad strut will leak and be very bouncy and that corner of the car might sag noticeably lower. You'll know when you have a bad strut, a rattle or clunk is something else.
The rattle could just be a loose bolt or loose or broken end link. A bad strut will leak and be very bouncy and that corner of the car might sag noticeably lower. You'll know when you have a bad strut, a rattle or clunk is something else.
Last edited by leaf_fan_1988; 10-11-2013 at 09:31 AM. Reason: grammar
#7
Thanks for the input. I think I am going to try the strut mount first. Everything seems to point there. The noise I am getting is only under hard bumps and really hard cornering and the car doesn't respond any differently than it ever has. I have had the car on a lift and absolutely everything looked fine. The only thing I didn't check was the strut mount, but it looked fine from up top so I didn't investigate any further.
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I would like to get the car back on a lift and check to see if it drops any when being lifted. A technician friend tells me that if you have a bad mount then it will drop down in the strut tower farther than the opposite side when you lift the car on a standard 2 post lift. I may have a chance today. I'll post up with the results later.
#10
I would like to get the car back on a lift and check to see if it drops any when being lifted. A technician friend tells me that if you have a bad mount then it will drop down in the strut tower farther than the opposite side when you lift the car on a standard 2 post lift. I may have a chance today. I'll post up with the results later.
#12
If you have a helper, you could keep a finger on the nut (where it touches the mount) while the car is jacked up. If the nut is loose (even a little), you should feel it shift when the weight comes off the wheel. You can feel the other side for comparison.
It is not uncommon for the upper strut nut to loosen after changing springs. It is tough to get any significant torque on it because of the shaft rotating, and there is usually less preload with lowering springs.
Have fun,
Mike
It is not uncommon for the upper strut nut to loosen after changing springs. It is tough to get any significant torque on it because of the shaft rotating, and there is usually less preload with lowering springs.
Have fun,
Mike
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