Suspension lowering my 2013 Cooper S hardtop Help!
#1
lowering my 2013 Cooper S hardtop Help!
I am still undecided but I'd probably end up with a KW v2 or KW v3 in the next week or so.. The V3 is probably overkill for a non track car tho. I have a mini cooper S, NON sport suspension.
My question is, what else do i need if i order the KW v2? I am running 16s stock with runflats (i know i know! i have to diss them lol but im probably gonna do the bbk and i do not want to spend any $ on tires if i am going to upgrade to 17's)
Do i need camber links? spacers? or would i be fine with just everything in the box + my stock wheels and tires? would you suggest better sway bars?
I do not have an extra car so and it would really help to tell me what i would need before i pay ridiculous coilover installation charges only to find out i am missing pieces..
btw,
first brandnew car in my life (finally!!!) first mini cooper, first time lowering, first everything pls help. Advance Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
My question is, what else do i need if i order the KW v2? I am running 16s stock with runflats (i know i know! i have to diss them lol but im probably gonna do the bbk and i do not want to spend any $ on tires if i am going to upgrade to 17's)
Do i need camber links? spacers? or would i be fine with just everything in the box + my stock wheels and tires? would you suggest better sway bars?
I do not have an extra car so and it would really help to tell me what i would need before i pay ridiculous coilover installation charges only to find out i am missing pieces..
btw,
first brandnew car in my life (finally!!!) first mini cooper, first time lowering, first everything pls help. Advance Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
#2
I have KW V3s, and love 'em, though I auto cross in the summers.
First off, depending on how low you go, you may need spacers on the front. I slammed mine and shredded both front tires as there isn't much room for clearance (on stock rims). That was a nice $535 mistake.
I also installed end links and a rear sway bar. I haven't played with the end links yet, so no comment on them (came w/ the V3s), but a better RSB will make loads of difference in handling.
Plan your future rims accordingly once you see how close clearance is to the springs, you'll want to adjust offset accordingly.
First off, depending on how low you go, you may need spacers on the front. I slammed mine and shredded both front tires as there isn't much room for clearance (on stock rims). That was a nice $535 mistake.
I also installed end links and a rear sway bar. I haven't played with the end links yet, so no comment on them (came w/ the V3s), but a better RSB will make loads of difference in handling.
Plan your future rims accordingly once you see how close clearance is to the springs, you'll want to adjust offset accordingly.
#3
With the KW's I'd add adjustable swaybar end links front and rear as well as H-sport rear adjustable control arms. The rear control arms allow you to dial in camber. The front should have camber plates, I'd suggest Vorshlag. So you can now adjust front and rear camber and control height with the coilovers. If you don't have a RSB you should also look at them. I use a NM 22mm bar. One other thing you should look at is the KW B-specs. They will save you money as they have less adjustment then the V3's and another option since your not tracking is the KW V1's.
Good Luck, I'll be picking up so B-specs from Way this winter.
Good Luck, I'll be picking up so B-specs from Way this winter.
#4
For a daily driver, KW V2s would probably be more than enough. V3s are more less the same as V2s, but with dual dampening and rebound adjustment. In this price range, you should also consider Bilstein PSS10s. As a bonus, they include end links.
If you don't care for dampening adjustment and want something more friendly on your wallet, KW V1 is a good choice.
For info on KWs and spacers, check out this tread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...you-using.html
BTW, End links are optional. Since you not tracking the car, you probably do not need them. However, if you plan on doing corner balancing, then yes, you need them.
And +1 on Vorschlag Camber Plates and Rear control arms. A must have with coilovers IMO.
If you don't care for dampening adjustment and want something more friendly on your wallet, KW V1 is a good choice.
For info on KWs and spacers, check out this tread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...you-using.html
BTW, End links are optional. Since you not tracking the car, you probably do not need them. However, if you plan on doing corner balancing, then yes, you need them.
And +1 on Vorschlag Camber Plates and Rear control arms. A must have with coilovers IMO.
#5
thanks alot for the responses. Im leaning towards the V2 tsw. So a sway bar is recommended? also, my car is on stock R119 16s i believe they are +48. Would i need spacers and if i do which one should i get? I am thinking of dropping it around 1.5" I will be paying a shop to install this for me and would like to have everything i need before i set up an appointment.. Thanks again!
#6
thanks alot for the responses. Im leaning towards the V2 tsw. So a sway bar is recommended? also, my car is on stock R119 16s i believe they are +48. Would i need spacers and if i do which one should i get? I am thinking of dropping it around 1.5" I will be paying a shop to install this for me and would like to have everything i need before i set up an appointment.. Thanks again!
As you lower the car, the suspension geometry will change and you will pickup additional negative camber front and rear. Toe will change as well, though I forgot if you get additional toe IN or toe out (I believe it's the former).
To bring both front and rear toe and camber to where you want it (likely not stock anymore), you will need camber plates up front, and 2 sets of adjustable rear control arms in the back (4 arms in total). Plus an experienced independent alignment shop.
On top of all of the above, you may or may not choose to add additional suspension pieces. The highly beneficial upgrade is an adjustable rear 20 or 22mm sway bar. It is easier to install rear sway bar while the shocks are out. Adjustable end links not required unless you really slam the front, at which point you may need shorter sway bar links.
Pick an experienced independent shop that has done MINI coil-over installs before and can advise you on what you are getting yourself into and what parts will be required to achieve the desired end-state.
HTH,
a
#7
I wouldn't say that front camber plates are required. I know some people that have done without them but I wouldn't say that's the best idea since the front camber is now the cars weak point for high performance driving. When you think about it, what's another $400-500 at this point For street ONLY you will be OK, so only the rear needs camber correction via adjustable arms.
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#8
You don't need 2 set of control arms for the rear. You only need 1 set for the lower control arms. You don't need adjustable arms for the uppers the stock ones will be fine. When I lowered mine I only replaced the lowers and it aligned correctly. I later replaced the uppers and I really did this for looks only.
#11
#13
Install is pretty simple if you ever did lowering springs. It's not much different. You reuse the top hats from your stock shocks for the rears and since you have camber plates the front are just a straight replacement. Setting the car up after the install is where the magic happens. If not doing it yourself, I'd recommend a mini shop or local race shop that deals with German cars.
#16
Waiting,waiting,waiting...
I ordered a set of KW V2 and Vorschlags plates on 2/19. I cancelled the order on 4/20. I then re- ordered a set of Ohlins and the camber plates from PSI, the very same day. Now, at the end of May, I'm still waiting…. somewhat patiently.
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