Suspension Suspension: Stock vs. FSD vs. B4 ??
#79
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Not sure. I have seen 44% off but that was off the $1200 list price I saw, so the price was about $640
Here is the best price so far:
http://www.emnotek.com/p-3674-mini-c...FUxZhgodIhwKRw
Here is the best price so far:
http://www.emnotek.com/p-3674-mini-c...FUxZhgodIhwKRw
#80
Not sure. I have seen 44% off but that was off the $1200 list price I saw, so the price was about $640
Here is the best price so far:
http://www.emnotek.com/p-3674-mini-c...FUxZhgodIhwKRw
Here is the best price so far:
http://www.emnotek.com/p-3674-mini-c...FUxZhgodIhwKRw
#81
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#83
Thanks
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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#84
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
The part number seems to line up with that for the R53, which means it will fit the R50. Interesting, the Koni web page does not list these for the R50...just a little confused.
#85
There a bug with the fits section for some parts, we are working on it , when you select your MINI from our drop down it will reflect the fits by the drop down / car selected. Thanks
Those are for the R50 R52 R53 Gen 1 as we are in the gen 1 section of the forums.
The Gen 2 KONIs are here: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2525256/
Thanks and sorry for the confusion. I am here to help.
Those are for the R50 R52 R53 Gen 1 as we are in the gen 1 section of the forums.
The Gen 2 KONIs are here: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2525256/
Thanks and sorry for the confusion. I am here to help.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 03-11-2016 at 04:46 AM.
#89
Thanks for the support , we love our MINI customers.
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#91
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#93
I could not wait any longer and just bought a complete set of B4's for $254 delivered. I am also going to replace all of the other components as well: bump stops, Strut mounts, dust covers etc. I got all Lemforder stuff (OEM).
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
#95
I could not wait any longer and just bought a complete set of B4's for $254 delivered. I am also going to replace all of the other components as well: bump stops, Strut mounts, dust covers etc. I got all Lemforder stuff (OEM).
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
#96
I could not wait any longer and just bought a complete set of B4's for $254 delivered. I am also going to replace all of the other components as well: bump stops, Strut mounts, dust covers etc. I got all Lemforder stuff (OEM).
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
I also picked up a set of Spring Compressors w/ case on Amazon for $38 delivered (Prime).
I am curious to see what fresh suspension feels like in combination with new LCA bushings.
It should be a fun weekend, hopefully with minimum skinned and bloody hands. I am crossing my fingers the pinch bolts come out without drama. It is a southern car, so hopes are high.
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#99
I took my time and it was about an 6 hour job, stopping for lunch and taking a test ride after I did the rears (first). Some observations:
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!
Last edited by JIM_GRAHAM; 03-31-2016 at 06:39 AM.
#100
I took my time and it was about an 6 hour job, stopping for lunch and taking a test ride after I did the rears (first). Some observations:
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!
The front dust boots and bump stops were shot.
There was NO shrooming of the top mounts, but I replaced them anyways, as I had bought them just in case.
The rear bushings and stops were fine but just discolored and I replaced them just because.
I did the rears first to get warmed up, and then went for a test ride. They were easy. No noises or squeeks, success.
On the fronts I did not take apart the ball joints like some of the videos. I just removed the pinch bolts. The existing Strut fell right out. Getting the new ones in was a different story. Huge PITA. I had to actually assemble and drive the car (15 feet) to get the struts to fully seat. The new Strut assemblies seemed to be taller (New), requiring spring compressors to shorten them to get them back in. It might have been easier to take the ball joints off, but I got them in.
Two of the JCW Strut brace bolts broke and I had to get new ones. They are special sleeved bolts. Grrrr.
I could actually move the front strut pistons in/out with my hands and they were not generating much resistance. It's no wonder my teeth were rattling when I hit bumps.
The overall ride is much better. It does not absorb the extreme harsh stuff (sport springs?), but I was not expecting a magic carpet ride for $250 bucks.
I am pleased with the ride and even more pleased that there are no squeeks or noises and I got the job done right.
The top bolts on the front struts required an Allen wrench and a deep socket that I used an adjustable wrench on (Mcgyver). I broke the bolt loose while the strut was in the car rather than fight with it laying in the driveway.
Front sway bar bolts require a box wrench and Allen wrench.
My background is a "shade tree" mechanic and I was able to complete the job in the driveway with a 1.5 ton jack and stands, along with tools I have accumulated over the years. I took pictures before I dismantled things so I could refer to them if I had an "oh ****" moment. (I had a few).
I am happy with the results; however a neighbor thought there was a bar brawl with a few Navy sailers when he heard some screaming and lots of expletives coming from my driveway at times.
Have at it and share your experience!