After my spring settled, four out of the eight or so coils are touching in the rear spring. I know that these springs are progressive but if half of the spring are already compressed does that mean I'm riding on the stiffer end of the spring rates. Seem like the front springs are noticeably softer compared to the rear. When going around turns with dips and imperfections the front end seems a bit bouncy. Also since I installed the RDR camber plates the front end is taller since the plates are thicker stock. Would the plates cause the front end to be softer since the front is about 3/8 higher with the plates? I was also thinking of replacing the hsports rear springs w/ the stock spring to get back some spring travel and to raise the rear to match the front.

 

for a true progressive spring, coils start to touch, uhh, progressively. As each coil touches, it shortens the overall functional wire length by one circumference, boosting the spring rate. you probaly have dual rate springs, wound with two areas of different pitch and it sounds like the first area is all touching, leaving you with a much shorter wire length and stiffer single rate spring.

raising or lowering the front has no impact on spring rate or adds or subracts any preload.

 

jlm,

Well now I've learned something new. What is the purpose of a dual rate spring? This sounds almost like a built-in helper spring??? I'm pretty sure the H-Sports are progressive...but then again, I've never heard of a dual rate spring.

Badass,

Those spring rates are designed to add a little rotation to your Mini's balance - remove some understeer while offering a nice ride. I'm not sure I would combine H-Sports in the front with the stock springs in the rear. I also don't know if the stock springs are linear??? On occasion, manufacturers use progressive rate springs in the rear of front drive cars and linear rates in the front. This is a bit of a handling compromise as heavy linear rear rates can cause cars with 60% or more weight over the front axle to be a bit stiff in the back end. Acura's Type-R is one example of a linear front and progressive rear layout..

The front rates @173-195 lb/in are not very aggressive. Do the tires ever lose contact with the ground? Did you install the shorter bumpstops with this kit? Do you have the stock dampers installed and if so, how many hard miles are on them?

The rear rates at 160-300lb/in actually perform some of the ride compromise characterized above. Nice.

 

Meb,
I've got about 5500 miles on the car and the springs may have about 1200 miles on them. I spoke w/ Hsport tech and mention the my rear springs were touching and he called it "dead spring" kind of similar the the helper springs you mentioned. In order to make lowering spring, the coil will have to be closer together. It makes sense to have the helper springs so that the spring will not rattle, rotate or in unlikely event the car gets airborne,the helper springs keeps the springs in the perch. Lesson learned, lowering the car by 1" means losing 1" of suspension travel.

New topic. Do coilovers have an advantage of keeping the maximum suspension travel since the springs are not shortened to lower the car but instead lower the car by lowering the spring perch.

 

>built-in helper spring???

Yes, they are partially helper springs to prevent spring rattle at full
extension. :smile:


>Do coilovers have an advantage of keeping the maximum suspension travel since the springs are not shortened to lower the car but instead lower the car by lowering the spring perch.

No not necessarily. Even if you lower using the perch the stroke gets shorter, so the piston needs to be designed to accomondate the stroke. (usually
larger diameter housing and shorter stroke).

 

Badassmini, I don't think your actually losing susp. travel with lowering springs man. Sure the car sits lower, but it's the shock that allows the travel. Mine sits even lower on the m7's, but never feels like there's a lack of travel, even on the bumpiest of roads around here.
Hope you get it worked out man, take care.

James

 

If you used the proper bumpstops that came with the HSport kit, you should have very similar stroke as stock.

If you're still on stock bumpstops then you are limiting travel by about 1"
which apparently is a big deal on this car.

 

So, if you use the bumpstops that H-sport provides with the springs the rear won't start to sag down? or is that just a property of the springs?

I'd like to get some H-sports for my car, but I don't want the rear to get lower and lower over time.

 

The sagging (actually that's a defect) or settling is caused by the springs.
Bumpstops are used to stop the piston from over compressing which could
either bottom out the car or the piston causing damage.

Ive had the HSports on my MCS for about 1.5 years or so... they aren't
sagging at all, to tell you the truth...maybe 2mm if that. usually 2-3mm is
within spec.

 

as you lower the car by lowering the bottom spring perch, you move the top of the shock rod down toward the ground and further into the shock body, reducing its available compression travel