Suspension M7 Under Strut System
#201
Originally Posted by SRTech
My M7-USS clears the Milltek resonator by about 1/8" and doesn't contact it when hot. I have installed three M7-USSs and none have rattled.
Steve
Steve
This system is awsome! Every Cabrio should have it. Peter and M7 have really turned aout a fantastic product. Tested out on the dragon. It is really worth the $$$$
#202
Originally Posted by RED FURY
Sure did, my mechanic.... Chad .... did ...the main bar contacts the CAT at times
My suspension setup now consists of the M7 USS, M7 Strut bar, Webb extreme sway bar, Koni yellows on H-Sport springs and Webb rear camber links. As good and tight as the car was in stock trim it has a entirely different feeling now. Just a flick of the steering wheel and the car responds instantly. I can’t say which part of the suspension made the car come alive as it is now because I did all of them at once but it is awesome now.
Thanks to M7, Webb Motorsports and BBM (they installed everything) for helping me take my MINI to the next level.
#203
Originally Posted by maxmini
What exhaust systems are you using? So far we have not had ANY trouble with stock systems but we have seen issues with both Miltek and the Alta cat backs. We have simple fixes for both but you need to contact us.
Randy
M7 Tuning
Randy
M7 Tuning
We talked to you and Peter in person at MOTD, PM'ed, emailed, called...still have the same problem and no solution (except being told to buy a larger insert at a hardware store). Help please?
#204
I am sorry for the perceived no solution, and I am a little confused about the
calls and emails with no answers as we did find an insert size that should solve the problem.
Peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
Size: 1/2"-13 nut insert.
www.mcmaster.com
Type > Thread Size > Compare Items
Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs
This product matches all of your selections.
Part Number: 95105A169 $10.34 per Pack of 10
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
C1008-C1010 Steel
Type
Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread Size
1/2"-13
For Material Thickness Range
.063"-.200"
Flange Diameter
.865"
Drill Size
11/16"
Body Diameter (A)
.685"
Dimension B
1.150"
Dimension C
.865"
Dimension D
.047"
Dimension E
.860"
Thread Fit
Class 2B
calls and emails with no answers as we did find an insert size that should solve the problem.
Peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
Size: 1/2"-13 nut insert.
www.mcmaster.com
Type > Thread Size > Compare Items
Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs
This product matches all of your selections.
Part Number: 95105A169 $10.34 per Pack of 10
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
C1008-C1010 Steel
Type
Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread Size
1/2"-13
For Material Thickness Range
.063"-.200"
Flange Diameter
.865"
Drill Size
11/16"
Body Diameter (A)
.685"
Dimension B
1.150"
Dimension C
.865"
Dimension D
.047"
Dimension E
.860"
Thread Fit
Class 2B
#205
#206
Finally, my USS has been installed so I'll offer these observations which may not have been covered here:
(1) In light of the problems experienced by others in trying to drill out and install the nut inserts without the benefit of a lift due to ground clearance issues, I wimped out and asked my dealer to do those (lending credence to my observation that they are mod-friendly). I'm happy to report that on January 2003 build Coopers, there were no problems with fit or the shared bolt-hole problem that has been reported as everything went together perfectly.
(2) My Cooper (a non-S) has the 16" wheels with run-flats but not the Sports Plus Suspension. Having driven base Coopers, Coopers with the + suspension as well as S's, the feel of the car is much tighter and I would say it very close to the plus option but not quite as the general compliance of the base Cooper is preserved. I've only taken it out on a few twisties and turn in seems better as the car feels like it's rotating around the driver rather than plowing ahead. Will need to give it a better workout later and report.
BTW, the tech's was seriously impressed with the fit as well as the build and finish quality of the USS as he hadn't seen one before. All-in-all, a worthwhile mod.
(1) In light of the problems experienced by others in trying to drill out and install the nut inserts without the benefit of a lift due to ground clearance issues, I wimped out and asked my dealer to do those (lending credence to my observation that they are mod-friendly). I'm happy to report that on January 2003 build Coopers, there were no problems with fit or the shared bolt-hole problem that has been reported as everything went together perfectly.
(2) My Cooper (a non-S) has the 16" wheels with run-flats but not the Sports Plus Suspension. Having driven base Coopers, Coopers with the + suspension as well as S's, the feel of the car is much tighter and I would say it very close to the plus option but not quite as the general compliance of the base Cooper is preserved. I've only taken it out on a few twisties and turn in seems better as the car feels like it's rotating around the driver rather than plowing ahead. Will need to give it a better workout later and report.
BTW, the tech's was seriously impressed with the fit as well as the build and finish quality of the USS as he hadn't seen one before. All-in-all, a worthwhile mod.
#207
#209
Originally Posted by SpiderX
in the "for what it's worth dept"..... I just emailed Peter to include this kit with my order for the DFIC and the strut bar .... now if it would stop raining/drizzling so I could go ride my bike (pedal)
#213
#214
Just out of cutiosity, how much oversteer are we talking? I autocross my Mini in street modified with the mods listed below. As it sits now I got probably too much oversteer. I'm seriously thinking about putting the stock rear bar back in. The USS sounds intriguing, but I don't want to totally goof things up.
#215
Originally Posted by Veni_Vidi_Vici
Just out of cutiosity, how much oversteer are we talking? I autocross my Mini in street modified with the mods listed below. As it sits now I got probably too much oversteer. I'm seriously thinking about putting the stock rear bar back in. The USS sounds intriguing, but I don't want to totally goof things up.
What are your camber settings, front and rear?
#216
#217
I'm running -2.2 front -1.5 rear with 1/8" toe out front, no toe rear. Hsport bars=full stiff front, full soft rear. Koni's= 3/4 firm front, 1/4 firm rear. Interestingly, the major oversteer started when I went from 205 to 225 r-comps. The oversteer is worst under braking. Trail braking=spin.
On the good side, I've developed the perfect Mini drift setup.
On the good side, I've developed the perfect Mini drift setup.
#221
#223
Nice job M7, and install tips....
I've had my USS on for 24 hours and, like the others, I'm glad I spent the money. The car tracks more accurately than before. You need less little corrections on the steering wheel when taking a bumpy corner. It makes the MINI feel more solid, like a more expensive car. I am looking forward to my next track event.
The installation was easy, just follow the instructions, and read the other posts on this thread. Don't be afraid to try this one yourself. The hardest part was getting the car up high enough on jackstands and ramps for clearance to drill the nut-sert holes. In hindsight I wish I would have paid the guy at the muffler shop $20 cash to put the car up on the lift and drill the two holes, and install the nut-serts. In my experience muffler shops like to do this sort of thing if they aren't busy, if it won't take too long, and if you pay them cash. I landed up paying $15 to rent a drill anyway because the bit supplied was 1/2" and my drill is only 3/8".
One more tip: If you have never used the nut-serts before you should know that they need a nice tight hole. The serrations in the net-sert need to dig into the hole you drilled. That's why M7 supplies the right size of drill bit. The first hole I drilled was slightly sloppy (maybe I held the drill at a bit of an angle). I was able to correct this by holding the nut-sert at a slight angle to start it (so it didn't spin) and then straighten out the nutsert as it tightened.
All in all it is a good product - beautifully made, easy install, works as advertized.
The installation was easy, just follow the instructions, and read the other posts on this thread. Don't be afraid to try this one yourself. The hardest part was getting the car up high enough on jackstands and ramps for clearance to drill the nut-sert holes. In hindsight I wish I would have paid the guy at the muffler shop $20 cash to put the car up on the lift and drill the two holes, and install the nut-serts. In my experience muffler shops like to do this sort of thing if they aren't busy, if it won't take too long, and if you pay them cash. I landed up paying $15 to rent a drill anyway because the bit supplied was 1/2" and my drill is only 3/8".
One more tip: If you have never used the nut-serts before you should know that they need a nice tight hole. The serrations in the net-sert need to dig into the hole you drilled. That's why M7 supplies the right size of drill bit. The first hole I drilled was slightly sloppy (maybe I held the drill at a bit of an angle). I was able to correct this by holding the nut-sert at a slight angle to start it (so it didn't spin) and then straighten out the nutsert as it tightened.
All in all it is a good product - beautifully made, easy install, works as advertized.
#224
Originally Posted by QED
I've had my USS on for 24 hours and, like the others, I'm glad I spent the money. The car tracks more accurately than before. You need less little corrections on the steering wheel when taking a bumpy corner. It makes the MINI feel more solid, like a more expensive car. I am looking forward to my next track event.
The installation was easy, just follow the instructions, and read the other posts on this thread. Don't be afraid to try this one yourself. The hardest part was getting the car up high enough on jackstands and ramps for clearance to drill the nut-sert holes. In hindsight I wish I would have paid the guy at the muffler shop $20 cash to put the car up on the lift and drill the two holes, and install the nut-serts. In my experience muffler shops like to do this sort of thing if they aren't busy, if it won't take too long, and if you pay them cash. I landed up paying $15 to rent a drill anyway because the bit supplied was 1/2" and my drill is only 3/8".
One more tip: If you have never used the nut-serts before you should know that they need a nice tight hole. The serrations in the net-sert need to dig into the hole you drilled. That's why M7 supplies the right size of drill bit. The first hole I drilled was slightly sloppy (maybe I held the drill at a bit of an angle). I was able to correct this by holding the nut-sert at a slight angle to start it (so it didn't spin) and then straighten out the nutsert as it tightened.
All in all it is a good product - beautifully made, easy install, works as advertized.
The installation was easy, just follow the instructions, and read the other posts on this thread. Don't be afraid to try this one yourself. The hardest part was getting the car up high enough on jackstands and ramps for clearance to drill the nut-sert holes. In hindsight I wish I would have paid the guy at the muffler shop $20 cash to put the car up on the lift and drill the two holes, and install the nut-serts. In my experience muffler shops like to do this sort of thing if they aren't busy, if it won't take too long, and if you pay them cash. I landed up paying $15 to rent a drill anyway because the bit supplied was 1/2" and my drill is only 3/8".
One more tip: If you have never used the nut-serts before you should know that they need a nice tight hole. The serrations in the net-sert need to dig into the hole you drilled. That's why M7 supplies the right size of drill bit. The first hole I drilled was slightly sloppy (maybe I held the drill at a bit of an angle). I was able to correct this by holding the nut-sert at a slight angle to start it (so it didn't spin) and then straighten out the nutsert as it tightened.
All in all it is a good product - beautifully made, easy install, works as advertized.
Randy
M7 Tuning
#225
So this is what I need to do if it keeps coming loose?
Front Brace left outside corner...
Front Brace left outside corner...
I am sorry for the perceived no solution, and I am a little confused about the
calls and emails with no answers as we did find an insert size that should solve the problem.
Peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
Size: 1/2"-13 nut insert.
www.mcmaster.com
Type > Thread Size > Compare Items
Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs
This product matches all of your selections.
Part Number: 95105A169 $10.34 per Pack of 10
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
C1008-C1010 Steel
Type
Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread Size
1/2"-13
For Material Thickness Range
.063"-.200"
Flange Diameter
.865"
Drill Size
11/16"
Body Diameter (A)
.685"
Dimension B
1.150"
Dimension C
.865"
Dimension D
.047"
Dimension E
.860"
Thread Fit
Class 2B
calls and emails with no answers as we did find an insert size that should solve the problem.
Peter
Team M7
562-608-8123
Size: 1/2"-13 nut insert.
www.mcmaster.com
Type > Thread Size > Compare Items
Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs
This product matches all of your selections.
Part Number: 95105A169 $10.34 per Pack of 10
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
C1008-C1010 Steel
Type
Knurled Rivet Nuts
Thread Size
1/2"-13
For Material Thickness Range
.063"-.200"
Flange Diameter
.865"
Drill Size
11/16"
Body Diameter (A)
.685"
Dimension B
1.150"
Dimension C
.865"
Dimension D
.047"
Dimension E
.860"
Thread Fit
Class 2B