Suspension The Definitive Alignment Settings thread
#27
For caster:
Bavarian Autosport has a front control arm bushing that is offset for increased caster. A set of those were placed in my car last week. I'm heading to the track this weekend and will post my impressions after that.
There also are (were?) KMAC plates that allow for camber and caster adjustment.
Bavarian Autosport has a front control arm bushing that is offset for increased caster. A set of those were placed in my car last week. I'm heading to the track this weekend and will post my impressions after that.
There also are (were?) KMAC plates that allow for camber and caster adjustment.
#29
Anyways, it looks like my plan for piecemeal improvement of my ride will need to be changed. First round will be new Dunlops on my ASA JH6s, Helix or IE adj. plates (dependent on cashflow), SPC LRCAs (sounds like these might not be necessary if I don't lower), M7 USS, H-Sport 19mm or 22mm effective RSB, and a good alignment. I had been planning on doing JCW springs + FSDs along with the camber plates, arms, and bars in my third round for improved ride quality, slightly better handling, and a bit of an aesthetic drop, but I might look further into the more street-able coilover options now (had PSS9s installed on a GTI and loved the handling, but became progressively more dissatisfied with the ride quality despite a good deal of tweaking with the pre-load and damper settings).
Back on topic (sorry about that), I am going to shoot for -2 camber, 1/16" toe out up front and -1 to -1.2 camber, no toe in the rear once I have the camber plates/RCAs (thanks to the sage advice offered in this and other threads by the vehicle dynamics geniuses who frequent this board). This seems like it would be a good compromise of grip to tread life given my driving style and intended use of my MINI. If I went with the 22mm RSB, it sounds like it may be prudent to add 1/16" of toe in to the rear to keep rotation more progressive / safe. Any comments or opinions on this?
Thanks again, and sorry for being so wordy
#30
#31
LOL, I hear yah. I do increasingly get the feeling that I am surrounded by idiots w/ a death wish when out on the road...
I can hardly count the number of times I have seen people playing movies on their dash mounted NAV systems while tooling down the highway at 70 MPH in the past few years
I can hardly count the number of times I have seen people playing movies on their dash mounted NAV systems while tooling down the highway at 70 MPH in the past few years
#32
Looks like I'm running more negative camber in the rear (same as the front!) than most folks here plus more rear sway bar to compensate. The only issue with this setup is trail braking can get a little squirrelly, so it's important to select rear brake pads with a relatively lower coefficient of friction thanks to the MINIs famously strong rear brake-bias.
Just goes to show how interrelated everything is, and why mods must be selected with care.
Just goes to show how interrelated everything is, and why mods must be selected with care.
#33
This is what I find kind of perplexing...My current theory is that there was a mix-up in the alignment design specs for the MCS and somehow the camber for front and rear were inadvertently swapped by some paper pusher in Munich .
Anyways, it looks like my plan for piecemeal improvement of my ride will need to be changed. First round will be new Dunlops on my ASA JH6s, ...
Back on topic (sorry about that), I am going to shoot for -2 camber, 1/16" toe out up front and -1 to -1.2 camber, no toe in the rear once I have the camber plates/RCAs (thanks to the sage advice offered in this and other threads by the vehicle dynamics geniuses who frequent this board). This seems like it would be a good compromise of grip to tread life given my driving style and intended use of my MINI. If I went with the 22mm RSB, it sounds like it may be prudent to add 1/16" of toe in to the rear to keep rotation more progressive / safe. Any comments or opinions on this?
Anyways, it looks like my plan for piecemeal improvement of my ride will need to be changed. First round will be new Dunlops on my ASA JH6s, ...
Back on topic (sorry about that), I am going to shoot for -2 camber, 1/16" toe out up front and -1 to -1.2 camber, no toe in the rear once I have the camber plates/RCAs (thanks to the sage advice offered in this and other threads by the vehicle dynamics geniuses who frequent this board). This seems like it would be a good compromise of grip to tread life given my driving style and intended use of my MINI. If I went with the 22mm RSB, it sounds like it may be prudent to add 1/16" of toe in to the rear to keep rotation more progressive / safe. Any comments or opinions on this?
Rear camber is about -1.0 to -1.6 usually and you can make this more or less with an adjustable rear control arm or a little adjustment can be made on more recent MINIs for the rear via a small adjuster. More negative camber in the rear can increase understeer so about -1 degree is OK if you have -2 in the front.
For you, 22mm RSB with softest setting and 1/16" toe in for the rear with -1 degree camber is fine.
Which Dunlop tires and what size were you going to use? Will you have more than one set of tires or not?
#34
I wanted to try to stick with one wheel/tire set for summer daily driving and sporadic autocross use as I have little available space to store another set of wheels/tires and would rather spend the money elsewhere, but we'll see. I might bundle a set of Azenis w/ 5Zigen FN01R-C wheels for dedicated motorsports use next spring, budget permitting.
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